Michael Jackson

in my experience 4 strokes hook up WAY better in the snow, i spin the tires through 6 gear when we road ride in the snow while my friend on his daughters 250 suzsucki pulls on me

not sure if im gona go with another stock one or aftermarket, most aftermarket aare ugly, lets see what u got...

yea wheelie bar is pretty bad how long is ther swingarm to stock? dont some aftermarket swingarms have that dent there to get the linkage bolt through?> ive seen that befopr

because its burgard must ream spindles with them too http://www.burgardcycle.com/

didnt someone go to yamahas website onetime, and price out the whole exhaust system, stock, all hangers, fastners, clamps, everything, and it was around 1400 right?

get the a-arms, then flip your stock rims around and run the valves on the inside on the rear, that offset lines up about perfect with +2's so will be damn close for +3;s, then get some shocks... then worry about the axle

justfound the nuimber for worldwide bearings , they are in jersey too, gona call them tomorrow, they used to sell theirs by singles in rocky mountain, now they arnt in the new one.. they were dirt cheap and worked fine, i always bought them, like $8 each for axle bearings and like $6-7 each for swingarm , hope fully they still got em thanks for the offer on the carrier nyuk .. got any cheap decent bumpers stock or aftermarket?

good color combo, very nice job

your what? be more specific im lookin for a place to buy single bearings and seals, not the stupid kits with sleeves and dust caps and all that crap u dont need to change evertytime

where can u buy just the bearings and seals alone , by the single, rocky mountain used to sell worldwide and all balls single bearings and seals, dirt cheap, now all they have is the whole kits , wtf.. is there a generic bearing i can get from napa or soemthing? it seems so dumb to buy the whole rebuild kit everytime u just want to replace the bearings and seal, im gona send them a email and ask them wtf they did this for

soap or wd40 and they slide right on

really shouldnt put them on stock a-arms, the balljoints cant accomodate the travel of the shocks\ also the fact they are longer and make the front end sit up higher

u gota unplug the connection on the sensor that runs up to the perch, its about a foot down on the extra wire that runs up to the perch, if u dont unplug it it wont rev, other than that, just rip everything out and put ur new plate on

no they have threaded on by hand, easily , both times ive replaced them, no resistance, i thread it all the way down by hand, and hand snug it, then put the chain on, have somsone hold the brakes then tighten good with the wrench.. im fuckin cluless on whats goin on here, when it warms up a bit ill throw another one on, ill put it on with a 32mm socket tight as hell and hope for the best...

of course, bent over the nut on 2 edges, i replace the clip as well everytime i replaced the nut really theres no way for the nut to back itself off the threads, without it bending through the tabs on the clip which of course cant spin too because its held in place by the splines on the shaft, im clueless here...im not 100% sure yet because i havnt taken it apart, but from the way the nut is moving on the threaded shaft, how only one side has play in it, would tell me the threads are stripped, but if the threads on the shaft had slop in them wouldnt i notice from the get-go? when i put a new one on it is snug as can be and tight as hell, im clueless here.. i know using an adjustable isnt the right tool, but i snugged it pretty dam tight, and like speedy said they come from yamaha hand tight... hell my friend used to ride his banshee with his hand tight with play in it for years and never had a problem

so if this is correct what ur saying about snugging it a bit, why the hell would mine be coming off? when i first put it on, its tight as can be, there is no slop in the threads, 8 months later the threads on the nut are all chewed up, again, but the threads on the shaft are fine, the nut must be softer metal, no ?

haha i know i know,,, i actually devised a pretty decent plan on how to tighten it, i take the stator cover partially off (with the wrong size phillips screwdriver hense the stator cover bolts i ordered from u last week) i get it all on and put together by hand, tighten it down by hand, put the chain back on, have someone sit on it and hold the brakes, and tighten the shit out of it, i have an old adjustable that somewhat fits in there, but your right, its still nigger rigged, i will buy a socket

its an 03 , ive had it since new and only replaced the nut 2 times, i know im incorrect in doing so,but im tightening with a large adjustable wrench, i dont remeber what ft lb's they recommended the first time i looked, but it wasnt alot, so i figured i could get away with that, guess not? i dont own an impact gun or welder, i have some friend at the local garage though and when i replace this one ill drive down and have them use an impact gun on it for me , should i go by manual's torque specs?

yep i took a bald pair of razr 2's and compared them with a brand new set of holeshot gncc's, same size, and both 6 ply, the bald razr 2's are noticeibly heavier just picking them up and down , than the gncc's that havnt even been used yet and yea all the razrs could use a little wider spacing to help them bite better definitely

k yea your right, my bad, just went outsidee and got the extra one still in yamaha bag, definitly steal, but they are always shiny and dont rust, are they stainless? and if so, stainless is soft isnt it? what about the rest of my questions , what could be causing this? i think i am installing them 100% correct... i dont mind buying one a year at $5, but thats not the point, wtf is goin on here?!

sorry i dont have a cool signature pic with my 4 wheeler and my mods list heres a pic for u loco,

yes u dumb ass... ive posted pics of it several times :kiss: have also met and/or rode with several people from this site

hahah this happened to me up in the hills of PA, was dark out, end of the night, stopped to talk, and look down to start her up and its gone,, haha.. luckilly i stopped at the top of the hills so i just pop started it back down and rode back to the truck

few questions.. why is the front sprocket nut made of aluminum? it stripped once last summer while riding and it popped off and ended my day, so i bought a few from yamaha and put them in the toolbox now im out riding today a bit and notice the front sprocvket has a bit of play when i stopped, but only on the left side i can move it in and out with my fingers, like the threads are stripped again partially, i just replaced it this summer., whaty could cause this? i replace the metal tab each time, bend over 2 corners, make sure the big nut is very snug, i have never used locktite on it though.. i know its about time for a new chain, but could side to side play in a chain put pressure on that nut and force the soft alum to strip on the steal threads? i havnt taken it apart yet , its too fuckin cold to be playin with that shit..but my guess is the nut is stripped again, i got a couple so im not worried, but wtf could be causing this?

15 degrees i doubt it ive heard of people testing it with temp gauges and seeing a drop of maybe 5 or less degrees i use it.. i dont know why. but i do, its also biodegradable and non toxic and all that, so it wont kill your pets or anything