jayzx10r

I f'd up the info on post #43. It's gonna be: $35 One Week Pass-Off Site Purchase. $50 One Week Pass-On Site Purchase From Vendor. $150 Season Pass-Off Site Purchase.

http://www.blm.gov/pgdata/etc/medialib/blm/ca/pdf/elcentro/isdra.Par.27649.File.dat/ISDRABusinessPlanFINAL_May302013.pdf $35 One Week Pass-Off Site Purchase. $50 One Week Pass-Off Site Purchase. $150 Season Pass-Off Site Purchase. Looking through the 73 pages of BS, their findings are that since 2007, pass sales have declined by 30%. In typical governmental fashion, the answer is to increase the cost by 60%. Obviously, since people have less disposable income, only an increase in rates can be the answer!! Is it not possible to decrease the amount of law enforcement since there are less people to corral? My buddy was the "Camp Host" until last year. (He was the first responder to accidents) He worked for free until his position was removed and given to a paid for profit "on call" emergency service. He even paid for his buggy fuel, water and sewer pump out from his own funds.... even though he was offered these paid services as perks. According to their stats, the majority of us white males that frequent the park (70+%) make 60-80k. This should help to keep out more of those poor, broke, trailer park ATV riders.

I'm looking for SB inframe Shearer exhaust to go with my Serval build. I don't care if the chrome is "show quality" or not, but they have to look good... Nothing dented up or rewelded. Let me know what you have. Shipping to San Diego. Thanks, Jay.

So if I'm in the market for a set of inframe drag pipes, which would be a better choice for a lightly cleaned up serval for 98% duning at Glamis? Minor mods- 33PWK's, VF3's, pump gas domes. I'm on the fence on porting... I'm mostly after a reliable torque whore sand bitch. Recommendations are appreciated.

Let me know if you end up with another blemished head. Thanks, Jay.

I've been trying to find some info on why drag pipes work better on a midrange Serval and I found this post on ATV Dragracers (thanks, more-torque) and thought I'd share it. It's the first thing I've read that makes sense to me as to why a pipe designed for more pulses per second would work well as a midrange pipe in this application. I'm just looking for an awesome midrange pipe to compliment the duner friendly porting the Serval offers to motor the hell out of Glamis Dunes.... Discuss?? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "We actually tried some high compression domes, and cranking the timing to get more grunt, but it was not to be. We only found new levels of deto, with very little gains in the bottom end. lol Remember that the Serval Cub is the Cub with options. You can even port it to be exactly like you favorite drag cub setup! In over-simplified terms here is what is going on with the Serval cub. You have to consider that the pipes that we use have been crafted and re-crafted as following the progression of the banshee cylinders. With the exeption of T6s, most pipes make more power as the airflow and heat/energy of the motors exhaust goes up. But when we gain heat without gaining much airflow, the pipe gets peaky, and works at higher rpms. The pipe's mean temp. goes up. There is more energy for the pipe to work, but the hotter pipe acts shorter, so you typically loose torque. When you gain airflow, but not much heat, the opposite is true. You cool the pipe; it acts longer. The motor will have more bottom end, and less of a "hit" coming into the sweet spot of the pipe. The torque pipes, FMF,Slps, and kind-of T5s, are designed to accent airflow, especially at lower rpm on smaller motors, so they make good low end torque. High rpm pipes (drag pipes) typically start off shorter and are designed to function with more airflow and more heat. So how does that matter with the Serval? The Serval has the airflow of a well designed/modern 421cc motor, with some less heat of a high exhaust. So the pipe acts longer. The "drag pipes" function as if they were longer, more low-end-based pies. Then the added powerstroke of the low exhaust makes the motor more efficient at converting the energy into torque. The pipes carried overrev like crazy, because the pipe works well at the high rpm by design. And we have a winner. There are a couple reasons that the torque pipes are not well suited for the Serval, at least with the setups that we tested. First, they shine when they are capable of assisting the airflow of a motor that is struggling with airflow. But the Serval is not that motor. It has more airflow than the poor T5 can handle, so the "maxed-out" torque pipe has nothing to offer. As a matter of fact, the curve is pathetic in that the torque pipe has worse overrev than ever from too much airflow for the pipes design. It is possible that a very low compression setup, with stk timing would help the torque pipe's curve in the upper rpm, but the efficiency loss will prevent that sort of setup from comparing well to the high rpm pipe's setup. Some food for thought..."

