rubberneck

Wilson combat, Ed brown, or STI would be my choices.

I carried a Foxx for a while. bang for the buck they arent bad and they ship very quickly. My biggest complaint about hybrids is reholstering they can be a pain in the ass expecially when they get old and the leather gets too compliant. they are also fucking huge. Im a bigger dude and the g19 hybrid from foxx wraps from my back pocket all the way around to my front pocket. That mother fucker must wrap clear around your skinny ass juan.

Ive not shot a SAR

You'll love it. I carry at 3-4 oclock but usually carry a G19. I gave the 42 to my dad after about 3-400 rounds because he really wanted it and i wasnt carrying it. I just feel better having the shield in 9mm. May grab a G43 but the shield has been working so well hard to justify. There are some good 380 ammo choices specifically for the g42 because it will handle hotter ammo than most 380s. Precision one makes a 42 loading using 95gr XTPs and the fiocchi extrema with the 95gr XTPs are supposed to perform great

I like the 42 at first i was kind of cold to it. Its pretty big for a 380 so it doesnt really work for a pocket gun imo but definitely hides well in a holster. The thing about the extra size though is its very shootable. It also eats up just about every ammo ive thrown through it and not very many 380s i have shot are that way. I think you will dig it.

The shield is a great gun in 9mm, I carry one all the time if im not carrying my glock 19 and sometimes as a back up to my 19. Not a big fan of 40 in the shield but honestly 200 bucks is a great deal so you really cant lose. You could flip it if you dont like it. As far as holsters i am a fan of kydex. JM custom kydex, NSR tactical, Greenforce tactical, Omega holsters are some i use regularly. There are a million kydex benders out there. I prefer "pull the dot" soft loops or hard loops on my holsters. I do not like clips of any sort on a holster as they always work their way off the belt if you actually beat on your equipment. The last thing you want is to pull the gun and the holster comes with it.

An original owner bike from 92 in mint condition is an absolute steal at 2500 imho.

I think for the money that is the way to go. A couple of my buddies run Kodiaks as their tow rigs. My only concern with that set up is im trying to fly under the radar as far as highway patrol goes. My trailers are both too heavy to legally tow with a normal class C licence. I do not have a classA licence and have no intention on getting one and its hard to fly under the radar with a big tow rig. They scream overweight. With a de-badged 450 it would look no different than a normal f350 to the popo.

And of course there is this

using the bowl drains is obviously the ideal way to drain carbs but honestly im usually too lazy. On the last ride of a trip ill usually shut the fuel off about 50 yards from camp and just cruise in. Bike usually will idle a short bit then die. I dont try to keep restarting it to get every little bit out and have never had a problem with a gummed up carb bowl. As far as doing damage to bottom end i have no concerns. My 250R has the original 86 bottom end in it still. If you have ever pulled one of these things apart you will see a pretty decent amount of oil sitting in the bottom end. At least i always have.

Its those wide ass hips that will get me in trouble. A single wheel truck fills the spaces. Parking in the oversized lot is not an option for me. Its in the back of the hospital and basically ignored by security. Thing would be stolen or vandalized inside a week gauranteed. Fucking ghetto ass town. Just glad i dont live there anymore.

Yeah im not sure what is available gearing wise, havent even gotten that serious. That doesnt concern me as much as just the hassle of driving a damn truck thats 23 feet long and wide as fuck. I have to park in a parking structure at work, that is what i think will drive me batshit crazy.

No doubt, the question is not whether ill love the 450 for towing, its how much will i hate it for daily driving. I dont tow my 5th wheel a whole lot as i dont seem to be camping or riding much anymore. When i haul my gooseneck its usually only from farm to farm (less than 20 miles) and not all that often really. So the question is will the benefit outweigh the pain in the ass. I guess if i was a baller id get a 1/2 ton for daily and then a dedicated tow rig but fuck all that wasted monies.

I rebuilt it myself so i had about 1500+/- in parts/fluids incidentals in it. If nothing is broken you would have about 800 to 1000 in rebuild parts depending on supplier plus labor. I replaced all the bearings, all the synchros, the 6th gear synchro blocker as well as 6th gear itself. I also put all new thrust washers and some small parts in it. The fluid alone is anywhere from 13 to 22 bucks a quart depending on where you buy it. Personally i will only run the mopar fluid or pennzoil synchromesh (mopar is rebranded synchromesh BTW) and can be had for about 1/2 what the dealer charges. You can get the synchromesh off amazon for about 12.99/qt. Ive seen rebuilt units from 2600 to 4000. The cheaper units make me leary, i have a feeling their idea of a rebuilt is simply to throw synchros and the roller bearings in it and throw it back together. Most "rebuilt kits" dont come with the needle bearings or small parts. Changing the fluid is a very good idea as is overfilling by at least a quart. The synchros in that transmission are steel with a bronze lining sort of like a metalic clutch material. When they fail that material runs free through that trans as there is no filter. Unfortunately there are some oil passages in the input, main and countershafts that direct oil to various bearings. They can be clogged by that synchro material (a couple of mine were) so like i said earlier if you start to hear any noise rebuilt it sooner rather than later so you dont grenade anything. I really put mine off too long but luckily did it before there was anything catastrophic. You could see a couple of the bearings were showing signs of heat from lack of lubrication. AS far as other upgrades to the truck the achilles heel has always been failed lift pumps. There are a bazzillion solutions but monitoring fuel pressure should really be considered mandatory for that model year. You dont want to starve that injection pump of fuel. Trans install on that truck being 2wd is a piece of cake once you get yours rebuilt. Couple hours in and out. Id probably put a rear main and a clutch in it while you have it out for sure. If you plan on adding power get an upgraded clutch. The stock unit really wont hold shit for power.

I dont want to jump ship but ford is the only 1 of the 3 that you can get a bed from the factory on a 450/4500 class truck. Id like the heavier truck for when im towing but do not want to deal with the flat bed bullshit. Still really on the fence on if its worth it but who knows. My opinion changes daily.

That could happen anyway. You never know

Nice, i just rebuilt my NV5600. If it starts making any noise go through it sooner rather than later. They have a habit of wiping out the rear mainshaft bearing and breaking 6th gear when towed heavy. You can help prevent the former by changing oil and overfilling by a quart when you refill. Fill that last quart through the shift tower.

I cant answer as ive never tried. i believe my dune port motor was 195/130. I checked but its been about 7 years and im not positive. i do have a serval top end sitting around i had planned on throwing on but just never have and at this point most likely never will.

I prefer my cpi over my shearers but have never tried snipers. If i was only racing i probably would have stuck with the shearer. They pull harder at the top but i felt the cpi were a much better all around pipe. The cpi were way better if you had to get out of the throttle and then get back in it. With the shearers it seemed llike once you come off the power you are clutching or down shifting to get anything back. I ran them on a 421 cub and 2 different 4 mill dune ported motors

http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/ATV.aspx Should be able to confirm any part numbers you will need through there

personally id go back with the forged wisecos like you had. Its always a good idea to have the pistons on hand for whoever is boring the cylinders so they can get the clearances correct. sure there are plenty of guys out there that can bore and fit pistons to your cylinders your friend might do great work we cant answer that. Like mentioned the ports need to be chamfered correctly or you will catch a ring know the guys here do it all the time and do it well.

what are the markings on the side of the rods

ouch that piston is trash, i think you found the reason for your low compression lol

no doubt thats why i mentioned assuming there is no spacer plate. the problem here is we are totally guessing without detailed pics and more information.

i generally find i like to have lubrication anytime im putting parts into parts. just sayin