jayzx10r

Heading out to Glamis on Saturday, 17MAR07. I started a thread in the sand forum... :yelrotflmao:

Heading out on Saturday morning (the 17th) to blaze Glamis for the weekend. No worries about catching the flu...I did that over President's Weekend!! :shoothead: Are you in? Probably gonna park near the Store but I'm open to suggestions... Since I'm new here...I have to ask a NooB question... What is the next major Glamis holiday? When is (pretty much) the end of desert season? C-ya there, Jay From SanD.

I just did a search on zabasearch.com for this "nice guy" and here is what I found... CHARLES C CUOZZO Born 1967 2208 CARTERSVILLE RD MINERAL, VA 23117 (540) 894-4426 I'm not passing judgement.... I just despise theives... BTW: I didn't realize that this thread was started 1 1/2 years ago... The info I've offered may be inaccurate so....use it accordingly!! Best of luck, Jay from SanD

I was wondering....If anyone wants to meet up when they go to Glamis, Gordons or?...Maybe you can post your itenerary and see if others want to meet up and ride too!! I have a pretty wacky work schedule and occasionally want to do mid-week riding or my weekend might be Fri-Sat but don't know too many people that can go. Maybe you have the same delimma... It would be great to know that fellow HQrs were gonna be out there too at the same time.... I don't know if anyone is interested, but if you are...feel free to respond!! :thumbsup: BTW: This isn't limited to San Diegians...if you are going to hit the SoCal Dunes, this message is for you!! Thanks, Jay from SanD.

Kinda reminds me of the day a couple of years ago when my neighbor's 18 year old son came by, recognized Led Zepplin on my TV ( I was watching "The Song Remains The Same) and commented.... "Cool, Led Zep has a new movie out!!!..." Or when my daughter walked out in the garage where I was tinkering, and noted that my music was "those guys that do the KFC jingle...." Uh-huh... Jay From SanD.

I use the Alpinestars Tech6 boots...and can't imagine riding without them!!! Like everyone says, wear them for a short period of time, adjust your levers, and your good to go. I have NEVER heard anyone say that their Alpinestars Boots were of shoddy construction or inferior materials. I'm not a fan of their jackets, but their boots and gloves are #1. In High School, I watched my friend Mark case a jump, pull a flying "W" over the bars, then the footpeg wasted his ankle...right above where his tennis shoes ended. :yucky: I NEVER rode without boots from that day forward..... And as an added bonus...they will relieve pressure on your ankles..... Just my 2 pesos... Jay from SanD

AVGAS 100LL @ $3.81 per gallon in San Diego. My neighbor's VW Buggy was detonating...he added 3 G's 100LL to 6 G's of Chevron 91 (premium in CA) and voilla!! Didn't ping once all weekend!! I'm gonna use it too....@ 50/50 or 33/66. It makes sense to use the lowest octane possible... Jay From SanD.

I'm glad I saw this....I thought I was gonna have to pull my Fattys, dump 'em, then get a set of T5s. If Banchetta is correct.... I'd probably stick with what I have.... Would the change be worth the time/effort? Jay From SanD.

I just bought a set of these same tires...21X12X8 8 paddle Sand Hauler tires from Fun Bike Center here in San Diego for $35.00 each!! :yelrotflmao: I'm hoping that they are gonna be a good set of tires. Anybody have any experience with them? They appear to be the same construction as my Haulers as far as being a buffed wheel with 8 paddles vulcanized to the carcass. I've heard the term "B2B"...what is that/what does it mean? Are some tire manufacturers buffed more that others? One guy on eBay that wanted $220 (just for tires) for his "only used twice" Haulers stated that his were B2B and were therefore, more expensive than the "regular ones." The rubber in my Skat-Traks have some cracking and even though it may be OK, I wanted to replace them. FBC also has a set of Front tires by the same company that look like the Mohawk style...for the same price. Thanks for replying,,,, Jay From SanD.

I was stuck at home this weekend with the flu... But I did use Goodle Earth to look at you guys at the Glamis Store @ 10:30... :beer: Looked Like Fun...LOL!! Is there another "Big Event" scheduled this year at Glamis or Gordons? Is there a San Diego Group that corresponds? Count me in if there is!! Feel free to PM me. Till then, Jay From SanD.

