jayzx10r

Cycle Parts West might have something in stock for you, otherwise pick up some Goof-Off at Home Depot to clean off the left over glue from when you peel off the rest of your graphics. Chapparal is a long drive for graphics, but they probably have what you want.

Call ICE on the little bastard. Destruction of personal property should be a deportable offense!!! x2 on the no sticker look.

What about in the sand? Every dirt bike I took out to the sand started pissing oil at the rear shock so I bought covers for my Banshee. Are you saying that it would be better for my Axis shocks to take the covers off?

Trade your cylinders for an aggressive dune port setup, then run your bolt ons. For the best final result, parts need to work in harmony with each other, not against. Drag cylinders with small carbs suck. Pipes designed for midrange don't work well on cylinders set up for high RPM. Dragger motors are far from optimum for duning...in fact, they make for a miserable time (comparatively). For duning, you want midrange snap and mid/high. Not only the last 3000RPM the motor can deliver.

I have one. I like the fact that I rarely ever see one on a quad at Glamis.

You're right...this ain't no $2200 Banshee. But for $2500 you can get: Pro Circuit pipes, re-jetted, K&N filter, extended swing arm, 4" wider lonestar crome-moly axle, billet hubs, billet axle carrier, works triple rate shocks, laser star lights, renthal bars, cooler rack, sand and dirt tires.....bla bla bla, http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/mcy/2701922898.html

Did you read my post? Since you live in a state that requires paperwork (I don't understand why all states don't at least want proof of ownership/title) I don't get why you didn't clarify your needs first. You have to know that titled, papered frames aren't <$100. Where is your responsibility in this transaction?

Everyone has an opinion....so I'll toss in my $.02. I live in a state that requires ATV's to be titled and registered...apparently rocz does as well. I would NEVER but a frame or untitled ATV.....because it's not transferable/registrable in my state. If I were to buy an untitled frame or ATV, try to register it, then demand my money back for any reason would make me a Douche Nozzle. That's why it's cheap. I've had opportunity to pay less for vehicles without papers but don't fucking do it because I'm responsible for my actions. JD could have sold this frame to anyone in a state that doesn't require registration but now he's out because rocz was too cheap to pay more for a frame with papers....as required by his state. JD got fucked on this deal. Rocz should give him his money back...he's the one that lost out. I see ads all the time...with title-$300, no title-$150. You spend $150, you get a frame you NEVER title!! At least if you're a stand up guy that's responsible for his decisions. Fucking Asshat.

Buy 'em here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-FMF-reeds-and-cages-aftermarket-/120794838323

Looks like CrazyCat needs to get Titan Racing onboard as a sponsor!!!

It looks like you've removed some material from between the cylinders..... If you have the tooling, I think I'd try to blend the junction better by removing more material below the mating point so it was more vertical there. I think you'll have swirling due to the low pressure point you've cut in since you're forcing air from a piston at moving at 56 feet per second average. The velocity at 90 degrees crank angle in conjunction with the small transfers will have a significantly increased flow rate than merely piston speed so IMHO it's all about the blending..... I usually port my pistons a little bit and may match the case as well next time I have it apart.

Welcome to the HQ. If you found rocks in your reeds, then you've sucked other gritty stuff through your motor. Not the best thing for longevity...do a compression test. As for your reed question, it's not that simple. There are variables you have to answer first. If your a drag racer and longevity is second to a fractional performance gain, VF3's are what you'd want. If you want the best performing, long term answer....that would be the 2 stage replacement reeds sold by Boyesen. They will last years w/o issue and give the same HP numbers. So: Racing to win....gotta go with VF3 because you already spend thousands on you motor and you'll get shit from your friends if you don't waste your money on reeds like they did . Riding and having fun: Boyesen 2-stage on stock cages (or Chariot cages) because they last forever and Carbon Fiber is the worst material imaginable to be used in a flexible use environment. Guess what I use..... Oh, and buy an air filter!! No rocks allowed!!

Maybe the thing to do is call Kevin and ask him what the differences are between the two. My understanding is that he's a straight shooter.

I'll be on Pad 3....as always!! 28-30th.

P.M. Jason.

While technically you can do it, why would you want to? What I mean is....compression tests should be run on a warm motor. To do it cold will not give an accurate representation of compression IMHO.

Since Halloween is on Monday, are you going the weekend before or after?

You don't see hardly and Duncan's out there..... It's about the only part from them I'd buy!! lol.

The countdown has begun. Six and counting..... Who's in for the 28-30 kickoff??

I'm from the city so I gotta ask. Why did you kill it? Do you eat it? What do you do with it. I'm not a vegan hippie, I'm really wondering what you'd do with it.

I did the Banshee shock "upgrade" on my Blaster. You are going the other way so here is what I remember.... The stock Blaster shocks have a stiffer spring rate than the stock Banshee shocks. The Blaster shocks are more than 1/2" shorter than Banshee shocks. Blaster shocks had significantly smaller/shorter coils than the Banshee version....as far as stock shocks go. So, smaller, shorter, stiffer following stocker spec. As far as what parameters Elka changes....IDK.

The Kenda's are pretty heavy plus the rib isn't shaved to a point, so it doesn't cut into the sand like my STU's. However, if you're looking at tires at that price point, I like these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GBC-Dune-Trakker-ATV-Sand-Tire-22-8-10-/140530141919?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b83fcadf Jay in SanD.

Heading out this weekend and gonna be on Pad 3. IDK how many more trips I can squeeze out this season but it's gonna start warming up there so now is the time to go!! Should be some awesome night riding fer-sher!!

I run a +2, but I'm far from a serval. Still, for duning...the shorter, the better. Swingers that are +6 blow blow for duning. Don't get me wrong, you can ride, but it's no where near as much fun as a with shorter swinger. There is only 2 reasons for a longer swinger....launching while drag racing or doing hill climbs/tree shoots. The desire to improve the first 3 seconds of that type of riding negatively impacts all the hours of riding you aren't dropping the clutch from a dead stop. Drifting, power sliding, and general turning/duning suffer with a longer swinger, but my experience is solely limited to riding at Glamis/Buttercup/Gordons. I've heard that different areas have different sand consistency and may require a different setup. I've ridden both a +4 and a +6 at Glamis and thought they were increasingly worse as the length increased. But then again, I'm a 95% duner, 5% dragger. However, if/when I do a serval, I'm not gonna go longer than what I have now....+2 Lonestar.

Looks like it was ported by a groundhog!!