jayzx10r

His fuel must have a small amount of Andromeda Strain... :geek: Is the fuel leaking from the bottom of the tank/top of petcock or from the rotating selection knob? I replaced my o-ring (the one between the tank and the funny word part) with the correct Yamaha replacement part for $2.25. Jay From SanD.

Here is why I like forged pistons over cast. See how the forged Wiseco didn't shatter like a cast piston would have under extreme over-rev? It stayed together and folded into itself instead of grenadeing... This piston is exactly as I found it. I pulled the exhaust...the piston pin fell out of the chamber onto the garage floor. I pulled the head, reached into the cylinder and pulled this out of my RD350. The rod was broken in half and wedged into the cylinder wall. :: Ouch!! :: Let see YOUR BEST piston pics!! Jay From SanD.

Looks pretty cool....

I've heard some people call it that. There is a "Devil's Punchbowl" in North County too!!

If you look at the Wiseco catalog (PDF at their website) they are the last listing under Banshee. I've personally "ported" the pistons in my 2 RD 350s, my 3 RD 400s, and 2 RZ 350s with no negative impact. I'm talkin' pre-ProLites. I figure that flow is flow. My contention is that if your cylinder is ported, why isn't your piston? A 1/4" can go a long way... Like anything else, if you go too far, you can count on serious engine damage.... Wiseco offers pistons already ported...their HP series...842s. That is what is so great about these RZ/'Shee motors... They are chain saw buzz boxes. Usually, a well thought out concept works out with good results. This may be one of those opportunities to make some power. Just don't change the port timing and be REASONABLE in the amount of material you remove if you do!! I don't think these will work for us 4mil guys so I'll have to do it myself!! :geek: Top pic are standard Pro-Lites. Bottom photo is the 842s. Notice the width difference? Not a lot, but a bit....

Anyone have an opinion on the HP series Wiseco pistons? They are "ported" significantly from the manufacturer and look pretty good to me... They are the ones I'd buy if I could. I don't think they make them for us 4mil guys though... :ermm:

I was kidding around when I commented on the Helium/lightness and unsprung weight=thrust POV. It's supposed to be :yelrotflmao: :wink: :sweat: :smile: :cool: :biggrin:!!!!!

This is exactly what I was going to say....all except the steel rail part. For me, I highsided my YZ and was thrown about 30 feet, first impacting my collarbone/shoulder. I KNOW I would have broken my collarbone, but my MSR redirected the impact over a large area so... I'm here to 2nd the motion that they work!! But then again, I ride my 'shee wearing Tech 6's too.... Jay From SanD.

Hi. Mr. Buzzkill here. If Nitrogen doesn't expand as much as atmospheric gas, the result will be a lower operating pressure once the tires have reached their operating temp. This will LOWER your mileage compared to a tire that is run at a higher pressure...all things being equal. A harder tire = less rolling resistance = less contact = BETTER mileage!!. First. Understand that the tires generate heat because the rotational forces induce friction generated from rubber/asphalt contact and the torsion rubber goes through to maintain contact over varying terrain. Second. Friction generates heat. Heat has the effect of expansion on any gas...some more than others... Third. Tire pressure specs are determined with the understanding that compressed "air" will be the medium used. If you want to use nitrogen, you would need to increase the initial pressure to end up with the desired operational pressure...because using Nitrogen will have you at a lower pressure at OpTemp!! Finally!! The use of Nitrogen filled to the tire manufacturers spec for atmospheric gas will net you LOWER MILEAGE!!! than if you used good ol' smoggy air at fill up!! To sum up my rant... Because Nitrogen expands less relative to temp increase, you need run a HIGHER initial cold pressure...which will give you better mileage(because of improved frictional coefficiency) DURING the time it takes for the tire to reach it's normal operating temp. This point in time is your MPG increase over "air." Once the tire reaches OpTemp, there is no improvment over "air," if ultimately final operating pressures between the two are equal. If you do not increase your initial pressure to factor in the different characteristics of these 2 gasses, you will LOWER your MPG because your tire will never reach the desired pressure and resultant "Hardness" (durometer rating) the engineer envisioned when they spec'd your tire design. An example based on numbers I'm pulling out of my ass: 1. Nitrogen filled: Tire filled to 35PSI. Operated for 15 minutes-tire pressure is 38PSI. 2. Air filled: Tire filled to 35PSI. Operated for 15 minutes-tire pressure is 44PSI. 3. Nitrogen filled: Tire filled to 40PSI. Operated for 15 minutes-tire pressure is 44PSI. The 44PSI tire will roll easier than the 38PSI tire. The tire engineer designed the tire for 44PSI operation. So I agree, using Nitrogen has the potential to give you better MPG...but ONLY if you adjust for it. Dude, you adjust your jetting for elevation/temp...this is no different!! Did I mention I like Red Bull too?? :sweat: I need to get back to work!! Hope this helps. Jay From SanD.

That is why you need to pick up a Honda 200SX...maybe 1987 vintage. :yelrotflmao: Let 'em rip on that thing while you ringa-ding-ding right by 'em!! That was you can introduce a new word into their vocabulary.....ROOST!!

