Whitbread

You'll need 1 rectifier for each set of windings if you have a dual output stator. Thats why I always recommend a single 200W output unit. Much easier to wire. Heres a good rectifier. If you go led, you'll only need one rectifier as 100w of led is close to painful brightness. 20W of good led ights were more than twice as bright as 60W of halogen. The only downside to LED is the initial cost. They've come down quite a bit, but still aren't super cheap. In the lighting industry, you truly get what you pay for. Resist the $20 ebay led lights at all costs. My recommendations are http://www.trailtech.net/lighting/led/60mm-led http://www.trailtech.net/lighting/led/70mm-led http://www.visionxusa.com/product/led-lights/solstice-solo-prime/ http://www.visionxusa.com/product/automotive/solstice-solo/ - I had two of these originally and they were more than twice as bright as the 60W halogens they replaced. Now I have them on my bars with these mounted in stock location. The fleabay lightbars seem to work decently if you dont mind the look. I much prefer round lights on a banshee myself.

70W worth of led light > 70W worth of halogen.

Hey now! Thems' fightin' words! Thanks, the shroud is just a Maier one from ebay. I think it was around $65. They're the only ones that make a white one.

Here's a clearer shot with the bike on the rack. Had to take handlebars loose to get it on the shelf that was open without emptying shelf above to raise it haha.

Exactly. I've gotten so sick of my shop I've had to just shut the door and leave for a week and do something completely unrelated. Deadlines and shitty customers ruin hobby based business fun like there's no tomorrow.

This was before I made the mount for the little solstice lights on my bars. The two of them sit on the front side of my bars, you get the idea. I bought the light cannons new but open box on ebay for $300 shipped. When I get the bike off the pallet rack in a couple weeks I'll snap a better, non fuzzy picture. A arms are black now too instead of multi color for the nit pickers here.

Well, Mattoon slacked beyond belief on making the reed cage adapters, so I sent them a label last night to ship the parts I had there down to Tony at Tdr and He's going to cut them on his mill. Then I Just Need To Work With JD and get a bolt in ecu plate, coil plate, and battery box worked out. If all goes half ass to plan I'm targeting may/June for a final prototype Setup.

For replacing your 7" hids, give a serious look at the vision x light cannons. I have the 4.5" 25 watt ones mounted in stock location and they are plain silly bright and throw father than I can clearly see to. The building is about 200 yards away for reference. This is 2 25 watt light cannons with just clear covers (10° spot beams) and two 10 watt vision x solstice leds (one spot, one euro) on the bars.

No shit, very glad I went the microsquirt route. I almost bought a pair of smartcarbs, but I really wanted the ability to switch from E85 to gas easily. APT said they hadn't done any testing with alcohol based fuels so I was on my own there. So now with efi and flex fuel sensor I can dump whatever in the tank and don't have to do a damn thing.

Devcon 10610 aluminum putty is some serious shit. A friend of mine works at a honda car engine plant, whenever they have porosity in a water jacket casting, they use that stuff to seal it up and send it out the door. For them to gamble warranty money on a motor job, it has to be good.

Why couldn't you have had this a few months back? I would've went 10 instead of 4. Oh well, another day!

I extended my stem 1.5" and then have the fatbar adapters that raise it a little bit more. My flexx bars still touch ever so slightly at full forced lock, but any normal bar that isn't so wide at the bottom should clear fine with just 1.5".

Yup, clarke over IMS any day. Quality is perfect. You'll need a bar riser with either. 100% worth it.

I've ridden wellsvile many times! Rolled the banshee there at least twice. The hills there are no joke; everything for long moderate rocky climbs, steep rocky/rutted stuff, to straight up a wall type shit. As special said, the "regulars" there are a special breed. The vw-based dune buggy things that run out there are fucking nuts also.

I put them up for $350 because the one needed a light hone and new piston and I just wanted to get rid of them. Didn't get a single offer in over a month so I passed them to a buddy for stupid cheap. Learning experiences are worth their weight in gold. As soon as I get a damn sleeve and pair of domes the 427cc pv t rex will be ripping anyway.

Fuuuuuuuuuck that. As others have said, not worth the time and money if you're paying someone to do it. After doing mine, I'll never do another set. Without welding, there is no way you can get another port of any size in there. The alum on the outside of the sleeve was only 3/16" thick at most before I welded. I ended up damn near giving away my triple ported stockers away to a friend as no one here wanted them for $350. Just buy the athenas or wampus cub/servals and crinkle powerdercoat them, then hit some mud. No one will be able to tell.

It makes tuning ANY setup a snap. With live WB 02 readings/data logging, you can see EXACTLY what's going on. Once you tune it, no matter what elevation or temperature, it fires up easy and runs perfect. The bike will idle all day at 14:1 and never load up. Wire in a flex fuel sensor like I did and then you can run E85/methanol or gas at any time and the ecu will switch parameters automatically. Big thing for drag guys is boost suddenly becomes easy to tune (as has been pointed out). You no longer have to deal with finicky blow through setups that only really seem to run good at idle or WFO. Need more or less fuel somewhere? 30 seconds with a laptop and done. Want more timing until 7500rpm and pull some at 9500rpm? 30 seconds and done. Soooo much easier. My new motor is being built for E85, but with the flex fuel sensor feedback the ecu will pull timing back to where it won't detonate on pump gas. Put e85 in and the beast will wake the fuck up!

Son of a bitch! I totally forgot about that. Anyone here know someone at mattoon? They've been "next in line" for a solid 4-6 months now haha.

^ What he said. Go see Jerry at Chesterfield Engines. Tell him volkswagen kurt sent you and you need these motherfuckers honed in a timely manner. He's a goofy SOB, but he's an old timer and has forgotten more than most of us know. I'm in there a few days a week usually so I can harass him if I see them sitting around for more than a day or two.

Look up my thread in the images section.

It amazes me to go through all that effort to exactly copy the oem cylinders. Why not AT LEAST put pipe plugs in the bottom of the coolant jackets like cp's? Or cast triple exhaust ports in, but leave the timings stock to start with. Maybe even cast them as a monoblock to allow for more transfer area in the center 2. From a casting standpoint, those would've been hardly any additional work if you were making new molds/machining programs from scratch.

I stopped counting at 30. Not doing it again.

I'll hopefully have my new sleeve in the next 7-10 days so I'll bore and hone the cylinders then and see where we stand on timings and get with you. Been stuck at a standstill otherwise....

Boost is easy with any of the options as long as you run a map sensor. On pricing, I'm still waiting on mattoon to give me pricing on the the adapters. I'm giving them one more week and if they don't at least get me a quote, I'm going to ask for my parts back and give them to a local CNC shop. Getting tired of waiting. As for stuff to read up on, go to msextra.com and start reading the manuals on ms2 and micro squirt. I prefer the ms2 code/operating system over micro squirt (you can run a few different code options in the micro squirt ecu).

Ahahahahahhahaha. Apparently he's still butt hurt and feels $140 worth of jets and needles plus a decent K&N, and a free carb & manifold for $75 shipped still isn't a good deal. No, the carb top and choke aren't perfect, but they work just fine. There's a reason everything in the pic was cheap. Choke knob just doesn't stay clicked up and cap has some devcon epoxy on the cable seat. My bike ran just fine with carb as is. Don't know what he's talking about for the cable adjuster. Motion pro cable was only 6 months old. At least it gave me a good laugh sitting on the can at work.