rubberneck

first off to the original poster, He owned you bitches. Now for the serious part. Blastard are you kidding me man? thats fucked calling him a thief over some shit like that, sound like you didnt even know the whole story.

Never mind these guys, they are tards, just call trinitiy like i told you. Order the 4mm cheetah, ask for stage 4 everything. There is a real big Trinity Racing fan on here from the Windycity just tell them he recomended them and they will hook you up with the fastest motor you have ever seen.

kind of, ive heard of guys pulling the old ones, then cutting the outside lip off the new ones and pushing them in with some sealant on the outside to stick them to the cases, but i would consider this only as a patch to get through a trip or something. It is entirely too easy to split the cases and do it right. Not to mention you can then inspect everything and replace the worn parts. It is entirely possible that the whole reason you need new seals is the crank is out of true, or bearings are taking a shit, so just sticking new seals in isnt going to solve anything. Just do it right the first time and be done.

you can do post mounts in the fender brackets like mentioned, or you could also do handlebar mounts. I find hanlebar mounts to be much more usefull if you are ok with the look

make sure the dissengagement arm is in good shape too. When they get old the corner starts to round off and you dont get adequate travel.

shit man i completely forgot to look for my old RS when i got home this morning, i will make a note and try to find it tomorrow.

I have the prodesign drain plate on my bike and the Cascade polished cover fits with no problems.

no sweat glad it helped

here you go http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf Yes you will need to put in a regulator rectifier. I believe that a battery is not required but i know that there was a recent post on here that they tried without battery and experienced som flickering at low rpm with LED lights. So you may want to just start with adding a battery. Another advantage is you can run the lights while parked with bike off. They also have detailed steps on floating ground on stator in case you need more reference materials for that. As far as hooking up the lights, if it was me i would wire in a relay and hook the power for the relay directly to the battery, then just use your switch to trigger the relay

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/54/TruckBedRails http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/18/AnchorPlates These are the ones you want man. clean and strong easy to use. My dad has the full length rails on the inside of the bedrails and has a couple of the single point anchors in the middle of the bed and they are the shit. If you dont want to do the rail system just put one of the single anchors in each corner of the bottom of the bed. The mount isnt much higher than the rib in the bed, so when you have the anchors out they are not in the way at all. I have a similar system called "slide n lock" but they are a pain in the ass to move and you have to put the anchors in from the end and slide them where you want them.

Glad i could help. Pretty much just ask for stage IV everything and you will be good to go

that is a whole lot of tire

The best advice i can give a guy like yourself is to call Trinity Racing Ask for a 4MM cheetah

shearef oof, shearer in frame, Cpi inframe and toomey t5

This thread just got better

No worries, i was surprised too, but the bike wanted what it wanted. When i had a uni filter in the stock box with toomey vents in in, i ran 290 mains. Exact condition at that time for the jetting specs i listed above were as follows. T5 pipes timing advanced 4 degrees, stock reeds and porting, stock head. float levels set to factory spec and carbs synched. Pismo Beach (elevation 0)mid 60 degree temps. Yes clip was up (needles dropped) one notch from middle position. I needed to do that as when i went to the larger main it developed a sllight bog right before the pipe would come on. Bike ran like a raped ape for the 4 days we were there including many blasts down the drag strip pounding on my buddies LTR and my brother in laws 660 craptor. Next trip out 1st day crank separated and that led to a complete overhaul. Funny thing is my buddy put a pipe on the LTR thinking he would kick my ass next trip out, but he didnt know that the overhaul includied having jeff at FAST do a duneport. Talk about waking that little motor up He was really pissed, i told him i didnt change anything and that the pipe he got must have caused him to lose power

I agree with this. First shee i owned, i lost a rod to a separated crank and it wiped out the cylinder with it. 2nd shee separated a crank and luckily didnt ruin anything except a trip. Both bikes had just bolt ons on them nothing internal. Stock heads with stock compression. I swore i would never own another shee without pulling it down and welding the crank. Last shee i bought ran great but i pulled it down anyway only to find excessive rod big end clearance. For what it costs and the little amount of work it takes, I would have the crank welded for sure. If nothing else when you do the top end take a good look at the big end of the rods and measure the side clearance and make sure its in spec and nothing is moving.

Every motor is different, but with 310s my bike would fall flat on its face as soon as it came on the pipe. I ran 290 mains with t5s and the foam filter in the stock box with vents. When i put the K&Ns on i originally went up to 310s and it was way lean on top, straight to 330s and it ran great. Plug chop looked a bit light, so i went up to 340s and plug chop confirmed it was spot on. I couldnt believe that the pods made that much difference but they did. Your results may vary. I did not find the t5s to need a fatter pilot. Interesting how everybodys bike like different things

Im not sure i follow, but if you are talking about the compression, generally speaking increasing compression wont require rejetting. Now if you are talking about atmospheric pressure then basically you are looking at about a 1 jet size change for every 2000 feet you go up or down. Higher altitude leaner jetting, richer as you get closer to sea level You said you are 500-1000 feet above sea level, so the jetting i listed will get you very close. As far as synching the carbs, yes it is very important to have everything clean and carbs synched to get good performance

My bike when stock porting and t5s with pods at sea level: 340 mains, 25 pilots stock needle 1 notch lean from center. start with airscrews 1.5 turns out.

Matt that looks good, i may just be ditching the HIDs and strictly running your lights.

I guess it depends on what you will be doing with the bike. If you are looking to build a trail rider, then probably not the way to go unless you acquire all the pieces to make the pv's operate. If you get the parts it will be kick ass. If you are looking for a hot runner and dont care that much about bottom end give them a try. A simple bore wont cost you that much on the 1 side. get some pistons and get her ready to run, lock them open and give them a try, im telling you you will be surprised how well it will run.

You can lock them fully open and the bike will run very well, just not have a whole lot of bottom end. My buddy has had his this way for years and it surprises a lot of people how well it runs

The religeon LOL thread is more productive than this one.

I wouldnt believe that shit for a minute. They never give anything back once they take it, they just keep taking more. So as it wouldnt surprise me if they closed buttercup good luck getting any of the closed area back. Fucking tree huggers. I wish they would all die in a fire and take the fucking politicians with them. Then we could cook snowy plovers, desert tortoises and spotted owls over their ashes.