Coupelx

I'm curious as to how a dozen orings is easier to work on then one headgasket? A stock head cut specifically to the specs of your bike is better than a cool head with off the shelf domes. I had mull engineering do mine and am very happy.

Last set of shocks i got were thrown in a box with no padding and mailed to me from canada. Nice to see that people take the time to pack stuff still.

Pre Detonation strikes again http://en.wikipedia....Engine_knocking read the whole thing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing this too. 30 seconds on google to find this.

I think alot of them get passed off as a dual rate setup like happened to me and i didnt know the difference until i sent them to matt.

I run some older TCS ZPS shocks. The purpose of the sag is to keep the tires on the ground. Like being able to turn with the hammer down in the trails which is a big plus over the stock or yfz junk. It is still used on stadium trucks i think. I talked with Matt for awhile about this. It also allows for more accurate valving because you dont have a bunch of different springs pushing out. Technology has obviously advanced since then with shocks that have this along with the multirate springs. Ride height is controlled moving the top spring perch down and sag is controlled by the spacers in the shocks similar to how you change the crossover rate on multirate setups. mine is just a duner but when i need them they always come through. land off a jump a little awkward and it sticks to the ground with no drama.

NO 2 setups are the same. Start with Google. Learn how and why it works and move on to more banshee specific searches on here.

Usually gains you the 30 MPH you need on the topend to break 100mph

They fit and look great. The clean up great because they are stainless steel. BUT they use Trinity specific orings which are failtastic and I didnt like them on a stock port banshee. It was faster with t5's. I imagine they respond well to porting though.

In before some moron says to buy shearers.

stay safe

In for the pot.

You still havent addressed if the dumps have been drilled. Just because it ran doesn't mean it ran right.

Choke works better with the throttle closed.

serious? one end of the lighting coil comes out as the yellow wire, the other end is soldered to the frame of the stator, you need to find his end and unsolder it from the frame then solder a wire to it. that wire and the previously mentioned yellow wire get connected to the 2 yellow wires of the regulator. THEN if you actually read the instructions, you will need to decide how you need to hook up the other wires based on the battery you choose to use. this matters to keep from under or overcharging the battery.

i charge actual shipping, which yes is costly to the oz.

TDR makes fiberglass replacement pedals for them.

mine runs slightly uphill too. i ride wfo all over.

I cream my pants over carbon fiber but you have 3 posts and are here whoring your page. what did you expect. Also me and alot of other people will not "Like" a page if the person feels the need to beg people to like it, if it doesnt suck we will like it. wee how that works? make up some cool shit and people will buy it, like i said i am a sucker for CF.

lets check the dates before we go digging up threads. start a new one. i bet the people in this thread havent posted in along time.

what he said. its kinda goofy the way it works but it works better than the stock shit.

pm matscss and ask nicely. it was around $200 with new bearings in the mounts on mine.

kinda disheartening for them isnt it

theres people like me that will damn near give one away. i have a couple. unfortunately for you, i wont be back home until fall.

I might have to try it too. I've tried loads of different oils and always came back to atf. Less creep, clutch lasts longer, bike shifts the best for me. Haven't tried the klotz yet though. I also run 2 full quarts to keep the ball and pushrod oiled. Been this way for years now.

I might have to check this out!