jayzx10r

I've heard rumors that at least in private...you are actually kind of a nice guy.... Just a rumor though... :smile:

True...I replaced mine for 2 bucks.....plus you can clean out all that sand that is in your tank!!!

Not that I have much experience in sand, but it usually seems pretty dry at Glamis. I'm running 21x12x8 8 paddles.

My experience is limited to the 2R...that being said, I have been happy with it. I went 3 years on the top end of my YZ250 and when I pulled it apart to freshen 'er up, I could still see the fine machine marks on the piston. Cylinder looked great as well!! NO CARBON BUILDUP in the head or ports...but there was a bit in the exhaust pipe though. I'm using the 2R in both my YZ and 'shee and will continue to do so. In fact, I recently picked up a case of 12 quarts on (fe)eBay for $50!! Yamalube has quite a bit of history with race teams..... BTW: The term "synthetic" doesn't really mean synthetic (thanks Castrol!!). It just means that the petroleum base oil has been changed so much that it doesn't "resemble" the original base oil. Here is a quote from this link about oils. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html "In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the impurities removed." The above link is why I use Shell Rotella T Synthetic for everything...even the transmission for my 'shee!! Walmart $16.00 per gallon. Jay From SanD.

Good point... I run 65PSI in the MoHo!! For instance, when I commute on my street bike, I run 35PSI but when I hit the canyons/back roads on weekends, my setup is to drop the tire pressure to 30PSI. While the motorcycle manufacturers may recommend tire pressures in the 40s, street canyon riders run around the 30s, my nitrogen running friend that races Superbike runs 24-28PSI. Still trying to figure out what to run my haulers at though..... :cool:

Some of the reasons the Motorcycle Race Team I hang with uses nitrogen in their tires are: 1. Less gas expansion with the increase in tire temp. This leads to... 2. A more consistant base line to catalog tire performance info from. This allows... 3. Repeatable setup by removing/minimizing the pressure change variable. This is because... 4. Race tires run very hot because they are run at lower pressures, have a stickier compound, and are run harder than street use tires, which generates more heat. When you are spending $5000 on a set of forks, $1300 for a rear shock, and $300+ on tires, and 20K on your bike, you want to minimize unknown variables in your suspension setup. That's what nitrogen offers the racer...in 1/2lb increments!! It has been shown that tire pressure can change from one corner to the next (racing) so running nitrogen is an inexpensive component that offers significant returns. As for your street vehicle, the tire manufacturers have factored in the use of atmospheric gasses compressed for tire inflation, so they know that when you fill up your tire to the recommended 35PSI it will be an operating pressure of 40PSI (or whatever it really is). They don't give you a slide rule with every tire purchase...they have done the work for you by allowing a pretty generous range of operational specification. On a quad running 4PSI, an increase in pressure of even 10% makes it...what...4.4PSI? Not a huge difference. I don't think a quad running on the sand is anywhere close to the frictional coefficient the rubber/asphalt contact a road vehicle generates. I Like Coffee!! Jay From SanD.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: LOL!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Not that I usually look for the negative attributes but in this case: That cover looks like it is 1/16" sheet metal!! Look how far away the cover bolts are from the outer edge!! I wonder what the weight of the 50 metal balls will be when spun to 9500 RPM and the cover peels back to release all that stored "energy"?? Might as well just pull the pin, toss it, and duck for cover.... Gives thought to another meaning for the term "shot peening"!!! Jay From SanD

What should I do as far as storage maintenence for my Banshee? I'm not going to ride it until it cools off after summer so what do you recommend? I have a cover and I have the weight off the suspension. Can you store these standing up on their rear wheels/grab bar? It would take up a lot less room in my garage if I could. In fact...I was wondering if you can transport to the riding area with them stranding up like this? \\\\Thanks for the info//// Jay From SanD.

I guess it sold 02APR07 for 5K. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=130094679483 I still think those shock springs were WAAAAYYY too short for what 'could have been" as far as suspension improvement. The seller claims it to be a "Baja 500 winner"...does anyone know this to be true? What year? Absolutely would be fun to ride though....

