Coupelx

10 seconds with an irwin stripped nut remover. far from something to worry about.

REGULATORS, MOUNT UP!

anything involving bearing failure in the engine is pretty high on my list.

in performance if thats what you are looking for?

i doubt theres a difference. the stock wires are already solid core.

so thats what 60hp on everyone elses dyno?

I rode a stock(just pipes) banshee and mine with a modded trans back to back yesterday and the stock banshee shifted like absolute shit. it pissed me off to no end having to rip up on the shifter

It is said they rev out faster/better because of less dwell (time spent at TDC or BDC).

lets use a 4mil for ease of reference. the pin is offset 2mm so now the piston will go down the bore 2mm more and up 2mm more. this causes the piston to come out of the top of the jug. the old way of fixing that was to put a spacer plate under the jug. the newer and more common way is to have the head cut deeper to clear the piston as it comes out of the top of the jug 2mm. The 115mm rod makes it so the rod is at less of an angle which is said to have less wear on the piston. there are some downsides in some applications but you arent likely to run into these unless doing 1 off stuff. You will use a different piston that has the wrist pin hole 5mm higher to compensate for the longer rod. the difference between a 4 and 7 is a few hp and tq. someone probably knows for sure and can post. a 7mil crank is the biggest stroke that will readily fit in a stock cylinder (which was the idea behind it). if you are going with an aftermarket cylinder you might as well jump to a 10 instead of the 7. Now on a stock stroke most including myself like the 110 rod since it tends to be a rev happy engine.

people put the word stroker in because they think it sounds cooler. kinda like saying your chevy has been punched (bored) .030 over. in reality it makes you sound like a dork.

it will make the clutch pull easier for sure but check to make sure its adjusted properly. usually the cause of shifting issues.

that would be why i can never find them. i used to run them all the time and usually got a season or better out of them. no reason at all to run a br9 plug. It will be more prone to fouling as it is a heat range colder. now if you had a real hot setup that liked to rattle when you hot lapped it, then try one out.

still hasnt responded to my call out.

fuck i hate being broke i havent blown my car up in over a year so i need this

For what snop does maybe the are the best pipe but i just have a real hard time with them being the best for anything else especially power oriented maybe andrew3160 can chime in with what he thinks of his in a drag race. my halfass ported stock stroke and r2's pretty consistently outran his FAST 4mil with PC's. he changed to shearers and we have a rematch scheduled for the end of march these pics were taken consecutively by matscss at the bhq ride.

not much harder, just need a good pair of snap ring pliers to swap the gears over.

just seems like the threads are skipping? I remember trying to locate a nut ASAP as mine had removed itself and never found anything close at a hardware store so im not sure its a standard thread. let me know if you end up needing a shaft. i have one ill send you for cheap.

your first problem is you went to walmart.

So now that i actually need these I cant find any for the 28pwks. I can find them everywhere for the big pwks. My question is what is the difference? Just longer? Different threads? The cascade store shows the same number for both carbs.

Yamabond or equivelent seems to work well.

yep. a bit a sealer doesnt hurt to lubricate and seal it.

pull the sprocket and the sleeve behind it that the seal rides on. pop seal out. reassemble in reverse order.