jayzx10r

I ride my YZ out there... I take the 805 to the 905 East, turn Right at the Arco...(I think it is Cactus St). Go down a bit, park on the Right and ride!!

BTW: When I said 1/4", I mean 1/8" off of the outer port edge of each port only. I wouldn't touch the inner vertical edge...this would reduce the width of the bridge and could be a BAD thing... Jay from SanD.

I can't disagree with anyone elses conclusions and I don't mean to step on anyone's toes, but I personally did this to my 2 RD 350s, my 3 RD 400s, and 2 RZ 350s with no negative impact. I figure that flow is flow. My contention is that if your cylinder is ported, why isn't your piston? A 1/4" can go a long way... Like anything else, if you go too far, you can count on serious engine damage.... I believe that Wiseco offers pistons already ported...their HP series...842s. That is what is so great about these RZ/'Shee motors... They are chain saw buzz boxes. Usually, a well thought out concept works out with good results. This may be one of those opportunities to make some power. Just don't change the timing and be REASONABLE in the amount of material you remove :sweat: if you do!! I'm going to do it next time I change pistons, heck, I thought everyone did it!! Of course, I'm always open to learning something from someone else so if I've been blowing it all this time, It's never too late to change!! Top pic are stockers. Bottom photo is the 842s. Notice the width difference? Not a lot, but a bit.... Have a good one, Jay from SanD.

Guess I shoud have added a link...here 'ya go!! The other picture shows porting... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=110083314319

I think these would be a great idea!! And to think I thought it was gonna be my idea!! WIth this Global Economy, I'd think it would be east to get these made. Do flags have to be a certain color? I'm gonna look into what it would take to get these... As a very rough estimate...any idea on how many members might want them? 1000? 100? Just me?? :geek: Seriously...this would be cool...

I'm in Clairemont...

My Banshee came with Axis shocks on Lonestar Racing +2+1s and a Lonestar +2 swingarm. How can I tell if they are valved for duning or MX/Cross Country use? Are they softer if they are set up for the sand? If they are valved for sand, would riding in the dirt be a bad idea? Would the swingarm be OK in the dirt? I have not set the sag yet, but the rear is near topped out, the fronts sag a bit at rest. I was told the shocks were set up for a 185 pound rider...perfect for me!! Appreciate your insight. Thanks, Jay from SanD

You want plain???

This guy has great feedback and has a complete setup for sale in Greensburg, KS. No spacer plate required. End time: Jan-30-07 19:25:45 PST Here is his description: This is the complete topend and crank for any year yamaha banshee. This top end was taken off of a 2005 banshee. It was ran for about 10 hours and then was sent to ALBA racing to get ported. It was ran for another 10 hours after the crank and port work was done. It is still on the first bore and is completely ready to go. It is ready to install but might need a hone. Not sure though, casue there are still some cross hatch marks in it. No scrapes or scratches or anything like that on the walls. Everything that is inclueded is as follows. Cool head with 22cc domes laser cut for the 4mm crank and the o-rings for the head. Ported cylinders, pistons, c-clips, rings, wrist pins, and bearings. The crank is a hot rods 4mm stroker crank that was trued and welded and has very very few hours on it, there is no play in the rods. Also the seals are included and are still good to use. There are also some BR8ES NGK spark plugs and all the nuts to tighten it down. If you have any questions just ask. I perfer money order or cashier checks but will take paypal if you contact me after the auction is over. I have 100% feedback so bid with comfidence. Dont forget to check my other auctions for more banshee parts.

I hear 'ya. I started smoking in high school because the (sweet!!) girl I was "dating" was a smoker and it seemed like the thing to do... 15 years later of a pack + per day smoking Marlboro Reds, I decided to quit and I found it to actually be truly easy. Here is how I did it: First, you have to actually, really, truly WANT to quit!! Not because someone or something is pressuring you to stop...YOU have to want to!! This is key. Without being here, you are destined to fail. Next, recognize why you chew/smoke. I determined that for me, it was a reward for lifes little challenges and reward for accomplishments. Hey, I woke up!! Reward...a smoke! Made breakfast...Reward!! Made it to work..Reward!! Almost lunch...Reward!! Man, done with work...Reward!! Dropped the circlip down into the motor while reinstalling the timing chain...SHIT...Reward Dammit!! Anyhow, you get my point. So I decided to quit when I would be out of my routine...I quit when I went on vacation!! It was soooo easy!! Different environment, new experiences, no routine to follow made it a simple transition for me. New experiences didn't allow my mind to become idle and dwell/crave. When I did have a momentary craving...I just reminded myself that to quit was MY choice and that "IF I HAVE JUST ONE MORE, I'LL HAVE HAVE JUST ONE MORE THE REST OF MY LIFE!!" Just knowing this and believing this made it easier for me. If you are going to "try" to quit, you already accept failure on your part to quit. Don't even bother "trying." Spare yourself the drama. Why set youself up to kick youself in the balls (if applicable to you)? :cool: But when you DECIDE to quit, it becomes a decision as clear as black and white. You DON'T walk into the store and order a pack or tin. You DON'T reach for your wallet. You DON'T bum from your friends. It is clear as day...at least it was for me!! I've got to admit...I enjoyed smoking, and sometimes still miss it. I have not had a puff, drag, or cigarette since I quit. Not one!! I know that if I have just one more.......... Hope this helps. BTW: I agree with you about the patches...I think it is a BS crutch. With a patch, you can never believe it was your strength that led to your quitting...even though it was. It's all inside you to do this!! Just my $.02. Jay Form SanD.