So this year I decide to get into the sand desert thing. Historically, I've ridden my dirt bike (YZ250) in the dirt desert...Ocotillo Wells, etc. As I stated in the beginning, I'm gonna try the sand thing. Brought out my bike with a paddle but quads seemed the way to go. I have 3 decades experience with the Yamaha Twin 2-strokes.. an R5, 3 RD350s, 3 RD400s, and 2 RZ350s. Deciding on which quad to pick up was essentially a NO BRAINER!! I buy an RV, awesome Banshee, load up on fuel and supplies and have a plan on meeting up with people not only local but nation wide (Thanks Banshee HQ!!) On Valentine's Day I begin to feel kinda wierd.. 2 days later I can't get out of bed...I am Sooooo Bugged by the FLU!! Today, (Sunday) I can only bang out a few key strokes and hope there is some semblence of cohesiveness. I'll probably be OK by tomorrow or the next day...I just wanted to vent!! Maybe next year!! Hope all of you that went had a GREAT TIME!! Back to bed for me now.. Jay from SanDiego//

I'm with you on that one...we should meet up somewhere!! We need an identifier...maybe everyone put 2 zipties half way up their flagpole or something like that I'm heading out on Saturday from San Diego. Hope to run across you guys there!! Jay from SanD

I was just trying to keep it simple for someone that is new to welding that would probably pick up welding rod at Home Depot or a similar store that would order rod by the 4 number index. For most garage mechaincs that stick weld, I think the only two rods you need are: (1) 6011. 6011 welding rods have all the characteristics of 6010, are used in all positions with AC or DC current, and work well on all types of regular or mild steel + burns through paint and grease. One negative aspect is the slag is harder to remove . (2) 7018. 7018 low-hy, low penetration, on all positions, with AC or DC current. Use the highest amp setting as practical. Use a straightforward "drag" progression with a "short arc." The low moisture make-up of this welding rod reduces chemical reactions in the weld itself and makes for the highest quality x-ray perfect welds. (Note - this electrode must be kept dry. If it's exposed to humid air or gets damp it must be dried in a rod oven before use. Just toss it in the oven at 500 for an hour and it's good to go. Leaves a nice smooth weld with easy to remove slag. If this is your profession, you know the higher level specs of your trade. But if you are a garage mechanic type (as what started this thread) I think this is your basic setup rod for getting started inexpensively is with a stick welding rig...and a Miller 225 Thunderbolt!! Or for a "From The Book" answer to ELECTRODE IDENTIFICATION: Arc welding electrodes are identified using the A.W.S, (American Welding Society) numbering system and are made in sizes from 1/16 to 5/16 . An example would be a welding rod identified as an 1/8" E6011 electrode. The electrode is 1/8" in diameter The "E" stands for arc welding electrode. Next will be either a 4 or 5 digit number stamped on the electrode. The first two numbers of a 4 digit number and the first 3 digits of a 5 digit number indicate the minimum tensile strength (in thousands of pounds per square inch) of the weld that the rod will produce, stress relieved. Examples would be as follows: E60xx would have a tensile strength of 60,000 psi E110XX would be 110,000 psi The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in. 1. EXX1X is for use in all positions 2. EXX2X is for use in flat and horizontal positions 3. EXX3X is for flat welding The last two digits together, indicate the type of coating on the electrode and the welding current the electrode can be used with. Such as DC straight, (DC -) DC reverse (DC+) or A.C. So after all this....I think we agree!! :beer: But I have to admit...I don't know what a D2 designation is!! Hope this Helps... Jay From SanD iego

I picked mine up from Craigslist....Fe(eBay) has some pretty goood deals too, but you definitely want to check it out personally though!!

I have an o-ring chain and wondered if you use chain lube if you ride in the desert sand. I have Chain Wax as well as PJ1 Blue Label but I'd think these would tend to attract sand. Do you think Tri-flow would be a good call? Anything better? Soon to be Glamis bound... Thanks, Jay. BTW: I just checked out my sprockets...somehow I don't think 13/46 is gonna get it done...

it works now...

It's actually March 3rd...

If yo are doing the "Green Sticker" thing...2002 is the last year for the much coveted Green Sticker in Cali!! That's why I have an '02...

The PIAA website shows ht 97-06 to take the H6m bulb. If that is what you have...you are in luck!! If that is not your year span or you don't know your bulb type, check before you buy. Jay from SanD.

