jayzx10r

I'll cop to my 3 posts...one which was a "what tire is best for....Bla-bla-bla". The others were about unsprung weight and tire weight of haulers. GUILTY!! HaHa. Maybe baldies in back are best!!

You have a nice set of ported cylinders there, so I have to ask... Why didn't you port the pistons so they would match up with the cylinder porting better? It looks kinda restrictive when the piston post is open to the intake tract. The Wiseco Racer's Choice HP series 842s have a wider piston port and a narrower bridge between each piston port so even they do it!! Opening up the piston port and matching the skirt cutaway is a mod I've done to my Yamaha 2-stroke 2 cylinder motors since my first RD-350. I can't say that I've ever experienced a piston failure because of this mod. I'm not saying I haven't experienced piston failure...just look at my avatar!! You don't change the top or bottom, just widen side to side a bit... Just don't go crazy!!

Yea...I'm not looking to buy, I'm just interested in the engineering. I've had both H1 and H2 triples...they made a pretty unique sound when the were getting on the pipe(s)!! I was wondering about the components...if everything is pretty much Banshee spec or if everything was custom. Like if it used Yamaha spec con rods, flywheel, trans, ext and what the displacement was. I have enough fun on my Banshee and rarely would want more power...well, maybe a little more!! And a little more and a little more. :yelrotflmao: Naah, just a passing interest in all things mechanical....

Get a recommendation from Passion. That would be your best bet. Probably put you in the ballpark.

http://www.keihin-us.com/pwk.htm PWK Carburetors Standard Jetting SIZE....................MAIN JET...SLOW JET...JET NEEDLE...THR.VALVE STANDARD PWK 28MM 29S.....#135........#38...........46JH.............C.A. 3.5 PWK 33MM S46.....#165........#52...........48CGL..........C.A. 6.0 PWK 35MM 70R.....#160........#68...........48DGK..........C.A. 6.0 PWK 38MM 71R.....#172........#58...........48DEG..........C.A. 6.0 PWK 39MM 72R.....#160........#60...........48DGH..........C.A. 6.0 Quadvents/Air Strikers PWK 35MM S65.....#160........#48............48dek..........C.A. 4.5 PWK 36MM S63.....#165........#55............48DGJ..........C.A. 5.0 PWK 38MM S66.....#170........#55............48DDJ..........C.A. 7.0 I run PWK33s and I've gone from the standard #165 down to #150 main and from #52 pilot/slow jet to a #48...and it is still rich. I'm gonna run smaller pilots nest time out. I'm only telling you this as a reference....my jetting is to my motor, not yours. That being said, I've found that factory Keihin jetting is always waaaaayyy rich. I guess they want it to run, but not damage your motor so you can tune it. Think liability :geek: So your stock needle should be a 48DEK. Keihin has a pretty good jetting guide you can use to assist you in jetting when used in conjunction with the "How To" articles at the top of this forum (Thanks SREDISH). http://www.keihin-us.com/am/_media/pdf/slide_valve.pdf Hope this helps.. :thumbsup: Jay From SanD.

This may be a NooB question...but what is a Twister? I did a Google search and came up empty. It obviously is a different motor, but it fits in a Banshee chassis. What 'shee components are used...if any? What kind of power are these putting out? What size are they? It sure isn't an H1 or H2.... :cool: Man, if I was building a banshee motor from scratch, I'd make the case fit 2 YZ250 cylinders with power valves...that would be sweet!! :thumbsup: Now THAT would be cool....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...ksid=p1638.m118 $15.00 shipping....better hurry if you want these!!

LMAO!! :yelrotflmao: I thought maybe you started another new project!!

I'd think if you are trying to showcase your quad, you need something that stands out.... How about a bright Blood Red (like Porsche) that fades with Blue vein more as it trails to the back...or just equally applied to tone it down a bit. Red and blue vein frame cradling your black and chrome motor against blue plastic would look good. If you go dark, the frame will kind of get lost in the background. Dark colors look great when you are close, but you don't really notice it isn't black from a distance. But if you primarily want to bring attention to your motor or suspension, go dark. If you want to stand out...go BRIGHT!! Just don't go Miami Vice... :woot: Lime Green is reserved for Kawasaki!!

