jayzx10r

Tires are now mounded on the rims.... :thumbsup:

PM sent :thumbsup:

Here is a source of info I checked out... http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html Because of the photos of the cut up filters, I now use the PureOne filters on all my vehicles. One of the big deals is to not use one of the 10-30w "energy saving" oils. I only use 10-40. Click on the "all about oil" if you want TMI about oil. There is a link at the bottom of the page that dead links to Shell posing the question if diesel oils were OK for motorcycle use. It used to say it was a great match for wet clutch applications as the heavy load demands of cycles were comparable to diesel loading. Oh well....good things don't last... They prolly figured out that they could repackage it and sell it to us for $10.95 per quart!! It's gotta be a conspiracy!! :woot:

I bought one of these +1" braided lines. Don't know how it will fit for your application but they are cheap enough at $9.99 + $5.25 shipped!! Clear coated and the shop selling them is Earl's Fittings...a well respected AN fittings retailer just blocks from my home. Friendly people there... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...1QQcmdZViewItem

First, are you asking about transmission oil or premix 2-stroke oil? You will find that people are passionate in their decision to run the oil they will tell you to use so here is my $0.02. The Yamaha Manual spec calls for standard 10-30W 4-stroke engine oil to be used in the transmission...and to change it annually. I do it more often...I change mine about every 6 weekends/rides. Some change it every weekend. I don't know what type of riding you do or the temp where you are, but I use Shell Rotella T Synthetic Oil I buy at Walmart for $16.00 per gallon. Because it is a diesel engine oil, Shell recommends it for motorcycle transmission/wet clutch and any highly loadied 4-stroke applications. Pretty much any motorcycle specific oil is great...I prefer 10-40W. Walmart sells Castrol motorcycle oil for $2.50qt that would work well. Golden Spectro, Bel-Ray, Mobil 1, Klotz, and any of the other name brand $8-12 per quart synthetics are good too...I just think they are excessively expensive. Like I said, I use the blue bottle Rotella T Synthetic 5/40w for my desert/duning application. As for premix, for the past 15+ years I've used Yamalube 2R in my 2 RZ350s, '93 KX250, '00 YZ250, and my '02 Banshee. I work on my own bikes and my pistons/cylinders typically show nearly zero wear upon inspection. Determining ratio is easy. 32 to 1 means 32 parts of fuel to 1 part oil. 128 ounces of fuel (1gallon) divided by the ratio you want...in this case 32 = 4 ounces. 4 ounces of oil per gallon yield a ratio of 32 to 1. 4 ounces of oil multiplied by the number of gallons of fuel in your can you are ready!! Most 2-stroke oil quart containers have a ratio chart on the side. Maxima has a premix container that you fill to the appropriate line for the amount of fuel you want to mix. No guesswork. One quick point...any of the caster based oils will separate over a relatively short time and gum up your carbs real bad...necessitating removal and a de-gunking if not drained religiously!! Good stuff for racing, though. My point of view on a highly subjective topic. Jay From San D.

I have the 33PWKs on my 'shee and I'm happy with their performance. I don't think the carbs are limiting my performance in any way. In fact, if your carb is too large it can impede performance by having too low velocity to atomize fuel at anything but high rev operation. Smaller carbs work best on a near stock motor or if you want snappy low/mid. If you increase the appetite for fuel to the motor (porting, pipes, etc) be reasonable in choosing the size of your carb and make the decision based on it's intended use. Me, I like 33 PWKs.... :thumbsup:

Another "Which pipe is best" question. I'm looking to get better performance at Olds this winter and am looking for the best complimenting pipe for the mods i have. I don't mind giving up SOME bottom end, but I don't want an "only Top End" power band. I run K&Ns with Outerwears so I'd like an exhaust that is sock friendly. So I guess what I'm looking for is a duning friendly semi-drag pipe to run near sea level. So far, it seems that: Fattys: A good all around pipe...but I think I need a bit more focus. T-5s: What needs to be said? What is not to like? CPI: The ones' I'm leaning toward...but are there clearance and fitting issues with these pipes? Shearers: An all out top end only pipe with no bottom end. SSTs: Like my Fattys but with a bit more top end...kinda like T-5s. I'm not limiting myself to these chambers only so if you have experience with others...let me know!! The "magic wand" would give the the low end I have with the top end hit I don't have. :cool: Feel free to post pics of what you have/recommend...particularly under the seat shots showing the stinger run. Jay

Do you set up to spec with a riders weight on the quad (race sag) or do you set up with the quad under it's own weight (free sag) only? Thanks, Jay.

