jayzx10r

I'd think your choice would be determined by your type of riding. There are some really expensive axles out there that would be what you'd want if you were racing hardcore MX and/or doing sky jumps. If you're just mozying around in the trails... why would you shell out for one of those? I chose the Tusk axle because for what I do... it works badass for my needs. There are a lot of people racing with one so I def don't have concerns while I'm duning. My opinion is it's a upper mid range axle that is made with premium materials. That, coupled with their return policy made them my choice. BTW: My Lonestar axle is in my garage broken in 2 pieces. I couldn't find my receipt, they told me to pound sand. RMATV got my business!

Where are you in SoCal? I have a nice set of CPI inframes with nice chrome I'm looking to sell locally. I'm in San Diego. LMK if you're interested, Jay.

My front tires of choice are STU Razor Backs... Hell Yea, they're the best front tire for sand duning peroid!! Out back, I run Sandstars on a 9" rim. They hook up real well... and I used them on my 421Serval and a +2 swinger. I hate duning on my 21x12x8 8 paddle Haulers... totally sux. They're only good for dragging and I dune/drag the same ratio as you! 2 questions for you about your front end following the trail: First, are your rims reversed? Second, is your front end aligned properly? Wheels should be pointed in about 1/4". Check out the "how to guide" at Lonestars webisite. I have mine set up as they recommend and mine doesn't wander... http://lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

2 questions for you about your front end following the trail: First, are your rims reversed? Second, is your front end aligned properly? Wheels should be pointed in about 1/4". Check out the "how to guide" at Lonestars webisite. I have mine set up as they recommend and mine doesn't wander... http://lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf My front tires of choice are STU Razor Backs... Hell Yea!

My LSR stem doesn't have them....

Delivered yesterday. Enjoy, Dave. Props to a good buyer!

Do you use air or nitrogen to pressurize the Fox Shocks? I run Axis all the way 'round my Banshee. I'm sure they've gotta be heavier than air shocks but I'm a duner so weight isn't a big deal for me. Plus, I like the consistency of a spring...

Yep.... SPF!

And I ride with groups that wanna do 25+ mile rides. I wish mileage wasn't an issue, but where I ride is 125 square miles of sand so being limited by fuel sux! Cost of fuel isn't the issue, I refuse to run a 5.6g tank or install a cooler rack. lol. I'm OK with a li'l less powa!

Probably not. I'd recommend you contact Redline Racing directly and have him send you a custom set. They are ridiculously inexpensive and would meet your needs perfectly.

That's a Chariot head. Going back to a stock cyl 4 mil ported by Redline. Tired of burning my legs on my CPI's so they're gonna go too! Back to Fatty's!! BTW: The price was supposed to be $900, OBO but I can't get back in to change it....

My sale doesn't include the head... it's just there to hold the domes for the pic!! The head studs are newer... they were new when I did the build.

I purchased this new Serval cylinder last year and its first run was over the last Halloween dune kick off at Glamis. I think I made five or six trips out the season, so it has very little use. Porting flash cleaned up by a buddy of mine that builds race engines for motorcycles who also has a lot of 2 stroke experience as well. The domes and pistons have ZERO carbon buildup... No, I didn't clean them up! Ran with Yamalube 2r. Pump gas domes from Redline, Wiseco 68mm pistons/rings are for a long rod 4mil crank. Stud extenders, new head studs, plugs are Yama bonded in place. Parts & nikasil look great, no surprises... A couple of small scratches that any new cylinder would have after a short period of runtime. Cylinders are painted with actual Yamaha paint so they look stock ish from a distance. Lol I'm looking for $900 obo head not included. newer head studs You cover paypal fees, I'll cover shipping. Jay.

Sorry to hear about your problem... I can't believe the engine # isn't on the title!! They are on Cali titles... Anyhow, IDK if they'll allow you access to your quad so you can raise the numbers, but here is a link from some that have found solutions to the same issue. Hope this helps!! http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91807

PM sent.

PM sent.

If you're good with spending 2k more, pull the engine... box it up and ship it to Cam @ Redline. Done deal, problem solved.

