jayzx10r

How's it going man?? So you're looking to get rid of your oversize tank, huh? I might be interested in it. Feel free to PM your lowball price so I don't have to do the work... I think you said you're going to Glamis over Prez week so I can meet you there if it works out. If it were blue it would be better but if the price is right.... I have a dual line Pingle we can work in the deal if you need one. Jay.

I've got your Turbinator right here..... http://www.stickdeath.com/martyr.html

On my machine, the Fatty's work best. I remember a while back Toomey was trying to show why their T-6 was bomb-diggity. Their dyno graph showed the Fatty to be superior in power at all levels (not by much) than the T-5. One of the characteristics people like about the T-5's is the "top end hit." My assertion is it feels that way because they have a weak midrange so the transition gives a nice rush.....but still lower HP numbers than the Fatty's. Now don't jump to conclusions here....they have removed the old Fatty dyno sheet. They don't specify whether they jetted appropriately, but using their T-6 as a baseline, compare the T-5's to the SST's. You'll see what I mean. http://www.atvsource.com/articles/press_releases/2003/022103_toomey_racing_tr6_racing_power_pipe.htm Remember!!! Pipes need to match porting!!!

I have a 4mil and have tried CPI's, T-5's and Fatty's on mine. The Fatty's worked best on my motor with it's particular porting...that being said, to say your motor is ported is extremely vague. Porting type, altitude, compression, primary intended use, and internal mods are all considerations to determine parts selection. If you had a trail port, you would HATE CPI's but maybe prefer a 2 into 1 setup or something of comparable performance. If you had a drag port, just about any pipe but CPI's or Shearers would hold you back. When they say that CPI's have good mid range, they mean good for a drag pipe...not even close to a Fatty or T-5. I lost every race with CPI's over the one weekend I ran them. Every race. I win most races I get into and I run Fatty's. IMHO an underrated pipe that gets badmouthed by everyone that's never owned them. For me, they offer better low-mid-top end than the T-5's I ran for a month. See, it's all about your components complimenting each other. When they work in harmony, you can beat a supposedly "higher performance" quad....sometime less is more!! There's vid in the viddy section to prove it!! :-) As to the longevity question, I disagree with those that say the pipes won't make a difference. The reason I disagree is that you run the CPI's a couple thousand RPM higher than Fatty's or T-5's (to get that T-5's on steroids thing) and everyone knows that inertial loading and wear is increase relative to the square of RPM so if you can get it done at a lower RPM your motor will last longer...like mine has so far!! It's easy to get caught up in the numbers game here but you have to remember that trails favor good, crisp throttle response with torque in the midrange. Running drag pipes doesn't make sense to get better performance for that 1% of the time it would be great to negatively impact the 99% of the time better midrange would suffer. My $0.02.

I'll be on Pad 3 from the 16th-21st coming out from San Diego. If you wrong coasters need me to bring out some parts just PM me and I'll pick 'em up on the way. Look for the "Camp Host" site....I'll be there!! I'll have orange safety cones on the roof of my 80's sand colored 28' class A RV.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones...I haven't had any issues with my Ricky Stator 200w in the 4 years I've been running in the dunes. I pull 160 watts worth of lights at night too!! I've seen a couple of the ES stators and I have to say they are the brand I'd probably buy if I were in the market.

X2 on the RK. They are my chain of choice and a few extra bucks spent here translates into a drive that lasts longer overall.....

This place is on the way to Glamis a couple of blocks off the freeway in El Cajon (15 miles east of San Diego): http://www.motoworldracing.com/index.htm It's a ATV friendly shop that has everything you should need....oil, chemicals, passes, etc. The next exit east off the freeway has race fuel at the pump...across the street from Arco.

That's why I put it in A-B-C format....you can do each category easily but should consider doing all the work at the same time in each level IMHO. You can pick up a head already done pretty cheap or have a head fly cut for 25-30 bux. You can always post an ad in the "Wanted" section and see what comes up...

