sleeper06

Fuel/compression/spark, what are you syncing carbs with

Did you verify with k&t the needle and seat combo. I’m not well versed on mikuni carbs aside from smaller gassers. If that’s not rite it will push through . 7 mil cub by me at sea level 39keihin bored out. Tuned in at .1225dumps,.121 mains ,60 pilot Usually an E series needle. There’s also a lot of little things like is your power jet drilled out to far, angle of power jet, height into the carb bore . if your electronic check out start squeezing her down and read the plug , what’s your plug gap set at. , what plugs are you using. What were the ohm readings on your electronic components.

Yes they can be removed

Cr125

You can close the hole if you’re crankcase vent is deleted. If not make sure you route vent hoses to stop water from getting in case. Look up stock hose routing

Depending on carbs, stock is upside down and keihin is tilted when plunger touches

Ohm test your plug caps and coil. Every bike likes a lil something different but you’re dump size seems small to me not rich. When you’re at the line trying to clear out keep it under the rpm where it sucks through the power jet. Lean your needle to take care of launch and then set your power jet doing plug check on plug bottom using burn pattern. Don’t get to hasty n do one thing at a time. I’m not gonna tell you start changing dump jets and a bunch of other shit if you don’t get back with real time data on what each move has done. I’ve squeezed down power jets to completely closed on a few bikes. 1/2 a turn at a time until you get a 180 burn . None of it means anything if your electronics are not up to par

You talking bearings runout or crank. With the crank they can be finicky. Use standard measurement. I usually knock it like .003 over and walk it back in true with the welder. It takes practice for sure. First couple I did were really frustrating till I learned how to manipulate the tools n jigs to work for me. I ended up making some primitive tooling to help me out

To do the checks required to give you go or no go on runout you need a jig or a true stand. Feeling it means nothing. The centers are always the Achilles heel on older cranks

Maybe just the pic , thought I saw some grey hints with chocolate on one side and light brown on other. It’s damn close for sure. On customer bikes I leave em rich because no one rejects anything around here. I add fuel till it rolls over in 6th then back it down one size and tune needle

If you like testing shit like I do chop it again at 165

What was your procedure for the chop. Parts look good, parts look borderline . #1- how’s it run #2-have you tested your electric components and cleaned all your ground points . Make sure your head and case have continuity with your frame without the black wire coming from your stator plugged in .

At what intervals are you changing them. I’ve had very little issues with longevity

I wonder if anyone has done any R+D on pro/con through the rpm range