I need to set up my front suspension. Lonestar recommends Positive Caster of 3-5*, Negative Camber of 2-4*, and toe-in at 1/4" for sand duning. Anyone think these settings are not the hot ticket?? Jay.

You can count on bansheeryder21, my Bro ( with his Quadzilla ), and I to be there for sure. If anyone wants to convoy with us, we are gonna leave El Cajon at 6:00PM. :beer: Anyone else going??? :woot: Let us know!! :beer: Jay From SanD.

And while he didn't mention if he is on a budget, you have to admit that FMF Fattys are a really good all around system, have better than most bottom end-mid response, have available sparkys, and can be found used for pennies on the dollar compared to some of the other brands. I think they look good too!! As and added bonus, you can still reach your spark plugs without drama. See what I mean?? Probably perfect for his application.

I have a set of new unmounted 21x12x8 8 paddle sand hauler paddle tires I will mount on my used Douglas 8x8 .125 Blue Label wheels. I'd like to get $150 for them + actual shipping to you, but I'll take the best offer. Rims are in good used condition...could use a polish though. Pick up at my home is OK too. I have 100% positive feedback on (fe)eBay and can accept Paypal as long as it originates from your bank account. Negative on the credit card thing...I only have a personal account. I'll also take a USPS Postal Money Order. I won't pull a jamesbrokman1 on you. I wouldn't want to deserve an ass whoopin... :thumbsup: Sweet, Jay From SanD.

Dammit!! :mad:

It is funny that you ask that. I have access to a motorcycle dyno and all the dyno time I want 5 miles from my house. Honestly, I probably use the dyno every couple of months...and have for years. I put a new set of plugs in my ZX10r and saw minimal HP change. I consider 2 HP insignificant...but, hey- 2 is 2 and it was old vs. new!! Did you know that new, fresh oil causes a loss of HP? Yep...that beat up thinned out old oil works better!! I proved that with my ZX7 and the trusty Dyno. I'll still change my oil every 2000 though. Another one I like is that tire pressure causes changes in HP. A harder tire gives a better HP reading on a dyno. The mod that made the most difference on the dyno was with my ZX9r comparing before and after I changed the chain/sprocket set. 120HP before and 129HP after the change. That is like-10%, but it was really worn badly. There can be a million variables, including the "corrected" HP figures everyone throws around. But you still can't explain how a spark plug change can alter the ignition timing to fire before electronics allow it to discharge. As you tell it, by nature it would have to be variable by RPM if the end result has somehow been accelerated from the device that pulls that trigger. For example, if it was 2 degrees at say, 8000 RPM, then it would have to be 1 degree at 4000 RPM and so on, unless it was variable. Instead, you just claim a 2 degree advance period. Would this be at idle or at a higher RPM? See man, I'm not being a dick. I'm just asking you reasonable questions to answers you should already have to back up the claims you assert. I like to learn, maybe you have/had something to offer but telling you to shut your mouth doesn't "learn me." :happy: Nothing personal man. You have to admit, the slowing of time due to rotational speed thing was kinda funny though :biggrin: .... Lighten up...

I heard that there were going to be lights on Olds on Saturday, the 18th at Olds in Glamis. Has anyone else heard about this event?? :beer: :beer: :beer: I'm ready to go if so!! :beer: :beer: :beer: Let Us Know!!

Ultra Kick Ass!! And like Kermit the Frog's finger...it is Green!! It just doesn't smell like Miss Piggy!!

I run a 14/41 (stock ratio) and am happy with the result with my 4 mil setup at Olds. A 15/44 ends up the same as the stock ratio and a 14/43 ends up being about in the middle of the 15F 45/47R result. It would seem that running a smaller sprocket set both F/R and the correspondingly shorter chain would be beneficial as far as reduced unsprung weight and increased ground clearance. Here is a sprocket gearing/ratio chart: http://www.dropbears.com/u/utilities/sprocket.htm Jay From SanD.

