Coupelx

just needing the head gaksets. i hope to swap out heads this next week and realized my stash is out. since so many use coolheads i figured someone has a stack of them like i did.

need at least one for sure but a few would be nice, ive sent out or used them all. Surely someone with a coolhead has a stock of them they would like to sell

I ran the Lgn needles with t5's but had to switch to jjh needles to lean out the midrange when I went to r2's.

Its not 'supposed' to include the volume of the squish band from what ive read. the flat plate method like sprinklerman posted in that thread will give you an idea though.

I will be using the whole thing.

i never went to college and know thats a bad idea. the rest of the atv industry thinks different though.

send a pm to stevel on here. we just took some fmf fatties off his bike.

thats what i was thinking.

a few bucks for you time and shipping being that they arent usable for anything else and im not sure it will actually work for what i want. i am 90% sure it will charge fine. its not a real high winding engine either.

Something that the bike ran ok cruising around but popped under hard throttle. the one thats been laying on your shelf for years and you couldnt throw it away. Its for a permanent magnet setup on my XS650 and will just need to run a points ignition system.

Sounds like an Exclusive Advertisement for trinity

haha i think that same thing every time i see it. save the big bore kits for 4 pokers.

we need to get this guy a t shirt or something. that is some carnage like i havent seen in awhile on here!

Gravity Bleed. I do cars this way too since i rarely have someone to help me. put teflon tape on the the threads of the bleeders and then a couple inches of clear hose. put a pan under each hose and then crack the bleeders open a turn or so. Grab a beer and keep the master cylinder full. some times if its really dry pumping the MC quickly a couple times gets it started.

This will not end well and honestly if you have to ask this question, you have no business reverse engineering anything.

i like blown glass myself...

Get some pics. I am interested. The dome size is usually stamped on the top of the dome near the spark plug hole.

a glove and an impact.

exactly. while cranking PSI gives you an idea of what you need if you have known parts, you cannot just say at XXXpsi or whatever you need to run race gas. you need to take into account the dome design. a stock head at 160psi has a different octane than most off the shelf domes at 160psi. also the CC of the dome usualy doesnt take into account the squish area OR squish.

its the hub that determinds the plate count. the basket just gives it the potential.

good points.

so someone who can legitimately build a fast setup gets beat up because they were smaller than the loser of the race?

timing plate los great.

dunno, the cheetah is now in my pile of parts

we are talking about cleaning up the gouges at the bottom of the cylinder and running it if it didnt score the rest of it up.