Hey Mike, I believe that aftermarket reed cages can realize some degree of performance enhancement by drag motors but real world motors don't really derive significant benefit from them. I run the Boyesen Power Reeds (the 2 stage fiberglass version P/N #645) and am completely satisfied with them. Carbon reeds don't last anywhere near as long and are prone to failure with greater frequency as well....not qualities what one looks for in a reliable runner. As for the cost, they retail for around $25.00 a set so you should be able to outfit your machine for less than 60 bux. As for pipes, I've no experience with Pro Circuits, but I have used CPI's, Toomey T-5's, and FMF Fatty's...I'm a sand duner. I kept the Fatty's and sold the rest...but understand that pipe selection should be based on your engine mods and riding style. I like the fit and finish on the Fatty's too...as well as the used price. They can be found cheeaappp in great condition online or in the "for sale" section on this site. If you are going to leave the motor stock and just change the pipes, filter and jetting, T-6 pipes might be a good choice....but no one stops modding there!! A lot of people drag race on this forum so when you ask for mod ideas, understand that their upgrade experiences may be different than what you're looking for. A typical upgrade list order of operations might include: A. Exhaust, filters, jetting. B. Welded crank, porting, interchangeable domes head, Wiseco forged pistons. C. Adjustable timing plate, upgraded stator, reasonably sized larger carbs. Try to think of what you want as an end result and pick your mods with that result in mind. An end result package with parts that work harmoniously together will always work better than something that works against itself because of a bad parts choice install. Suspension should be upgraded as well but that's another question from you...lol. And I smoked a Cub this weekend at Glamis 3 out of 3 times at the strip last weekend too!! I have a couple of BHQ witnesses on that one....lol.

I think I might go.......

Hope you had a good time. I sat out the weekend with a cold.

Where are you going to be? I could bust out my YZ and hang for the day if things work out for me this week.

I'll be at Glamis for all the big weekends...I was there for Halloween, last weekend, gonna head out the day after Thanksgiving, will be there for New Years and Prez weekends too. I like the bigger crouds...makes it more fun for night riding!! Jason and Anthony will be out there most of those times as well. I'm usually on Pad 3 but will camp anywhere there's a group...I hit it most weekends so if your gonna hit it--PM me and we'll meet up!!

I agree with Zilla....you did say you wanted the best!! Otherwise, if you're looking for real good/cost effective you can't beat a decent set of +2/+1 arms with a +2 swingarm in conjunction with aftermarket shocks. It all depends on how much you wanna spend. The draggers will tell you to get a +4 or longer swinger but for duning...the shorter the better. The longer it is, the shittier it is for Glamis duning. I run a +2 and have no regrets. A great upgrade is to get a roundhouse carrier. The stock design blows.

Gonna hit up Glamis this weekend with a couple other people, gotta get out and dune.... I'll be parked on Pad 3 and will have an orange cone on the roof of my '80's sand colored RV. Leaving Friday morning so get in touch if you want to meet up!!

The particulars are pretty specific about using DC only current. It states AC has a short life.... Maybe you have the DC conversion already??

7 hours and I'm outta here!!!

I took my LTZ400 out in the trails, rocks, and fireroads while my bud rode his Banshee. I had a way better time than he did because my suspension design isn't something from the '80's and the powerband is user friendly. I thought it was the perfect trail quad. You get much wider (any of the 450's) and it could be a handful...not to mention the LTZ400 motor will probably last a lot longer than any of the high output grenade prone 450's. Jason used 3/4ths of a tank of fuel, I used a couple inches...lol. All I have done to mine is a full exhaust, rejetted, and a Velocity air filter kit, I'm real happy with it. Only look at '05 and newer if you gonna consider the SuZook. I have a modded Banshee I ride in the sand...and a LTZ400 for everywhere else I don't ride the YZ250.

Not attacking anyone here but there is no reason to change your oil all that frequently.... My official Yamaha RZ350 manual stated oil changes should be every 16,000 (sixteen thousand) miles. My official Yamaha Banshee manual states oil changes should be once a year. My educated guess is that since Banshees don't have odometers, they decided to just call for annual oil changes to keep it simple. Most old school gear boxes go for 30,000 miles before oil changes so it isn't exactly a far reach here guys..... And my oil of choice is Shell Rotella T synthetic 15w40. I have a magnetic plug and I have zero shavings as well. My $0.02.

$3.00. See rule #3. Do I win the bidding war?

PM sent.

All automotive 10/30w oils have a friction modifier in them. Look at your bottle and if you see anything that states it is an "energy conserving" oil, Don't Use It!!! Wet clutches and these oils don't' play well together....

Less than 3 weeks to go for the Glamis Halloween Kick Off Weekend. I know of a few that are gonna be there....anyone else planning on showing?? I'm camping on Pad 3. Let's beat up on some 4 pokes!!

x2 on the silicon. That's what I did. Scrape it flat and it blends in perfectly.