Your one word answer from me would be>>>No<<< However, my reasoning requires a bit more that one word... :geek: My barely founded opinion is that shorter = better turning/handling while longer = better straight line stability/drag launches. In the motorcycle world, they design sportbikes with the shortest wheel base possible to facilitate seamless canyon carving and effortless directional changes. Have you ever ridden a chopper?? They go straight effortlessly, but things get kinda exciting when you attempt a sharp U turn... They don't WANT to turn at all. Directional changes for them is not unlike what sunlight is to vampires. :cool: On a quad, the weight is also shifted to the front with the longer swinger...the opposite of a Road Oiler (read HD) Chopper. The MX guys run shorter than stock because the change in CG (Center of Gravity) lightens the front for better jumping, transfers weight to the rear for better traction/hook up, and allows better turning with a shorter wheelbase and lower HP they have...compared to the full on Draggers. They are all about turning on demand...like a sport bike. The Duner Sand riders/Trail riders seem to prefer stock length (or close to it) because of the F/R weight bias works well for power sliding and it is a good compromise of characteristics. The Drag and Sand Draggers like longer because they can just dump the clutch and minimize wheelies + run straight line better as they are pretty much WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at a hill or track that doesn't have turns in combination with the crazy HorsePower some of these guys have!! I have limited experience in that my 'shee has a +2" swinger that I think is juuuusssssttt perfect for the sand, but I've ridden 2 stock length swinger 'shees that turned bitchin and I +6" swinger 'shee that I thought kinds sucked for anything but dragging up the hill at Glamis. I'm sure part of this was the fact that the kid had his suspension set up for his 150lb scrawny ass!! Add 35 more for me!! It probably would have been cool if it had another 100HP though... I look at is as though either extreme end of the swinger length window makes your "shee more specialized in that one particular arena...whether it be MX or Drag...with trails being mid-ground. To "improve" at one end of the MX/Drag spectrum has an equal or greater negative consequence on the other end. You get nothing for free, Grasshopper... Once you decide which of the 3 types of riding you're most similar to, you can "Choose Wisely" and reap the benifits of aftermarket mods!! Don't forget about that rear shock if you do go long... :thumbsup: I just make this up as I go along!! :thumbsup: Hope this helps you decide.... Jay From SanD.

Ummmm, Ok. Let's try this another way.... If you had a cylinder with a piston/rings at bottom dead center and tried filling the cylinder with water, the water would run out through the ports. If you were to raise the piston to the point where water wouldn't escape through the ports and it would actually seal, this is the starting point of measure for volume I was eluding to. Measure from this point to TDC. I wonder what this displacement figure would be if you were to measure this volume!! I don't think displacement is relative to compression...but I think combustion chamber size is the significant factor though... I can't believe the riding season is over already.... :verymad: Jay From San D.

Urethane bushings will really connect you with the road if that is what you are after. That also means transmitting more road shock/noise to you, but for me it is totally worth it. My Toyota handles like a sports car now with my bushings installed. I wear out my 75,000 mile rated Michelins at 28k because of my agressive cornering... Urethane bushings by nature will squeak after the grease forces itself out but I have found that the graphite impregnated bushings from PST work well in minimizing that irritating squeak. Check them out at: http://www.p-s-t.com/ I've used their product and stand behind them. Jay From SanD.

Naaah. I just wanted to ensure that everyone knew that I didn't make up this quote...but I like it!!

This is so good...it's almost scary. If you are considering a transaction with someone online, or need to track down someone for a "face to face," do a search on zabasearch.com for them. I used this resource to locate and ultimately collect from some douche that tried to punk me for cash (feeBay) that lived in Walnut, CA. He was kinda surprised when I knocked on his door...as were his parents!! Check it!! http://www.zabasearch.com/ Jay From SanD.

You Don't Need Bling...When You've Got Ringa-Ding-Ding!! :yelrotflmao:

I hear ya... My neighbor wants to pick up a 450 this summer and he is a Ford/Honda guy all the way so there is no changing his mind to considering a Yammy 450 or (Gasp!!) Banshee. He's watched me smoke a hundred 4-strokes but ...you can't change a decided mind...

I was reading the DaveMoore Racing Thread in the roosting room (kinda funny!!) and the thought hit me... Do most people have someone else work on their 'shees for them or do they do their own work? Obviously you farm out for porting and boring, but do you do your own assembly or just drop it off....?? :cool: Jay Form SanD. BTW: ANY company advertising on this site should contribute at some level.... Mutualism works!! Peer to peer sales are one thing but business to buyer is another. just my .02 Pesos.

It's too bad that the calculation for 2-strokes doesn't factor in the loss of displacement due to porting. I wonder what the actual displacement is when measured above the intake/exhaust port... I bet the 450 guys would love to hear that they were roached by a 185cc mill!! Actually...if someone has a jug and can measure down to the lip of the first port they reach from the top of the cylinder and post/PM me with that measurement...I'd appreciate it!! :thumbsup: This could be fun!! Jay Form SanD.