Give a shout before Halloween.... that's the next time I'll be in Glamis.

My Banshee fits in my '89 Toyota standard bed pickup.... and I have +2 arms and 2 swinger. It'd be funny as hell if my truck had more room than a full size!!

You guys got cheated. I have a 1500.... it says so next to the oil cap.

Before I get a bunch of crap for having old tools, my dad gave me this gauge when I was a kid and it would feel wierd to toss it away. Last time I tested it against a Snap-On screw in style, it showed the same PSI on a 454 cylinder. That being said..... I have an old school compression tester, the type with the rubber sleeve that you push against the top of the spark plug hole. The newer style (post 1995 lol) screw into the plug hole and displace some of the vollume, probably giving a more accurate reading for small displacement motors, like the 175cc Banshee, If I show 150PSI based on measuring cylinder head volume from the outside edge of the spark plug hole, what would you estimate my true compression to be? I'm running a 50/50 mix of 100LL and pump premium and still getting detonation/pre ignition. Thanks, Jay.

Bummer!!! I was looking forward to blazing from Pad 3 DIRECTLY due East to the washes. I guess we'll see.....

Rule #3!! Good luck on the sale....good looking conversion.

Stock shock and trans. I'm guessing he has 225PSI for compression? Sounds like a good deal.

The Trinity name speaks for itself once again..... Just like the green glass sands of Nevada...... Ka-BOOM!!!!!!

Taking off for the G spot Thursday evening.....

Naa dude. Hot is Memorial Day!! Even Labor Day is usually good. With Easter being a week and a half away, it'll be awesome. It should be a mid-80's weekend...perfect for night riding. http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/Brawley+CA+92227

I'm gonna be at Glamis on Pad 3 over Easter Weekend. I always put orange roadside safety cones on the roof of my '80's sand colored RV. Plus, I'll be at the Sunset Drags at Pad 1 on Saturday. I have a zip tie on my flag whip so roll up and crack an MGD. Anyone else planning on going??

I run them on my Banshee without a spacer and my 33PWK's clear perfectly. I don't run a crossover either....I like that!! I'd def buy them again!!

You're Welcome. Idk how many links you ordered but that's the one I use and recommend. Since you're in Virginia, meet up with my bud Jasons. He and I have ridden a lot at Glamis but he moved to Suffolk last year....good guy. Another guy near him that seems cool is Surfjag, another VA dude.

I have a Lonestar +2 w/roundhouse carrier and a 110 fit perfectly. However, if yours is a bit bigger overall you'd be SOL. If I recall correctly (make sure you verify!!) a 520 chain is 5/8th's link to link. That would be +6 links added to the stock 104 to add 1-15/16ths worth of chain to each side. It would suck to be short...find a way to mock it up!!

I forgot to add.... If your swingarm is stock, you can order a shorter chain and save money too!! Here's your eBay item number for 110 link chain for a stock or (>I think<) a +2 swinger for $70 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RK-520-EXW-O-ring-atv-chain-Suzuki-Quadsport-LT230-LT230s-CLEARANCE-/390384484773?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae4ba81a5&vxp=mtr

Everyone has their preferences, but like I said...I like RK the best. DID's are good chains too but I've had better results with RK on street and dirt. Use a steel rear sprocket for longevity if you're not a dedicated dragger. With RK, the GB means gold. It's a good thing to have because it's more rust resistant (that's why I buy it:-)...plus it looks great too. Since you sent a link from RMATV, I'm guessing that's where you purchased it. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/958/-/3591/RK-520EXW-Gold-XW-RING-Chain http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/222/958/-/975/DID-520-ATV-X-RING-Chain

Send it back. You bought a dirt bike chain...the materials used in manufacture are different than on a quad. I discussed this same topic with an RK chain rep....he told me that since dirt bikes are lighter and have less traction/torque hookup, the plates are hardened to a higher level. ATVs on the other hand are designed by material choice to absorb the shock loading stressed imposed by the harder hooking (and heavier) quads. I'm an RK fan and prefer them over DID, however you should get a chain designed for quads.....and get an o-ring one while your at it!! You can't go wrong with a GB520EXW!!

The "click" is the brake switch.