The redline of the RZ350 was 9,500RPM.

There is a set of Mohawks on ebay you would probably like...used one time: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...atchlink:top:us

I have those same fronts on my 'shee and would buy them again. My vote would go to the STU Razor. :thumbsup: Here is what the company says about this particular tire on it's website: www.sandtiresunlimited.com/sandtire1.html Application SAND TIRES UNLIMITED focused on a pretty much ignored idea, Front Tires. Front tires for sand vehicles were just an after thought. Sand is to ATV's as air is to a plane and water to a boat. It all works the same. So, create a bigger tire and more footprint and you get more floatation. Sand moves away when you push off it and it moves around when you apply pressure to it. So, it follows that a front sand tire should turn through an unstable medium, like sand, just as rudders do on planes and boats. We gave this tire a biased rudder. The click the picture to see a profile of the tire. This biased rudder sand tire can be run forward or backward for more or less positive steering control. Recommended for 7" wide wheels and ONLY for ATV 4 wheelers. Benefits * Durable & Rugged 4 ply construction * 22" height when mounted on a 7" wide wheel at 5 psi * Reversible for more or less positive steering control * 10" bead diameter * Mounts on 7" wide wheel * Tire weight - 6 lbs.

I'd appreciate you input on this... I bought some tires (Sand Haulers) for near half the price (80 bucks) of a set of Skat-Traks and they weigh out at 1 1/4lb more each over the Skat-Traks I'm replacing. Do you think this would be considered "significant" enough to spring for the S/K's and sell off the SH's? The postal scale shows the SH's to be 10.0lbs and the SH's to be 11.3lbs. I like to win races and I'd kick myself if the additional weight cost me 2 or 3 bike lenghts at the top of Old's... Thanks for your opinion.... Jay From SanD.

When you guys are talking about b2b and sls, how can you tell which is which by looking at them? I know that the bead is where the tire/rim seat...are you saying that b2b tires are buffed on the sidewalls all the way to the bead? My 21x12x8 8 paddle haulers are buffed along the top and almost to the vertical point of the sidewall...maybe 1 1/2" past the end of the paddle. Is this the standard buff? I've heard of double and triple-buff also. How can you identify these tires? I bought some Sand Haulers for $80 and was trying to decide if I should mount them or spend the extra $ and pick up Skat-trak haulers. Thanks, Jay.

He sure liked to let the dyno drum coast the motor at high RPM with the throttle chopped... I was wondering what was up with the puff of smoke right before the vid ends...near the carbs Another example of why i do my own work!!! If I could figure out an adaptor to reduce the output of my 'shee to 1 wheel, I'd be able to have unlimited dyno time use on my friends motorcycle shop dyno...

You believe what is high...the price or the pressure? Most of the aftermarket wheels I've seen are either 8"or 10" but the stocker rears are 9". Are there issues with the stock wheels or do they have undesirable characteristics on hard pack conditions? Jay.

Actually I heard that helium filled tires reduce unsprung weight!!! And we all know that 1lb of unspring weight reduction = 2.67lbs of additional thrust!! :biggrin:

Looks like a delivery from "ACE Ventura...Pet Detective"!!!! :biggrin:

I believe you are right!! It is the same deal in the automotive industry...those isololation springs on the clutch disc between the disc and the metal splined plate that attaches the the transmission input shaft absorb the shock between power stroke firings and smooth out the energy spikes created by engine operation. Imagine a 1 cylinder 4-poke engine in operation. The power stroke firing adds a significant energy spike and increases the speed of the crank rotation. As the motor continues through the other 3 strokes of operation, it is losing rotational speed due to parasitic frictional drag + the work the engine is actually doing. Then, WHAM!! Another explosive sledgehammer of power to add to the rotational speed... Now repeat this process 10,000 times a minute (166 times a second) and you can see why somethings gotta give!! In fact, something will give if they don't engineer that something in... Hence, your cushions... Hope This Helps... Jay From SanD.

Cool. I appreciate your effort. I offer my Thanks... There are others promoting their business that don't or won't...I'm glad to see you are not one of them... It looks like you are ramped up to do some serious manufacturing of a quality product. Like I said before... Good Luck on Your New Venture!! :thumbsup: Jay Form SanD. BTW: I'm new here too...This is a GREAT site and have had good experiences with the people I've met both on and off site!!

I don't see that you are a paying member yet...as you said you would. I ride on this site for free, but I offer my $.02 worth of insight in return. You are trolling for business...you should contribute financially to this site in return. Nothing Personal, Man. Just an observation. Good Luck on your manufacturing venture. Jay From SanD.

I just picked up a set of '06 Banshee wheels/tires that have never been used (they were replaced immediately with sand tires) off of Craigslist for $100. Is that a good deal? Should I have bought aftermarket wheels instead? What are the positives/nagatives associated with the stock tires/wheels/rim size? Probably an infrequent use tire that will be used exclusively in hard pack, rocky conditions. Picked them up mainly for "tuning purposes" up the street and pulling a couple of weeds from the front yard... :biggrin: How much pressure should I run? Thanks, Jay From SanD.

If you weren't on the wrong side of the country...we would be signing papers right now!! Jay From SanD iego