My jetting isn't perfect yet...at least the needle selection...the mid is still fat. I'm running a 152 main, 48 pilot, 2 turns out on the air screw, 48 CGL needle in the middle (the one that came with the carbs). I'm gonna drop the needle 1 next time out because there could be a better transition from mid to top at 3/4 throttle. http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/pwk.php That is a link to the Keihin PWK spec and tuning guides that can assist you in fine tuning based on throttle position. Start with the main and work backwards. Main to needle to pilot to air screw. Did you install the pilot jets? If not, stock is a 52. I run 50/50 100LL av-gas to premium pump fuel and have 160 lbs comp on a 4mm stroker with the same carbs near sea level. I don't have experience with the air box but it is my understaning that it will be a bit richer. That being said, I'm wondering why you are on your 3rd set of pistons.... Is it one that seizes or both? Do they look like they have been run hot without oil? Is there signs of detonation? Do you have a fuel flow problem? What oil do you use? Maybe it is time for a leak down test.... Hope this helps... Jay From SanD.

No. I picked them up from the local stealership because they were blowing them out for $35.00 each. But they are the same as the ones on eBay and look like the same type of construction as skat-trak Haulers. Check out the thread we had going on these tires.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=74697 Hope this helps... Jay From SanD.

I wanted to try all the sand spots in the San Diego area. I've been to Glamis and Buttercup, but not Gordon's so it had to be done.... I have to say that I really don't see a reason to go back to Gordon's because the bigger dunes are kind of far away and test hill is pretty small. The dunes had relatively sharp edges so it would be pretty easy to get over your head REAL QUICK!! Plenty of Witch Eyes as well and the ridges didn't connect very well. I crossed the freeway at the bridge and went to Buttercup...I think that is where the best duning dunes are!! Huge bowles you could ride all day and not take the same path. Almost magical in the sense that it reminded me of water skiing...just cut a line and rail the edge!! More rounded edges contributed to better overall flow. Plus, Comp is GREAT too!! :yelrotflmao: For me, it's either Buttercup or Glamis so far. I just don't like the name "Buttercup." I think I'll change it to "top," an acronym for That Other Place. :cool: BTW: The weather was perfect...76 on Saturday and 80 on Sunday!! I left SanD on Friday in the rain and returned Sunday night in the rain. We were joking on Saturday that there was 1 cloud...it was really small and it was in Mexico. I'm bummed I've gotta work the next two weekends....I guess the season is over for me :shrug:

Hey there Elisha...I had a GREAT TIME too!! Thanks for the invite. I got a flat on one of my haulers on Sunday...thats why I didn't take my Banshee out on that last Sunday ride...I'm glad I brought my YZ250!! Just to bring everyone up to speed, I told Elisha about a bitchin' swimming hole in San Diego while we were out riding at Gordon's that is just outside of Ramona and thought I'd post the info for anyone else that wanted to go over the summer. Festive atmosphere, some shade, kid friendly...even for toddlers, 3 different height cliffs to jump from into an awesome waterfall fed "punchbowl" that has been carved out of solid granite rock. Go once and you will go again!! :thumbsup: DO NOT BRING GLASS!!! Bring plenty of beer though... So here are the Google Earth Coodinates for Black Canyon: 33*07'51.15N 116*47'47.92W This coodinate puts you on the small rock in the swimming hole. You have a good view if you check it from 2200'. It is an easy drive in a car or truck. Take the 67 through Ramona Left on Magnolia...it will turn into Black Mountain Road and into a dirt road. You will go up, over, then waay down the mountain ridge to the stream. Left at the bridge. Follow the road to the Left...over the bridge. The road narrows and has a bit of asphalt and a few blind corners (use your horn) and the punchbowl will be on your Left side...maybe 1/2-3/4 mi from the bridge Continue forward a bit (maybe 100 yards), you will see where the road widens...park there. Walk back until you see the bowl, it doesn't really matter which trail you take...they all lead to the same place!! As long as you stay on the main road you will get there easily. Any of the side roads you see on Goggle Earth are obvious secondary roads so you won't have a problem. When you leave, an easier way to leave... As soon as you cross the bridge, go Left. Right at the end...stay on this road (Sutherland Dam Lake Rd) until it runs into 67. R on 67 back to SanD. There are trash cans where you parked so >>PLEASE<<haul out your trash!! Have Fun!! Jay.

Maybe you can trade springs with YAMAHA04. His are too stiff!! Jay From SanD.

I think the 9 pounds loss is great but the rotating mass principle is minimized by of the relatively small shaft diameter. The greater the distance from center of rotation, the greater the force of rotational mass. Honda loves it's "Mass Centralization" concept in street bikes.... I have these Carbon Fiber motorcycle wheels (Dymags) and when you look at the design, most of the structrual material is closest to the axle, and the closer the spokes get to the actual rim the thinner the spokes become. BUT...rotating mass is rotating mass...and the less, the better!!