I forgot to ask what type of riding you do. I have 2 sets of rear wheels/tires. One set is the 21x12x8" Haulers and the other is 21x12x10 Skat Trak II V Paddle tires. They are both great at their intended purpose and are compromised at the other. By that, I mean the haulers are outstanding in straight line riding, but are not so much fun trying to slide around in turns and bowls. You can get them to slide, but then they hook up and sling shot you out. The SK IIs don't have the same bite as the Haulers drag racing up the hill (but are still fun to hill shoot with) and probably cost a few bike lengths by the time you get to the top, but they are WAAAAYYYY more fun to ride on in the dunes for just general play riding. No comparison in that context. So it really depends on the type of riding you plan on doing. I know some may disagree with my experience but this is just my observation with what I've done so far. Maybe the 10" haulers are flatter and would work better than my 8" rim 21"s would because my tires are pretty much shaped like a donut and not so sliding friendly, but I can't verify that. There are a million V Paddle versus Hauler posts on this forum but the short version is if you race, you need Haulers...if you dune more, V Paddles would be probably more fulfilling. As for your 9" wheels: Buy new wheels...the aluminum is nice and light...it does make a difference!! I just looked at the RMATV site and the only Haulers they have for a 9" rim are 20x11x9 8 paddle tires. They run $102 each or $204 for the pair. You might as well spend the extra $15 and have a set of mounted wheels on nice, light, shiny new aluminum wheels!!

Give Daryl a shout....sand tires are his business. http://www.sandtires.com/ Nice guy to chat with. I'm running 21x12x8 8 paddle and am happy with the way they work. I'm slightly slower off the line occasionally (not every time, only sometimes) but usually make it up after 50'-75' or so...and it just keeps pulling. Since this is my first quad, I don't have a lot of personal experience, but it seems that tire selection depends on your sand type and length of run too. If you are hitting a short hill, then getting off the line is probably most important. More paddles wouild be better. But if you are running a longer hill like Olds, you may actually prefer a little bit of spin to run in the powerband better. 8 or 9 paddle may be better for you. Like I said, I'm running 8 paddles. I bought my 21x12x8x8s at http://www.rockymountainatv.com/home.do for a pretty good price...about $210 shipped. Great Customer Service too!! :thumbsup: I think the 21x12x8 10 paddle tires were about $230 shipped. Jay From SanD.

Not hatin on ya, but you might as well wear a sign that says: :shoothead: KICK ME!! :shoothead: I'm sure your riding experience will be better now.... Congrats on the upgrade... :thumbsup:

The look of the chrome isn't an end all for me, but you have to admit...NICE chrome does look GOOD!! I have not seen the "turn down" style K&Ns, mine are a straight mount pod style...6"long and 3 1/2 " around. I don't have a lot of room for a cruddy fitting stinger. Those Cascade wraps would work though. I'm sorta liking the way it sounds the CPIs would work out because I like some mid for duning. Here is mine...I have Outerwears over dry UNI filter wraps, over oiled K&Ns. Prolly a bit overkill....

High bid was $102.00!! Reserve not met. I guess the market has spoken!!

Yea man...it is sitting at the bottom of that U shaped pipe right under your sink. A pipe wrench and you are golden. I have to say it.... It's called a P trap. Just a Beavis moment there.... Uh-huh-huh Huh-huh-a.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-dra...1QQcmdZViewItem BIN is $550. Currently at $51.00-reserve not met. Large flange, big bore.

Is your measurement ID or OD? The thread starter measured his as 1" OD...that may translate into 7/8ths" ID. I'd like to know the proper measurement as well because I've found some used CPIs that are 1"OD and the owner doesn't know if they are SM or BB... Neither do I!!

I'm still trying to figure out what the direct benefit of installing these reeds is..... :ermm: If it doesn't make more power either lower, mid, or on the top end, is the primary improvement just a snappier throttle? Since I already have Boyesen dual-stage reeds, haven't I already picked up most of the improvement to be had from a reed mod? Thanks, Jay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-YFZ-...1QQcmdZViewItem $185 right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/30MM-D-slid...1QQcmdZViewItem

Don't the CPIs fit horribly?? Can anyone post a photo of the stingers under the seat where they run near the carbs/air filters? I'm running 6" long K&Ns with Outerwears....I'd hate to burn them up!!

I have an opportunity to pick up a set of brand new chrome T-5s for $360. Do you think I should do it to get a harder mid/top end hit? Is it worth the expense and hassle? Will the change be significant? While I can't find fault in my FMFs, I could use a longer rev out. I only ride in the sand (50/50 dune/drag) at Glamis or Buttercup and my mods are listed in my sig. What'cha think? Jay.

Looks like a great deal!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-yfz...1QQcmdZViewItem Bid at $100...BIN $150. ENDS TODAY!!!

$35 to start + $4.60 shipping; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem