jayzx10r

:woot: :woot: :woot: :woot: SMACK!!!!!! You got him on that one!!! :woot: :woot: :woot: :woot:

I just read up on the TC-W3 spec and much of the performance criteria has to do with corrosion resistance, emissions, and other marine based needs. For their testing, they run an outboard 5 minutes at idle, then 55 minutes WOT (Wide Open Throttle) 98 times...a 98 hour test, then take the motor apart for inspection. Of significance, I find that they are using comparatively low performance engines for their 98 hour test procedure. I consider a 913cc 70HP motor that redlines at 5000RPM an unstressed engine in comparison to our 65HP 350cc 9500RPM (average for a base line) motors. Anther point is their water temp output spec of 130 degrees...ours is somewhere closer to 190-200. I'm sure this temp variance is a consideration in the formulation and design of the oil package. Finally, they have to meet EPA requirements for clean burning emissions to satisfy Federal regulations. This probably isn't best for your motor, but better for the environment. My opinion is that because outboards run significantly cooler than your Banshee or Weed Wacker, the oil will burn off earlier than you want it to...resulting in insufficient lubrication at some level. Also, we run a motor that is 1/3 the displacement size at twice the RPM as the test outboard motor...so our motors are stressed 6 times greater under load than theirs. So the difference in operating temperatures as well as the low performance engines this oil is designed for, and the prioritization of emissions output mandates would make me decide NOT to use TC-W3 Outboard oil in my 'Shee now that I know better. When I was a kid, I used Pennzoil 30W automotive engine oil as 2-stroke premix oil in my POS mini-bike and it worked as long as I had it. Would I choose to do that now?? That is the question you have to answer now!! Hope that helps...Jay from SanD. BTW: It sucks that I can go to West Marine and buy a 2 1/2 gallon jug of outboard oil for $19.00...about the same as 2 quarts of 2R!!! You know we are gettin' hosed....

Thinking of "upgrading" my exhaust because I have those "crappy" FMFs and the grass always looks sooooo much greener on the other side of the fence. I've had people tell me that my Fattys are great and only get better the more mods you do to the motor while others have said I'd get just as good performance from a Briggs & Stratton muffler. :yelrotflmao: So last night I found some non-archived dyno runs that used to be posted on the Toomey Website as an advertising tool for their T6 series pipes. What I find interesting is that even in their own dyno runs, Toomey finds the FMFs outperformed the good ol' T5!! No wonder they took this off their site!!! Check out the comparo: Have an opinion? Was thinking of going from Fattys to T5s or CPIs for sand only. T5s pull 48HP peak. FMFs pull 51HP and peak higher than T5s. Paul Turners hit 51HP. Pro Circuit flattens at 50HP. CPIs obviously not the right chamber for a stock motor!!! I don't really know how relevant any of this info is for me since my motor is +4 stroked, ported, and carbed. Anyone know of a source of dyno runs of multiple exhaust manufacturers performed on a modded motor? Jay From SanD.

That....and the right to carry concealed...

Here is a pic of a Wiseco piston as I pulled it from my RD350...a good one for the avatar. Kinda thought the one with the girls was a waste cause it was too small. See what I mean??

Gotta work on Saturday...but I can go Sunday and Monday!! Otherwise, I think the weekend after will be my first.....

I suppose you could run a flag with this..... Tuning Forks ON A HONDA!!

Linked to a 404 for me...file not found. I'll check out some of your recommendations...... for the heads up!!

These are what I'm currently running....maybe I should get Outerwears instead of the Uni cover??

It's the right page...you just have to sign up. It is free to do it, and I have NEVER been spammed. Upper right...about an inch down, click on sign up and go from there. After you register, all you do is drop a key work for what you want. For instance, if you type the words Metal Shop it brings you a station just like the one from the '80s. Key a band name and you have a plethora of choices to pick from. If you use the free account, you get a commercial to join to listen commercial free once in a while...but no biggie. If you have trouble, let me know...

