rubberneck

Yes you need a press. The type of press depends on what you are doing. I use progressive presses for reloading pistol, shotgun and non precision long gun. For my precision stuff, i still mostly single stage load. It takes longer but im not loading volumes and volumes of rounds and i feel i get a better final product. Single stage reloading is also much easier to do when you are working up a load or experimenting with different loads. Here is the thing with reloading, you absolutely can save a ton of money IF you shoot a lot. For reference, i can load FMJ 223 for about 11 cents a round, and i load varmint loads for about 25 cents a piece. Thats paying retail for the components. Compare that to what you pay in the store. I also swage my own rifle bullets and cast my own lead pistol bullets. Its a hobby and i enjoy it, so the cost of the equipment is factored into that for me. And i dont consider the cost for my time because again its a hobby. Thats why i stated earlier that if the motivator to reload is money, just quit before you start. It can takes thousands and thousands of rounds to recover the initial cost of all the reloading equipment. There are other reasons to reload, it all depends on how serious you are. Accuracy is a big one. My personal opinion it doesnt matter much in a handgun, but in a rifle the difference can be amazing. The other thing is availability. I can buy and store components to load tens of thousands of rounds. When there is a panic buy like has been going on the last 8 months or so, i dont have to freak out like everybody else. When i need ammo i just go make it. Attention to detail is key and if you fuck up you will blow shit up. Ive seen it done, thank god ive never done it.

I dont disagree with anything that has been said really but before we send him out buying books and components lets figure out what his goal is and what he has. A lot of people think its a good idea to reload and then quickly find out that unless you shoot a lot you arent going to save a dime. Trust me, its as bad as a banshee, today some free components next thing you know you turn around and you have 6 presses set up and about a billion different components and tools. He got some free stuff but it doesnt mean any of it is any good to him and may end up costing him a bunch of money. I absolutely agree that if you know somebody who reloads, some hands on experience is worth its weight in gold.

need more info. what are you reloading, what other equipment do you have. I have used imr3031 in .308 win a lot. do you have all the other components? what weight bullets, what weapon

im near modesto

If its cast steel, the above welding rod will weld it without preheating. If it was cast iron you should use MG200. However i dont think its cast iron. I dont have my bike here to throw a magnet on it to find out

i had a problem several years ago where my new motor just felt flat. It wasnt anything really special just a 4mil cub. It ran OK and everything seemed to check out but it just didnt feel like it pulled like it should on top. I was asking questions about timing curves for my dyna as i wondered if it could be a timing issue. A member sent me a pm and told me to get rid of the dyna. I asked if i should i just put it on the stock curve. He told me no, that when he dyno tested the dyna on his DMX (I believe it was an 18 dmx) they had issues as well. Stock curve on dyna to stock CDI lost 8 hp. I put the stock CDI on and then sent him a response of thank you. Something just wasnt right with the dyna bike ran better with the stocker.

as of april it was still 40 bucks for a week. not sure where its going

http://www.messerwelding.com/Product%20PDFs/by%20part/MG%20600.pdf#page=1&zoom=auto,0,800 Anytime i have a steel that i dont really know exactly what it is, i use this stuff. Go to your local welding supply place and ask about it. I have had great luck with this stuff. You can get it stick or tig. I have mostly used it TIG but have used the stick stuff a couple times to extract bolts broken off down inside a hole.

ffs

MG600 welding rod

It all depends on what your local CHP office is like. I did this in 2009 and it was a fucking nightmare. took me months to get it straight as my CHP only does it by appointment and was about 6 weeks out.. Long story short it was a pain in the ass for me and took a couple of appointments because he wasnt satisfied with the number of recepts i had brought the first time. Hint* take the steel receipts and any and all parts receipts you have in. I didnt take receipts for the steel in the frame and he made me come back. Maybe he was just being a dick i dont know but dont take a chance. Some guys have told me they breezed right through the process. #1 make absolutely sure the cases are not stolen or they will keep the whole bike when you take it down there. First thing you do is go to the DMV to start the process. You will need to tell them you built a custom vehicle and need to start the process to get a VIN and registration. You will then take that paperwork along with all your receipts and the assembled bike to the CHP. If they are happy with everything they will put a VIN sticker on it. If hes cool he will kind of hide it as its a big ass blue sticker. My guy was a dick and stuck it right in the side of the frame under the tank where it couldnt be more visible then proceded to stamp the witness marks on all 4 sides of the sticker chipping the powder coat. Guess what you cant have the bike recoated ever or you will lose your vin then need to deal with getting that replace. After you get the VIN you take the paperwork back to the DMV and it will get registered as a 2013 special construct vehicle and you will be issued a green sticker. Hint*2 take the bike with you to DMV. When i got there they wanted to know where my brake and light inspection and smog certificate was. I told them its an offroad vehicle only and it doesnt need that. The lady said to me i have no way to verify that. At that point i told her to go look at it as it was in the back of the truck. The fat ass didnt want to but the supervisor made her. Honestly i will never fucking do it again, total red tape bullshit nightmare. There are other ways if you think about it

In this case hippy is code for broke ass, inconsiderate mexican riding a 4 poke most of the time.

Whatever trailer queen. My R gets more hours in one day than your bike will see in a lifetime

so does the ltr geometry suck? What about the YFZR. please show me 1 single professional mx racer that doesnt run a stabilizer.

Precision is the best stabilizer on the market but they do not make a bracket for a banshee, you would need to customize one. If you needed to save some coin CCP on ebay is a precision clone and a lot of the 4 poke guys swear by them.. I believe the only thing that will bolt up are the "stick" style stabilizers. I keep saying im going to put a precision on the banshee just havent done it. After having one on my yfzr ill never ride a bike without one again.

Holy shit this thread just ran clean off the rails.

did you get your bike together? where are the pics? Cant wait to see it.

Please define full blown, im trying to figure out if my computer is at risk

those are part of the grab bar unless you are referring to the cascade style mentioned above.

The other thing i would consider before running out and buying comp cut STUs or tripple buffed haulers is terrain. If you only ride in clean soft sand the lighter the tire the better period. The performace difference between the super light tires and standard issue are significant imho. However a lot of the places i ride arent really friendly to a super thin light tire. So for a duner tire i stick to regular or bead to bead buffed haulers but not the super lights. I would think the exact same would apply to the STU tires. I havent run STU on a quad but have on a car and the car tires were rediculously light. You could see cords showing in areas. Awesome yes, durable, maybe not so much. just something to think about.

It used to be a very common practice to cut sand car tires back before the high horsepower long travel cars came to be. A little extra flex and traction doesnt matter so much when you have 1000hp like it did when you had 100. They used to call it a play cut if they just trimmed the paddles like matt described and a "comp" cut if they cut between the tires. You used to be able to order them straight from stu that way. Dont know about now, but the price was pretty significantly different for a play cut vs comp cut. I dont think a comp cut is something you would be able to do well at home. One slip and it goes from a comp cut tire to a ruined tire.

ditch the PC pipes, try some shearers or CPIs then report back

Fuck it, cant stand it. I always wanted one. If bigbucks doesnt take it, I got dibs. PM me and i will send cashiers check.

hahahhaaa if mccoy is a hack what does that say for everybody else? Id let that "hack" build me motors any day.

your scrawny ass is going to look funny wearing a flat bill hat. You need to get some more tattoos and put about 14 inches of lift on that shit bag truck so you will fit in