Whitbread

A bunch of my buddies just told me that theres a big racing event going on out there memorial weekend. I haven't looked into the details yet myself, they all just want to see if my banshee can run 11's. Do you happen to know the lapeer dragway's website or a person to contact for official info? If i can get it running and find a set of bald tires to put on (poor man's slicks), i'll definitely be out there. Even if I don't get it turboed in time, i'll still try to take it out there with the normal setup on there.

I'm in the process of building a turbo banshee right now. I'm going to try blow thru single carb for now and eventually will be going with EFI from Gigot Racing regardless if i get the carb tuned or not. The motor is far from stock internally though so i cant imagine a stocker would last long if boosted. I posted a thread on here about it but planet sand lets you post bigger pics so i've updated that post more http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...ge/1#Post585248 . Hopefully within 3 weeks max it will be running. I'm trying to make it to the memorial weekend drag racing at Lapeer Dragway in MI.

I'd go for the single carb setup. If you don't do all out drag racing, you'll probably like it, i love mine. For woods/trail riding, the benefits are phenomenal. See if you can find someone in your area with one to take a ride on before you make a decision. If you do go that route, just get a big old K&N clamp on with an outerwear and watch the water. And yeah, i've never had good luck with anything outside of just parts from vito's, and thats going into their shop in person. I've found Tech-Care Suspension on M59 in Waterford, MI and Magic Racing on Old Van Dyke in Shelby Township, MI to be two much more knowledgeable places in the area.

I agree with bigboybanshee, get your stock jugs ported by a reputable builder with a 4 mil crank, +4 timing, some mid range pipes (PTR or similar) and a 34 or 35mm single carb kit and you'll have a killer cross country machine.

So much for a barnett kevlar clutch, it went out on 4/20 an hour into my ride, and the basket is trash, so its definitely time for a lockup and better basket. Hopefully i'll have a chance to machine the clutch cover before too long.

The 4" diameter muffler looks a bit out of place on the banshee, but it was what i had laying around so it worked for me.

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Ok, so i finally got a better camera and heres some pics. I still haven't received the oil pump yet though . I still have to source a BOV, finish the filter piping, and mount the oil tank but its done other than that for fabrication. The muffler is made from 4" truck exhaust tubing with a 2" core thats all drilled out with fiberglass packing and a metal screen for a spark arrestor (michigan law) and it works incredibly well, its way quieter than the pro circuits. Sorry about the small pics, i dont know how else to post them bigger on here and still maintain the quality.

See if you can borrow a friend's flywheel. When the magnets inside fracture, they can do all sorts of weird things like what you describe. Also make sure none of the wires coming off the stator have rubbed through on the flywheel.

Once again, sorry for the shitty pics, i'm gonna try to steal a friends camera this weekend, my good one got intimate with a bucket of water and hasn't worked since. And Mullet Man, it is actually a water cooled turbo, i just haven't decided if i'm going to hook up the water lines yet. Since it realistically wont see any hotter than 170 or so during a hard ride, and the coolant temp would be right around there anyway, i'm not so sure if it would be more than just some more hoses running around.

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I figured i'd post a few pics of the progress i made today on turbo-ing the shee. Sorry for the crappy resolution, its an ancient el cheapo camera. Its an IHI RHB5 turbo with the internal wastegate set at 7 psi. I'll finish the exhaust piping, custom silencer, and piping from the filter to turbo tomorrow. The electric oil pump should be in by next friday so hopefully it'll be rideable a couple days after. I did fire it up today squirting some oil into the oil inlet for the turbo and just at idle its painfully loud with no silencer, even with the garage door open. The coolest part is that with some very minor trimming, the plastics and seat fit perfectly with the turbo and all the plumbing and hide everything very well.

I'm aware i'm missing out on some hp with the fmf's, but i do like the current powerband, its very strong but not peaky. The banshee still dyno'ed at 68 whp at lakes motorsports in michigan with the fmf's so i can't imagine i'm losing more than 5-8hp at the very top of the powerband. But doing mostly trail riding now, having a little more of a balanced band works very well for me. I'll eventually upgrade but building an 87 K10 with a twin turbo stroked small block and 8 inches of lift eats up alot of time and money. Unless someone has dyno results proving that a large single is better than duals, i agree that duals are better for a bike that is set up drag racing only. Thats where max performance at WOT is prime concern over anything else. Regarding runner lenghts, longer will normally give you more power but on a two stroke with reed valves, this doesnt really apply anymore. This is why you always see carbs as close to the reed cages as possible. Because when the reeds close, manifold vacuum is lost momentarily. The vacuum is what keeps the atomized fuel in suspension, and when the vacuum is lost, the atomized fuel will start to condense into droplets. And having long runners means more atomized fuel to start falling out of suspension. And engines like a fine atomization better than large droplets, the same reason a fuel injected motor will be more responsive and make more HP than a carb all else being identical. With the manifold that had long runners (3 inches), throttle response was incredibly slow and dull, even with proper jetting. By changing the manifold to a square tube with shorter runners about an inch long (instead of round tube to better match the reed cage ports) the throttle response and sharpness picked right back up. I contoured the inside so that there are no sharp turns or edges and its a smooth polished interior. Out of curiosity i put the modified stock size carbs back on to compare side to side. I could not tell any difference on the top end but the low and midrange was noticeably sharper and much more present with the single set up. I even had a friend time me from 2 points down my street with both set ups, I was actually running .21 seconds faster with the single over a 5 run of each average. I would highly suggest either trying it or riding someone else's to see how you like it, alot of people who knock it i doubt have tried it. I've never ridden taper bore carbs on the trail to compare it, i just know how it affected my bike with the stock size carbs. It may not make the most peak hp, but it makes the hp over a wider range. I agree with Snopczynski, more hp doesn't always mean faster, how easy it can be ridden is a bigger factor. Having 80 hp won't do you much good if you don't have it till 8000 rpms, that would be pain to ride anywhere but a drag race. The laws of reasoning arent being defied with you carb sizes Snopczynski. During the dyno testing to get the motor for my truck tuned, we found it liked a significantly smaller carb better even with twin turbos. We started off with a 750 cfm carb (say what a 35mm or 38mm would be on a banshee) and then tried a 570cfm (equivalent to a stock banshee carb), it made 18 more hp and 19 more ft/lbs of torque with the carb that all the hot rod guys said was too tiny. Anytime you can increase the air velocity through a carb venturi atomization gets better because the vacuum signal pulling on the main jet will be stronger; of course only to a point before you start to choke a motor. Sorry for the long post, jut trying to share some tech info i've learned from building and modifying engines and parts over the years and watching all of the dyno tests at work on what works and what doesn't.