I think the best answer to figuring out what's best is to tap a site sponsor for their knowledge.... and give them a ridiculously small contribution for their time spent exploring via trial & error. They'll give you an aluminum 3D rendering of what they think is best... and you can install it in your head and be done with it!! I like Redbull because they contribute a lot in return to the sports that I like. Probably one of the reasons I suggest Redline as well.... not to mention his great customer service and quality products!

I'm gonna try out the Cascade pipe wrap... see how that works out.

Oh yea, huh Tyler!! I forgot a few of the details... Currently running CPI inframes on a serval cyl, UPP intakes, v-force 4's with 10º bend K&N's hanging off of 35 PWK's.

I'm getting a li'l pissed that every weekend I ride, I have to replace my left side filter outerwears because the stinger is sooo close! Last trip, I cooked my K&N!! I have automotive pipe wrap around it, but it's still not good enough as I have like 1/4" clearance. Sooo.... do Shearers fit better? What about the "air box" bend stingers... would they give me more clearance? I'm open to other solutions too. I was even thinking of running the stock air box open top and letting the pipe burn it's own clearance... lol. Someone recommended the Cascade sleeves but since they would lay directly against my filters under pressure -- I can't see them not burning my filters either. Sand use only so it's a filter and outerwear setup... Thanks for your $ 0.02.

Responses to posts like ^^ crack me up. Dumont is less than 3/4ths mi wide and less than 2 miles long. Yea, it has a (1) bitchin' kick ass hill for drag racing... but the rest of the area one can cover in 20 mins. Shoot... I rode around the entire area in 6 minutes!! If all you need to fulfill your riding bug is a singe hill or a single 300' piece of land to repetitively prove you (or someone else) is always faster accelerating over a short distance you can cover in 5 seconds, you've found your place==Dumont, LSOK or wherever else is a couple o' square miles. However, if you want to ride more than 2 miles a day (35-300' runs... almost an entire 3 minutes!!)... you can't even put those places and Glamis on the same page. I pass that shit within 4 minutes of my first of many 25 mile rides of the day!! 100 miles a day is pretty easy.... but then again == I don't have billet grips like I've seen on some of the bikes that don't have shocks. Returning from my digress... back to the topic at hand. I/we ride in one day what it takes many of the trolls 50 days to do. That's why it's funny to see some try to compare a football field to 125 square miles!!

Who's up for meeting up at Glamis during the week of Presidents Day? ~~Roll Call~~ I know it's a bit early to know exactly, but I'm optimistically looking to get there the weekend before, stay the week of, stay through the following weekend.... shooting for 14-22FEB. I'm open to camp anywhere (yes, even the washes! lol) but if I don't camp with a group, I'm gonna try Roadrunner or Pad 3. I'm sure my magic shot glass will again make it's appearance! As always... the more, the merrier!!

So Bon, aside from making enemies on your first post.... the best way to get answers is for you to make a modicum of effort to investigate your problem so you can at least identify parts by name. It beats getting shit because you're too lazy to even do the fucking bare minimum. Get it? So your issue(s) are: 1. Your head leaks where it meets the top of the cylinder. 2. Hard to start... probably needs a valve adjustment. 3. You're a typical 12 y/o and need everything handed to you. For 1. Replace the head gasket... check for warpage. Google how to do it if you can't figure it out on your own. For 2. Check valve lash and install proper shims. As valves wear, the clearance get's tighter until the valve doesn't seal. If you need a visual, just think that as the valve seat and valve wear at the contact point, the spring is trying to pull the valve through the head. For 3. Asking questions is OK. Asking stupid questions is OK. Being too lazy to at least describe in detail what your question is .... is fucking gay. Don't be a homo!! Hope this helps.

Whatever you NoobS do, don't read this!! http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133195 I was there to see Jason's box of junk. It was good for recycling, that's about it. not-lol. Do a big order from that d'bag. You should gift him the money to save 2% on the garbage you'll either receive or won't... Even Rattle Can Ray will tell you... "pictures are for reference only == they're not the actual parts you'll receive." High 5.