I ran across a 6 month old thread regarding acquiring a Group Banshee HQ flag (which I think is a great idea) but as an alternative, what do you think of a Banshee HQ Flag Ball? Kind of like those Jack Balls from Jack in the Box...maybe a bit bigger but you get the idea. Easy to spot, easy to ship, probably easy to have manufactured, cheap to replace. :cool: I could check into having them made as I have a close friend in the fulfillment business. We would be talking probably a buck or two a ball...AND you still get to "express yourself" with the flag of your choice while letting fellow members recognize you!! Just stick it on the end of your flag pole!! Or as another choice, an antenna "coozie" that was made of foam that wrapped around the base of your flag pole and rested against the flag mounting tab. Nothing major...kind of "Oscar Meyer Weinerish...again, an easy design. If they can make a SpongeBob SquarePants antenna ball, we should be able to do this. What'cha think?? Any other ideas? Is anyone else interested? Is this a lame idea? Anyone can take this project over....I don't consider it mine. If you have the resources, Let's go!! I get 4 strokes per revolution too!! 2 strokes 2 many = 4 stroke!! Jay From SanD.

Hi. My opinion within your parameters of inexpensive and a good first welder would be for you to pick up an inexpensive stick welder. Even though buzz box welders look the same on the outside, you do get what you pay for. I have a Miller Thunderbolt 225 I picked up at the swap meet for $90.00 that works tremendously better than my neighbors POS Sears Craftsman welder of the same amperage. Mine sounds like bacon frying when I weld (a good thing) and his sputters like a 4 stroke with a bad plug and burned out valve seats!! :yelrotflmao: So you do get what you pay for. I also have a Miller MIG setup...a Miller 200 I've owned since new and I guess you can buy a decent MIG for 10 times what you will pay for a buzz box, but you probably don't need it. With a stick welder, you purchase welding rod in the amount you need and get rod specific to your task. 6011 rod is a great all purpose rod that will burn through grease and paint but takes a bit of finesse to look good + the slag kind of sucks to chip off. 7018 generally has a smoother finish and if done right, the slag peels away on it's own. That will bring out a smile when you do it... NOTE: notice the first 2 numbers of each rod...denotes the strength. 6011= 60,000 Lbs tensile strength, 7018= 70,000 Lbs tensile strength. The last 2 numbers of each are the rod coatings. Here is an exerpt from the Miller website: "Why Stick? Stick, the most basic of welding processes, offers the easiest option for joining steel and other metals. Stick welding power sources deliver inexpensive options for welding versatility, portability and reliability. Stick joins metals when an arc is struck between the electrode and the work piece, creating a weld pool and depositing a consumable metal electrode into the joint. The electrode's protective coating also acts as a shielding gas, protecting the weld and ensuring its purity and strength. Best for windy conditions and adverse environments." In other words...perfect for a garage do-it-yourselfer. Get a Miller (my fave), or a Lincoln. In case you didn't hear... Get a Miller (my fave), or a Lincoln. With the welder should be a ground cable and clamp and a "stinger" (the cable and holder that holds the welding rod). DO NOT buy some China knock off or some other unknown branded welder from Harbor Freight or Billy Bob's Discount Tool Shack and Fishing Supply Store. You get my point... You will also need a 220 volt source, as well as a welding helmet w/shade 11 or 12 lens, and a set of good welding gloves, and some rod. 6011 is absolutely universal. http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/PrinciplesSMAW.pdf is a file that has everything you will ever need to know as far as technique and metal prep. It is actually pretty EASY and pretty inexpensive to get into. They sell rod at Home Depot!! Hope this helps... Jay in SanD

I have the PIAA "Extreme White Plus" bulbs in my car, motorcycle, and Banshee and I've got to tell you...they are GREAT!!! They are soooo white and bright that the stock bulb looks a sickly pale anemic yellow next to them. They are stock wattage but get a lot brighter and whiter light by using proprietary (?) gas and glass coatings. Don't fall for those lame blue bulbs on FeeBay. They have a higher wattage draw and the color is not condusive to illuminating objects in greater detail. I guess the color is supposed to be "cool". The bulb for your 'shee is an H6M and PIAA makes one that is a 35 watt and outputs a 60watt light. This is probably the way to go if you have the stock stator. Personally, I'd consider buying a better light housing because the reflector is everything when it comes to lighting. You can see the PIAAs on my 'shee. They BLOW AWAY the small little Lazer Star lights I have on my bar clamp...the ones that everyone else has. They look yellow in contrast to the PIAAs. They are WHITE WHITE WHITE and easily 4 times more light...night and day!! If I recall, the H-7s in my ZX10r draw 55 watts, but put out light comparable to 110watts. I can't say enough good things about them. Hope this helps, Jay from SanD iego.

Where is wash 15? If you look it up on Google Earth and come up with a GPS coodinate, maybe I can run across you. I think I'm gonna be at the area near the store...but that is still open. Jay in SanD iego.