Coupelx

Very touching!

Shit thread.

Normal clutch wear leaves a black residue like that too.

Compare the keihen to the mikuni a k140 is like in the mikuni 330 range?

I know alot of people say you pay for the name but I have had no complaints about my lsr a arms.

No way that's correct.

Thanks.

In the context that you used it, you were dismissing the importance of a proper dome. As in saying a dome is a dome, when infact it much more than that. Its generalized statements like this that add to the confusion and contribute NOTHING. You are the one stuck on the extra 10hp statement which was originally yours to begin with and I simply added to it INCLUDING providing an example.

Because you are not right. You got caught and are backpedaling to try and save face. You made a bullshit statement and refuse to admit it.

Now you are grasping for straws and regurgitating my posts.

Have you tried it? Dome design has come leaps and bounds since the Banshee was designed. Its more I don't see how your point is relevant.

Domes are everything. The proper dome may not magically add HP but it can change the feel of the bike, how it transitions into power and even jetting issues(yz490). Its the icing on the cake that compliments the setup.

No rubber coated cages yet? No thanks.

Iloke plain fiberglass. haven't tried the carbon ones.

Stock cages with tdr or boysen reeds.

This is exactly why no one wants to participate in these threads. Lay your shit out however you want but don't cry on here because it runs like shit or its not what you expected.

A degree wheel is far from primitive. Sit there with your calculator all you want, there's a reason several people have said to get a degree wheel. Read the damn books!

Trolling, you're doing it right.

I've been changing one or 2 things at a time to see how they change performance. I want to learn the relationship between everything. Takes alot longer but has payed off big. Careful research and planning my next changes has resulted in a bike that goes faster every time. One thing that was repeated to me was everything in a 2 stroke is a compromise and you need to learn where to give up a little to gain alot.

The intakes seem to be a matter of opinion on a reed valve engine. I went from smallish intakes and transfer tunnels to this and gained everywhere. It is also interesting to note that I then had to jet down from a 140 to a 132 on my 28pwks. I've been told that most will like 186-188 for most all types of riding while keeping the blowdown stockish. I would first work on the width and shape to see if you can get what you are wanting. I am all for a good discussion but all the parties need to bring something to the table. I don't know about the pistons as I've never done it that way. Its mentioned in some books though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Fraggster/IMG_20120121_211302.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Fraggster/IMG_20120121_211142.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v114/Fraggster/IMG_20120121_211339.jpg

So if you have read the books why the question. I run 190/128 and have a fairly broad powerband that revs out well but its no stump puller like a stock port. It likes its rpms and custom domes got rid of the soggy bottom end and made the transition into power alot smoother. Compression and timing are fairly low not only because it runs on pump gas but to play to its strengths as a fast reving 350. I just gave younsome of what I've spent the last few years learning by application. No reinventing the wheel here.