I owned a RZ350 for a decade +...I am looking forward to the rush!! I was mostly wondering if you slide forward to weight the front wheel in turns or slide to the back to lighten it...

I have never ridden a Banshee in the sand, so what is the best way to distribute one's weight while riding through whoops, small jumps, and the starting line up Comp? More over the rear? Is there a technique for bowl riding? Some ettiquette I should know about, but surely don't? Feel free to acclelerate my learning curve. BTW: Heading to Glamis over Presidents...17, 18, 19...we should try to get a group meet!! Thanks, Jay from SanD.

Hello. I recently picked up this 2002 Banshee that has a +4 stroker and is (supposedly) dune ported but after doing a search under "4-mil" I still have questions...Big suprise!!! I guess I should qualify myself first by saying that I have a bit of mechanical experience and will have no problem cracking the cases when the time comes. I have a big ass Snap On tool box, MIG and stick welder, a 60G compressor, a strong telescoping magnet for when I drop stuff down into the crankcase and a Crescent Hammer to assist in fine tuning!! I can break stuff with the best of 'em!! Besides, No Worries...I have a Chiltons!! :laugh: Anyhow.... So I have already checked the stroke...58MM...so I know have a +4. Compression while warm (100ft above Sea Level, WOT) was 160. I don't see a 2mm plate under the cylinders. What should I see on the head...domes cut with a relief for the pistons? I'm going to pull the head/cyl to take a look at what I have lurking down there and was wondering what identifying marks, numbers, port count, or other telltale signs I should look for to verify my setup. Does anyone have port timing specs for stock and/or dune porting? How many ports should there be on a stocker? I'd like to measure down from the top of the cylinder (if this the best way to do this) to ensure I actually have porting and timing to match my +4 stroker. Any hints would be appreciated. This is probably the most important bit of info for me. What is the easiest way to determine if I have the standard or long rod setup while the crank is still in the cases? By part numbers?? Do "HotRods" have that cast into the rod or? Same with stock/aftermarket pistons? Where are these #s or ID marks located? As for consumables...Do you reuse CoolHead O-rings if they still look good? Is there a preferred sealant for the base gaskets/reed cages? Any other tricks of the trade would be much appreciated. Thanks for your comments and assistance.. Jay from SanD.

I'm thinking we need to discuss religion and politics next... :: Jay in SanD.

Thanks for the heads up on Banshee fuel consumption. Cycle Gear is having a 25% off Chemicals and Lubes Coupon day...I think it is Feb 3rd... I wonder if C12 is considered to be a chemical?? :yelrotflmao:

How much sag should you set your suspension up with for riding in the sand at Glamis? I'm sure I'll hit the hill for some drags but will equally dune. My appologies if there is a thread on this but the search engine doesn't want to task for words with less than 5 letters... :biggrin: Thanks, Jay from SanD.

Ricky Stator has them for $14.00.

So you go through 23 gallons over a weekend....or about 10 gallons a day? :shrug: Thanks...Jay.

I'm gonna hit Glamis next week for a couple of days but I have no idea on the fuel consumption of my new Banshee. What do you recommend? I like to ride more than sit around but if I have a cooler...... Thanks for the input... Jay From SanD.

I bought it this way. I've been looking for this Banshee for 4 months... Just picked it up a few days ago. I'm gonna take it out soon for it's Maiden Voyage in a couple of weeks!! One of the ultra cool doodads it that the stock tail light has been removed and in place of it are 2 kind of large (for LEDs) LEDs...each mounted on each side of the grab rail near the body work. When the headlight is on...they blink bright blue. At idle, they flash red and blue...kinda cool. I hope they qualify as tail lights at Glamis for night riding!!

Friction Modifier...

As a new Banshee owner and a Noob to this site, I thought I'd add some info I have found to be relevent to me. I found this site that breaks down the oil mystery and thought I'd share. The short version is that you can buy a gallon of Shell Rotella T full synthetic at Walmart for $16.00 and it is recommended for wet clutch/motorcycle crankase/transmission use by Shell. I use it in my Toyota pickup, Sentra, RV, and '05 Kawi zx10r. As a bonus, check out the view on oil filters....it's not hard to see why the Purolator PureOne looks good. And NO!! I don't have a vested interest in these companies!! As an open minded individual, I will read your comments about the Rotella T, but unless I see a reason otherwise, I'm planning on running it in my 'shee. Did I post CRANKASE?? You know I mean Transmission Case... Here 'ya go: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html Click on the link: "All about oil" to learn more then you need to know about oil and it's spec. BTW: Is't it funny that most synthetics are NOT synthetic? ::

I'm thinking I'll have to go.... Does anyone usually set up a group meet at Glamis? I'm new to the Glamis zone so I'd be up to meeting at a GPS coordinate!! Anyone else interested in going over the 17-19th? Jay in SanD.

It's on Monday...the 19th of February///\\\

Hey now... I live in San Diego and our version of "Premium" pump gas is 91 octane. I just pulled a compression test that yielded a 160LB reading. I'd prefer to run pump gas but I don't want to hammer my motor. I know that a lot of you live in America where you have REAL gasoline...not the watered down stuff we are forced to use... :verymad: Any leads to cheaper race fuel stations local to me would be great. The guy I bought the 'shee from said he only ran it on C12 but with a low compression like that...I don't think it needs it. Anyhow, thanks for the help, Jay in SanD.