RagunCajun

fixed

It depends what size rear tires. I run 15/41 on my 521 serval but it has 22" rears.

My lightened flywheel split and caused me a days ride. Never again. Now if there was an added weight version, id try it to maybe tame down the power and gain a little traction.

Id do regular stamped pies and put the money toward suspension and tires. If you already have that, then save the money. I would get with driveline if that's the cylinders you want. They can tell you which carbs and pipes will best suit you.

thank you. I used and always use a feeler gauge. Max file size for attachments is 100kb so I cant upload pictures. It looks the same besides I fixed the stripped gas tank screws last weekend which really isnt noticeable with the seat on.

May be a long shot, but make sure the cross over tube is there if it's stock carbs.

The flywheel cracked so I replaced that with an oem flywheel, fixed the crank, set pickup gap etc. I don't remember if this was an issue before that. edit 8\12\23: Dropped the pilots from 55 to 52. The idle did not drop nearly as much. I still need to adjust the air screws. I guess rich pilots were the issue. It also passed a leakdown test before i changed the pilots.

I'm having issues setting my idle correctly. The idle drops too low once it warms up. I put the dynatek ecu I had lying around to see if it's an ecu issue. I also cleaned the carbs, made sure pilots and mains were clean as well. I put new spark plugs too. I screwed in the air screw a half turn at a time and no change. I also am able to screw in the idle screws in and it barely makes a difference. I can screw in the shifter side idle screw all the way and the bike barely idles higher to around 1250ish. Very strange. I don't think this is the ecu. The bike does have a slight bog off idle. Other than that, she runs nice and crispy. The issue has to be me and i'm over looking something simple.

My stock swing arm always worked fine and was easy to adjust. I run a yfz450 front master and raptor 700 front calipers. They do not look like stock banshee brake components but in a way look OEM. You could get some fox or elka shocks and have them power coated to match the stock shock's colors. Twice I went with a turbo chassis swing arm due to no logos or fancy stuff on it. It does not look stock or close to it. bolt kit: https://alloyboltz.com/product/659-pc-banshee-polished-stainless-steel-bolt-kit/

I kept blowing leds when the bike reved on a stock system. I now have a DC conversion with no battery and it's been fine.

I never did and I never had issues. I take my modified stock clutch cover off and it's easy to get to. I just added some weight last weekend. I don't even know if you can take the pressure plate off a sling shot with a lockout cover.

Id attach a picture of mine so someone can see if I have a spacer but the max file size is far too small. I'm not sure if mine does.

I posted a video in your hq facebook thread. If that's how yours is adjusted, then get a oem clutch cable and clutch lever. Then you'll see what the issue is. I have an ASV lever, motion pro cable and a lock up. I'm not sure how the manual says to adjust it. Mine works fine. (FYI: Base off of what some responses were over time in the FB group, some "off brands" pancake bearings wont allow the clutch to be properly adjusted. But if you bought something from a supporting vendor, you should be fine.)

I finally got tired of the stupid brace on my Mossberg Shockwave. I went establish a trust about a month ago. I should be getting the tax stamp within a week or two then i have a Magpul stock ill throw on to see how i like it. Pictures to come when that day comes.

non LT are 14 5/8". fireball says 18 1/2 - 19 1/4 for their long travel. Source (page 10 and 11):