I have a stock bore and stroke banshee with a very aggressive drag port, milled head, boyesen reeds, and fmf fattys. I also made my own two into one intake from 1/4 plate and 1.5 X .065 wall square tubing, and kept the runners as short at possible (approx 1 1/8in middle). The first manifold i made had about 3 inch runners and it ran like crap; made another one with shorter runners and didn't change a single other thing and it was night and day difference. With a 34mm keihin pj and a dial a jet, its running better now than it ever did on the modified dual stock carbs. Way more low end and if anything it gained a smidgen of top end with worlds better throttle response all around. I'll never go back to duals, the easier jetting and lighter throttle pull would be worth it even if you did lose a hair of top. If you were only going to be doing drag racing i'm sure a single 42mm or 45mm would flow more than enough even on 400+cc motor. Cr500s and lt500r's run great on one carb and thats inhaling all 500cc's at once; even if you had a 500cc banshee, its only inhaling 250cc at a time.

Sounds very similar to what's going on with my bike right now. If you can get a timing light to flash (mine wouldnt for some reason) check to make sure you're getting spark at the right time and that one of the two isnt out of time. If you dont have access to a timing light, try swapping the flywheel. A cracked magnet in the flywheel can apparently cause all kinds of bizzare things to happen. look up my post "Right side not firing" , it might help you out.

I need a good banshee flywheel soon. PM me with what you want for it. I'm in the metro detroit area and lima, OH two days a week so if its anywhere around either i could pick it up. Thanks!

Yes, go with the 35mm. It will keep your air velocity up and in doing so give better throttle response and atomization characteristics. I run a 34mm keihin PJ with an adjust a jet setup and absolutely love it.

On a stock bore and stroke motor with a dune/drag port job, fmf fatties, and boyesen reeds, the difference from dual carbs was incredible. Tons more response everywhere, especially down low, easier throttle pull, easier tuning especially if you set it up with an adjust a jet as i did. I made my manifold from 1/4" x 3" cold roll bar and the runners out of 1.5 x .065 wall square tubing and just used the black polyurethane manifold from trinity. I run a 34mm keihin pj carb and a big clamp on K&N. I do not believe they hurt top end at all, if anything i have even more now. For anythin but all out duning or drag racing, you cant beat the ridability, its by far my favorite mod i've done so far. Do it, you wont be disappointed.

I would also recommend a single carb setup as opposed to larger duals for trail riding. Trinity Racing i think is the only company that still makes them, or you make the manifold if you're mechanically inclined. It makes a huge improvement on low to mid range response and power and no loss in top end vs. the stock carbs on ported cylinders. See if you can find someone your area with one installed to take a test ride. Maybe some other members with single carbs will chime in with thier thoughts. For chain, you can never go wrong with a 520 O or X-Ring. You might as well wait till the stock one wears out first though. Try one tooth lower and then two teeth lower on the sprocket on the engine to find a good balance between speed and acceleration for the terrain you ride in.

I purchased a new stator and ignition coil because i did test them with and ohm meter and they both were on the very edges of the allowable specifications and did not look to be in the best of shape (the bike was raced by the previous owner). And on the original stator it did have a couple of crushed coils. I didn't replace them just as tossing on parts. DieselTech, thanks for the suggestion about the crank being out of phase, that is something i completely overlooked. I can see how it would happen but could a stock bore, stroke, and compression motor just running an aggressive port, bigger carbs, and pipes actually do it? And yes, it is all the time now. It started with the cylinder coming and going but shortly there after, stopped firing correctly and ceased to blow the exhaust out with any pressure. Under load it will randomly feel like its trying to fire, but not for more than just a couple strokes. Unfortunately i no longer have the carbs and stock manifolds that were on it to do a vacuum test using the stock manifolds as a test point. Maybe i'll make a set of reed spacers and drill+tap a small hole for a barb on them the next time i have a free sunday.

Thanks for the suggestion but unfortunately that was the very first thing i did, new BR8ES plugs and switch the wires, then i picked up a new coil and plug ends. ::