You can get everything you EVER need for your computer....FREE...at: http://www.cnet.com/ Here is a link to Adaware...a freebee that I like: http://reviews.cnet.com/internet-security-...?tag=prod.txt.3 Hope this helps. You can search by user rating....pretty cool!! Jay From SanD.

http://www.live365.com/ Awesome Free Music All Day!!! I just listened to Gwar :yelrotflmao: and Sepultura. :cool:

You just gotta run your words through this translator.... http://ssshotaru.homestead.com/files/aolertranslator.html

I called Scat-Trak tech (talked to Larry--nice guy) and before I told him how far off the paddles were, I asked him what the company considered nominal spec for symmetrical paddle placement. He told me that the tires are all made by hand, so absolute perfection is impossible. Then he said that they shoot for 1/8" between paddle deviation, but 1/4" is as far off as they like to see them. So I said that something over 1/2" would be out of the question and he replied that "anything over 1/2" off would be unridable at speed." So I told him I had just received a brand new set of 21x12x8 8 paddle haulers that one tire was 1 5/8" off and the other tire was off by 1 1/4" on paddle placement...he said they should have never left the building!! Here is a tidbit for thought: :geek: At 63MPH, the rear wheel of this 66" rollout wheel is pulling 1008 RPM at speed...or 16.8 RPM per second. 1200RPM@75MPH is 20 RPM per second. I don't know what those individual paddles weigh, but relative to the buffed tire carcass, they are significant. But I do know that non-symmetrical centrifugal forces increase exponentially to the square of the speed and so only magnifies those imperfections.... Or maybe it doesn't matter... :shrug: Looking forward to my new tires!! :thumbsup: Jay From SanD.

Hyperlite33 sent me 3 stock clutch springs and not only did he not charge me for the parts...he wouldn't accept compensation for the shipping cost of 4 stamps!! :beer: :beer: Just got them today...Thanks for the parts, man!!! :beer: :beer: First couple are on me!!! Jay From SanD.

Looks pretty good...$175 with 19 hours to go.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LONESTAR-CH...tem230174596333

There is a nice +2" Lonestar Chrome on Fe(eBay) that ends Sep-30-07 06:17:27 PDT. Same one I have -the chrome. Good Piece. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LONESTAR-CH...tem230174596333 Keep me in mind for those pipes!!! Jay.

Here is the ultimate cooling device for your liquid cooled Banshee. Tell people they were smoked by an RD350!! Customize your bike with this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HEAT-EXCHAN...1QQcmdZViewItem Sweet :yelrotflmao:

Sport Bump!!

It looks like Hyperlite33 is getting these out to me.....Thanks A Lot For the Springs!! If we ever cross paths, the first couple are on me! :beer: :beer: Thanks!! Jay From San Diego.

I called Skat-Trak today. They told me the paddles should be spaced within 1/4" typically, unusable over 1/2" so back to RMATV they go!! I have nothing but good things to say about RMATV. Quick shipping and no hassles on my return RMA# and covering the return shipping. AAA+!!

I just received my Brand New Skat-Trak 21x12x8 8 paddle haulers from RMATV today. I ripped open the packaging and right away it iwas obvious that the paddles are NOT evenly spaced.... Measurements taken from the center top to top of each cup. Wheel 1: 8-15/16", 7-3/8", 8-1/2", 8-1/2", 8-3/4", 8", 8-7/8", 8-9/16". Max variance 1-5/8". Wheel 2: 8-5/8", 7-5/8", 8-3/8", 8-5/8", 7-7/8", 8-7/8", 7-3/4", 8-9/16". Max variance 1-1/4" This appears to be really crappy workmanship to me . On tire 1, how out of balance is the tire going to be with the nearly 9" gap next to a 7.3" gap, etc, etc, etc when I'm rolling wound out up the hill?? The same with tire 2? I think this is weak. Am I being overly picky or do you think I'm gonna have significant out of balance issues too? I've balanced a lot of street bike tires, and balance is really important...not to mention easier on the machine. My last set of Haulers were evenly spaced and they were great!! I'm not feeling that here. What'cha think?? Is this gonna be a return item to RMATV? Jay From SanD.

I have 2 clamp on filters clamped directly to the carbs.... So should I quit using the Uni Filter Wrap and get a set of Outerwears?? I have not seen any grit in my carbs yet but I don't want to, either!! I didn't realize this is one of those subjective issues...like oil choice. If what I have is as good as it gets...or needs to be...I'll keep it. But if it is inferior, I'd rather change it now rather than a top end later!! Thanks, Jay. BTW: I guess I erased the first couple of votes. I thought that if I clicked the "null vote" button, I could see the results and it would only nullify MY ability to vote. It isn't like I want to vote on something I'm asking questions about!!

I agree with that...it doesn't matter when you are running 50W oil!!

Another easy way to get more light is to use the PIAA replacement H6M bulb. Substantially brighter and whiter light on the cheap!! Plus, dial in one of those YFZ4fiddy LED tail lights for more energy savings on the stock stator!!