Here is a link to the manufacturer: http://www.thunderproducts.com/dial_a_jet.htm It basically allows you to add more fuel if you are at a lean condition...I think. The question to ask yourself is...do you want to alter your jetting while you are riding? Chances are you are not going to add more fuel when your 'shee is running like a bat out of hell...which is what 2-strokes do when they are running lean!! Personally, I think you should find your proper jetting and then adjust it for significant altitude/temp changes using a well known system...like the Mikuni Pocket Tuner. Convert to Keihin numbers if needed. See it at: http://www.pingelonline.com/pocket_tuner.htm

Last Saturday night I rolled up to this hole-the-wall bar in El Cajon (do a search on flatbiller) on my '05 Kawasaki ZX10r and parked a space away from a Road Oiler (HD..Hardly Ableson). A couple of girls (a term I use kindly) and what I imagine to be the owner of one of the bikes were smogging (smoking) out front of the bar. One of the huskies barks out to me that my bike is "so cute" because it is "so small." She then went on about how her and her girlfriend both own and ride HD Sportster 1200s. I told her that my bike was just a little 1000 so that could explain the size thing. I guess she was impressed when I told her that It had dynoed at 167.5 RWHP because she said "oh," and trotted back into the bar. So the other girl said that she couldn't imagine riding some POS JapCrap and didn't care that it did over 100MPH in first gear. She didn't even smile when I told her the other 5 gears were just for better mileage. I told her that the Enkei wheels, Mikuni carb, and Showa forks/shocks made her bike perform better then the older Sporty in the parking lot, but I don't think it registered to her...so much for discussing trajectory and the time/space continuum... So now the guy chimes in and says that there is NO WAY he would EVER ride a Honda. I agreed with him on that. :thumbsup: Then I asked him... Why Do You Ride? His answer was...get this... "For The Fuckin' Freedom, Man!!." :shoothead: :shoothead: :shoothead: He then put his thumbs in his belt and was sooo proud of himself. ........WOW....... I just shook my head in disbelief..... So....today's questions to you is: Why do you ride?? :cool:

I was just thinking...If I run a couple of these plugs in series, I won't have to buy a timing plate to get my 4 degree advance!! Then I can buy even MORE plugs!! :yelrotflmao: Sweet.... Jay From San"D"

The B8 is one heat range hotter than a B9 series.

Check out this plug heat range chart. It's a copy of an NGK chart from the '70s... Rock on!! http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.html Maybe this qualifies as material to be pinned!! Jay From SanD iego.

There shouldn't be any reason to need to change to a hotter plug unless you have jetting issues if you are running pump gas. Here is a quick primer from NGK: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spar...&country=US Moral of the story...run the coldest plug you can that is hot enough to burn clean. Jay From SanD.

So far, I've learned that: 1. Champion plugs can give you a 2 degree ignition advance...I call it detonation or pre-ignition because the "lug" < :thumbsup: extends farther into the combustion chamber than needed. You get more "advance" the hotter the plug you run!! 2. They are a terrific value....$0.25 cheaper than those crappy NGKs. 3. Someone has invented a machine that allows you to track ignition advance independent of the actual ignition timing position. 4. Something I'd never thought about until now...new plugs give you more HP than old ones!! I was gonna do a whole figuring out the distance light travels in the time it takes for a crank with a (rough) circumference of 565.2MM to move 2 degrees (about 3.14MM) which is .0000000001047391258928 of a second static, but without the RPM, I can't figure out the equation because it MUST be relative to crankshaft speed if it slows the passage of time to allow the spark to reach the tip faster than the speed of light unaided. Since the the speed of light is a constant that doesn't change, it must be due to a shift in relative time. Think Stargate. More RPM = a greater slowing of time, which allows more advance. Therefore, it can't just be a 2 degree advance, because it is obviously variable. Thank you Stephen Hawking for that Brief History Of Time.

I took the Evelyn Woodhead Speed Reading Course. Their secret to reading quickly is they teach you to avoid postings that double as prime numbers....maybe I'll demand a refund. I read it quickly but something was lost in the comprehension... I'll call them at 235-711-1317 :cool: