Michael Jackson

because he has a clue what hes talkin about 300 mains seem to be what alott of people recommend for every piped bike, every condition, no matter what, air box or not, i think people just like the number 300 id ditch the lid and try some 280's, stock pilots and needle on the middle and go from there, if you leave the lid on, your main should be under 280 definitely but like the guy above me said, read the plug chop thread, everyone can just guess, only you can ride it and see do yourself a favor and run 32:1 too, you foul plugs because of your jetting, if your jetting is right, your plugs should never turn black

you will probably have trouble fitting a swingarm skidplate on there with a 45 tooth rear

its not about the tubes being wider on "cheaper" boost bottles, its about them being very top heavy and only held down by rubber intakes, after a few years of rattling/ vibrating like a mother fucker all day while riding, the stock rubber intakes will crack or split open, my friend has the evidence in his back yard, i can stick my pinky through his old intakes,

goob job flotek, i bet she rips

swingarm and carrier bearings get eatin pretty fast if you are beatin the shit out it on rough terrain, you can get the world wide or all balls ones from rockymountain for pretty damn cheap, instead of buying the whole pivot works kit everytime,

bellray gearsaver 80w gear oil, 1.7 liters for gear/clutch oil 32:1 ratio = 4 ounces of premix oil per gallon of gas, this is probably the most common ratio chain slack should be about an inch or so up and down movement when u grab it and move it by the swingarm k&n recharge kit comes with cleaner and oil for the k&n in one box, or u can buy the big jugs from rockymountainatv, thats the cheapesst way to go and they last a while br8es or b8es plugs, should be coming out tanish color after a while of riding, never black, not dark when u pull em,if they are black, or "chocolate brown" like people say, its rich, both should look the same, if you really wana get into mods and jetting , thats another thread get a clymer and good luck, the a arm will not take long to chnage, since you are throwing it out, just bash the hell out of the balljoint to get it outa the spindle, sometimes they can be a bitch and stick, but u dont need it so hit it with a big hammer

check out rockymountain, they have alot of shit on closeout sales, i got a book in the mail the other day of all their close out deals on apparel, tons of stuff, with crazy prices, huge discounts, and free shipping over $100 of course, check it out

pompous fool ! the internet is for 4 wheelers and porn, not philosophy and science ! get back on topic

i wasnt tyrin to be a dick, just tryin to make a point from both sides of the argument and im not lookin at your myspace, haha

\ theres a HUGE,,, H U G E , difference between book smart and street/common sense smart.. having a 3.8 gpa doesnt make you smart, it means you do all your work, study for your t est, and probably dont party as much as the guys with a 2.8, thats all

if your gona be a douche for no reason .... apparently your father didnt teach you how to spell, itd be kind of hard to have an intelligent conversation with a person who cant even spell the word intelligent , "what does everyone think?" and he really didnt curse that much..

holy shit, find a new "shop"

clearly theres alot more to making a fast bike than sticking a huge motor in it and calling it a day

kep an eye omn ebay, they are on there alot i sold mine on ebay for $35

the steering knuckle is part of the spindle assembly..the part that sticks off the spdindle , where the tie rod end connects, its got the 2 allen head bolts tack welded in place,

yea, a little lube is always a nice thing i tore a couple of those rubber sleeves while tryin to force them on before i realized this

just wait 5 rides, you wont have much rubber left a banshee destroys those soft split knob xcr's gncc's will hold up alot better and hook up great too still none of em last like razr or razr2's, still good tires though, good luck

just shoot a little wd40 or liquid soap on them, they should slide right on, they are a whore to get on with no lube. rubber doesnt slide well on metal dont go grinding at them with a dremel just yet..you want them to be tight, i had the same problem with RIS design ones and t5 pipes, they are a bitch to get on dry, use a little lube

wow thats fucked up,,, sealing someones sweaty,l smelly helmet, damn.. happened to me once too though, left my helmet and a pair of goggles i was borrowing from a friend, out in the woods, in the middle of nowhere, next to this little jump we built, went back to the house, came back an hour later, helmet./goggles, GONE, weirdest thing... the helmet was spray painted green and smelled like shit too, haha, dumb asses

got the stingers mixed up? i know when i first put my t5's on i didnt notice they had L and R stamped on the flange, i had em mixed up and just like you are saying with these, one sat lower than the other

yep!! looks like a bum, but goddamn, hes nuts

exit 207? damn! i know we get off exit 116 to go to coal hill

im forwarding this post to the local johny law and telling them to be on the look out for a yellow banshee with big fuckin rear tires

no way, 280 isnt lean with the lid off, alot of people just run huge main jets for some reason,usually pipe companies recommend fat jetting to cover their asses i guess? i run a 300 in the fall and winter when it gets colder ps: theres a plug chop thread posted up top i think, people can only give you guesstimates , only you will know how your bike is running

you guys are fuckin strict on english skills around here huh? poor kid.. probably scared to come back now