SkunkWerX

That answers it, AC system all the way. The HIDs need dcv. end of story. Thanks guys, probably saved me some $$$ :thumbsup:

That's what I was getting at, I knew it was AC out of the stator, but didn't know what was going to the headlights. Sounds like the lamps are taking AC??? I was going to put a volt meter on the lamp plug this weekend to check the output at idel and revving. I figured if these types of HIDs would work that you guys would be all over them. The 5K and 6K bulbs give off about 2x to 3x the useable light of the halogens on the Raptor. That's a HUGE gain for less than $100, and no upgrade to the stock system needed. This is what i figured the answer to be, it's almost too good to be true if they worked.

I tried a earch but the search engine kept bouncing me when "hid" was in the search bar, weird. Over at the Raptor forum they are having good luck with the new lower priced HID light set-ups. They are on, where else, Flea-bay. They draw 35w a piece, and specs say they operate from 9v to 16v source. My question is has anyone tried these, or have any thoughts about why they would work, or not work on a stock Banshee elec. system?? Here is a link, i don't know this seller, never used this seller, not trying to give him business, or anything like that, just an example of the ones the Raptor guys are using. (They have used this seller with supposedly good luck). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...627517&rd=1 A couple of riders have been running these for 6 months without trouble. Any thoughts on compatibility with Banshee system?

My son and I ride trails a lot. The gearing sounds good. The Pure Sport tires are harder rubber, they wear like steel, but, you are correct in thinking they might not be as good for hard trails. We run Maxxis Razrs on our Banshee and Raptor and love them. You have to watch going to really tall rear tires. We run the 22" Maxxis on the back, but, that changes your gear ratio at the ground. It's nice to get the extra clearance for trails, that's why we did it, but you go from 20" to 22" it's almost like going back from the 13 tooth front sprocket to the 14 toother. An after market swingarm guard is a MUST. I can show you old swingarm guards that we used in the past that have gashes and dents, surely enough to destroy a rotor or sprocket. Thicker is better in my book, but most of the name brands are decent. DG, AC, and the like. Shocks, what can I say? They are expensive, but they make a big difference on the trails. Big rocks and tree roots can jerk the bars out of your hands if you hit them right. We run triple rate springs with resrviors, they soak up so much shock you can ride a lot longer, and be less sore after a day riding through the mountains. if you can afford them, they are nice. If not right now, at least put a set of aftermarket front shocks on your wish list. Until then, Read the manual and adjust the spring tension on your stock shocks to get what can out of them. Good luck, sounds like you are already set-up for a good trail run, then, just dial in the features that you notice after a few rides. For now, run the Pure Sports at a little lower pressure to give them some squish.

Either way, Left and/or right, check for a pesky leak. These are the types of troubles that we end up learning from. Keep us posted.

Don't overlook an Intake Air Leak on the Right Side. With excess air getting in, you could get those symptoms. Once you are pouring the extra fuel to it 1/4 and up, it runs (albeit probably lean). But, you would have too much air to run at idle? possibly. I'd check for Air Leaks on right Side, it can't hurt, include the head gasket on that side too. I swore that I didn't have an Air Leak, and the leakdown test proved me wrong.

i wouldn't buy and/or install a new pilot until I had verified the problem. What altitude do you live, and what Altitude where you had the problem? (ie, do live near sea level and have the problem up in the mountains?) -Check for air leaks first -Try choke trick Then determine if you are dealing with a rick or lean issue. ONLY after all that should you start buying/replacing parts. Sometimes you cna get lucky, other times only make it worse, or mask the real problem. Take the time to figure it out, or at least geta decent idea of what is causing it. good luck. Pilot jets run about $6 apiece at Jets r Us. Mains run about $2.99 , don't quote me, but Pilots cost more for some reason.

First, make sure you don't have any intake leaks between the Carbs and intake. When you go for throttle it'll start sucking air from a leak, making it go lean, and bog. if no obvious leaks, You can then try the choke trick, to prove whether you need a larger pilot. Throw it to half-choke (after warming it up) , and see if the Bog gets worse or better from 0 to 1/4 throttle. If the bog gets better, or goes away, then you have proven that "richening" it is the key, and that calls for a larger pilot. I too think you can go up on your Mains. It screams at top, but, you could be screaming lean. 300 is a good place to go to for your set-up. it's Ok to go to higher numbers, [Rich] then work down. But, fix that low end bog first. If you upsize your pilot, you will be richening throughout your overall throttle range. Then you may find 280s or 290's OK, especially since colder weather is coming to Ohio. Good Luck. 1. Make sure you don't have any intake leaks, 2. then try the choke trick. (You don't need to run more than a couple minutes choked, it's not necessary only to prove the Bog is better or worse).

