rusty1100

Fast shipping, excellent to do business with. Great guy all around. Rusty

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to buy some new domes, I didn't even think about that when I changed the crank . Guess you learn as you go. EvilBanshee, that is exactly what it is doing, sounds crisper than it did even before all of this, so i'm gonna check that out too. I'm not going back to square one but do have to back up and punt, per say. Thanks again everyone. Thats why I love this place. Before you guys, I would have never even attepted to work on my own banshee.

Pasi S., on 14 October 2010 - 12:13 AM, said: I´m not an expert here but if your previous crank was 4mill 110rod and now you have stock stroke 110rod crank you have to change the domes for stock stroke. You stroke is now 54mm and it use to be 58mm. When your piston is at TDC it´s 2mm lower now. Your compression is lower and squish is huge IMO. Ok thanks for the info. I do know that my domes are 22+1 (the 21 I typed was a typo) with a noss cool head. How exactly again do I measure the squish, and what should it be? The clutch thing sounded so my simpler...lol. Thanks for all the help.

The guy that I bought it from did say that it had a mild port job. No I didn't change domes and I didn't have a spacer plate because it was a vitos crank with standard rod length. Would changing the domes help? Im running 21 right now. What would cause that and how do I fix it if it is the problem?

Well I burned up my 4 mill crank a while back and had to replace it with a stock crank because of money purposes, and now it revs high and even the powerband kicks in but doesn't go as fast as it is reving. It's kinda like a 4 cylinder car when your trying to pass someone and your rpms go way up but your barely gaining speed. What the crap do I need to do to fix this. One other thing I did was adjust my carbs so that when it is WOT, the slide is all the way up, and the idle screws arent touching anything, could this have something to do with it. I just installed lighter springs which replaced the screw in part on top of the carbs and thats what I used to adjust the slides, just screwed it out until the slides were all the way open when WOT. Thanks, Rusty

Ok thats what I was thinking. Guess I better pull it all apart again to make sure. Thanks for the info.

Just got my motor put back together and it has been two years since I took it apart so I can't remember if the cool head needs the tin(or whatever its made out of) head gasket or if the O rings are the only thing sealing it off. The reason I ask is because I just used the O rings and 1 blew out of the side and let antifreeze in my cylinder. Next question is do I need to drain all fluids and start over again or did the fluid just stay on top of the piston and just need to drain the radiator fluid and dry out the cylinder? Thanks for any answers. Ready to get back on the trails, after 2 years. Rusty

Thats funny.

Thats funny. I had to highlight it just to read it but it was hilarious.

Got a flywheel from him...excellent condition, good price , good communication and fast shipping....Awsome seller.

That's good that he is responding now, but that still wont fix the fact that half of the stuff is in poor condition or broke.