We'll do the idle test , sort out the Low end/Pilot. Then we'll move to the Main jet. Better to start on the rich end and work down. The AirScrews at 2.5 turns Out already says something. Good feeling to sort it out is RIGHT! Now I can devote some time (and money) to my virtually stock 660RaptorLE. Looking at the Yoshimura exhaust, K&N, intake and jetting.

First: THANKS TO EVERYONE. Second: It's done!! Put back together, and this thing SCREAMS now. I don't mean like "whoo hooo fun time" , I mean, like, "Death grip, neck snapping, Rocket ship to Jupiter!!" Good advice from Banshee HQ, I am a sworn believer in the Leak Down Test Fixed the Big leak, but found some minor ones too, took care of them, as well. Dajo, you da man. Product review: Permatex Stripped Thread Repair #81668 This stuff works. They don't advise for critical apps, like brakes, steering or internal motor. I would say the more threads you have left, the better it will work. Mine were still there, just wouldn't allow full tightening. Within 1 hour it was done, that includes full strength curing. Got it from Ace Hardware, but try anywhere that sells Permatex products. Before: 25 pilots, 250 mains and throw in an Air Leak or two. Right now we're running 32.5 pilots, 300 Mains. Pulled a plug, took a peak (no chop yet) and we are in the Ballpark. It likes the Airscrew 2.5 turns out. Not surprising with that 32.5 "piece of pipe" for a Pilot jet. Got the jets from Jet's R Us, they shipped very quick, and no problems. Thanks to all!! Good to go! :beer:

I think I am going to try to the permatex thread repair compound, first. And yes, I view it as a temporary fix. It will give me time to locate proper helicoils and/or TimeSerts. My research last night shows some promise for the permatex product, worth a try. Timeserts: http://www.threadkits.com/timeserts/timeserts.html I am eager to see if this is the only leak, it's certainly the largest, but, when you fix the large one, smaller ones can show. I'll give a review of the permatex product. I use loctite thread compounds on pressure fittings, up to 4500psi, but those are good solid threads, even the Red loctite won't act as a fastening surface. The permatex product adds "amterial" to the threads, which, in this case, is what is needed. - - - - - - Also, for plugging and sealing to perform the leak down test, I found some easily obtainable stuff. Ace Hardware had 1 1/4" plugs, in the plumbing department. They are designed to fit into an 1 1/4" pvc Fitting, which, has an ID of 1.5" , same as Banshee exhaust spigot ID. This is the kind that has a wingnut you turn to expand the rubber. Make sure you clean the carbon and soot out of the ID first for a good seal. OR, the OD of the exhaust spigot is 1 3/4" , so, a 1 3/4" diameter black rubber test cap, with hose clamp would work. For the intake boot, a 3/4" PVC end cap and the stock clamp is all that is needed. The exhaust, by far, is the most difficult to plug.

Anyone have any luck with permatex thread repair "Forma-thread"? http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.j...295869&cid= Also my mechanic buddy just told me about Timeserts, but, for a single repair they are pricey. And not readily available everywhere.

FOUND IT!!! found it -found it -found it!! Partially stripped M6 intake bolt. The kind of stripping that feels like it's tightening, but, doesn't quite tighten down all the way. This makes sense. Why you ask? because Hercules, aka: KingKong, aka: The incredible Hulk aka: Previous Owner tightened the livvin piss out of everything he touched!! I have drilled and easy outted two other bolts so far, one on the Toomey clamps. he also had float bowl leaks, and isntead of fixing the float valve, he kept tightening the bottom bleed screw so much I can't loosen them. OK, so, enough about people who shouldn't be allowed to over tighten bolts...... They are M6 threads, I measured depth, and had some more depth left in the hole, so I hoofed it up to Ace Hardware, they have a decent amount of metrics. Picked up another M6, longer, hoping it would grab some good thread down in the bottom, but, no luck. I can almost torque the leak out, but not quite. I tried loosening all and tightening that one first, but, just not quite enough "meat" left on it. So here is the question? Looks like 1/4-28 is next size up. I have taps. -Do I go ahead and tap it for 1/4-28? -Or, has anyone had any luck with compounds and retapping for same size? (JB Weld?) -Or, Helicoil type of repair ....to maintain same size?? Send Cards, Letters, even Flowers?? [sigh] I think this is the problem, definitely bleeds more than 1psi per minute.

An "interesting" dialogue, to say the least. I needed that laugh.

Thanks, I looked over all surfaces, intake, reeds, spacers, and boots. I'd give them all an overall 98% for clean & smooth. Not even a scratch. I've seen far, far worse still hold a good seal. More to report later tonite once I do: "Leak Test II" , "Return of the Bubble Monster". (yes, this problem is starting to affect my sanity). :shoothead: