Washburn
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Posts posted by Washburn
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Yeah my Banshee came with 21" Mudsharks on them. I like how they are super tough and they aare great for hillclimbs, mud, and rocks. I wore them down and went with Razr 2s now thats the only tire Im gonna run untill I go to a place like shamokin where I would need a tire Like a Mudshark to climb hills.
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I do the riding you said you do too and Im going to 1 AWRCS Race this year and I went with Lonestar Racing a arms because they are beefy and tough as all hell and Elka Elites all around with a LT rear Elka on their LT Linkage. Its crazy how good iit handels couldent have asked for more.
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I like the GPR ones better than anything and you need a Lonestar Rolldesign antivibe for those to work anyhow. 8 Cliccks on the fly!
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Pffffffffft rent can wait, stick it up your landlords ass and start saying couchie chuchie, Get them Elkas son.
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Elkas and believe me Ive tested both on many bikes and Elka wins for so many reasons.
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try a dek or an eek, or an eej. take the main to 190-195, and pilot to a 45 to start.
Im not sure what needel is in mine I know its on the 3rd clip though and I have a single PWK35 and Im running a 195 main and a 48 piolet at 1800 asl and its perfect.
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macdizzy is the man. He shows you how to port and what you would ger with him. Like I always say portinng is a simple process if you have the maps. But they cost unless you have a really cool builder :cool:
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do it. I got my Noss Head w 20cc domes and loved it gained alot of lowend. then I got my VF3s loved the extra hit it gave me. Then the timing plate +4 and my 2:1 carb setup now I have a bunch more low and mid. I also bought some PT Mids but havent put them on yet. My sig will be true in 2 weeks when I get to my quad Im running TR6s currently.
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Whats up Jay, so you dident get to test them elkas out yet?
Jetting is a huge issue thats my guess, and like Jbooker said dont just give up on them. Im running a 48 piolet and a 195 main in my 35pwk single setup clip in the middel and its running perfect but it sure dident come that way. Another reason this could be happening is your piolet may be cloged. Get some good carb cleaner and try not to soak the rubber parts.
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If I choose a 450 it would more than likely be a can am 450 but I dont race in a 450 class so the KTM 525XC is your best bet. But if you bought a KTM 450xc all youde have to do is get a big bore kit and turn it into a 525. The Outlaw doesnt compare to wwhat KTM has plus the aftermarket is going to be making way more parts for the KTMs.
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I would look into bigger mains. It definatly sounds like its running lean how its heating up then reving. Also just to be safe spray some carb cleaner around your intakes all around them and see if it revs. Also to get it to idel could be a jetting problem but start with one turn out on each side then quarter turns from there.
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rite its eayser in the clutch around tight corners sometimes going up hills I use the clutch though to rev and pop it out. It all depends on where Im at. My forerms are strong enough to where I could pull the clutch every time but I personaly dont need it and alot of AWRCS riders agree with me and they do it themselves. Thats when I started doing it is when Cody Buchaanan and a few other guys told me it wont hurt anything in the upper rpms low rpms you could foul plugs espically on 2 smokes.
Yes AWRCS is Ohio and PA. The last race was in Clintonville and thats a stones throw from where Im at Im just not ready so Im gonna do the Boyers race for sure.
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Well, shiver me timbers
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does the shorter swinger have any ILL handling effects on the front end , pushing , twitchey-ness , I would like to make the front end lighter, and have better hook on the rear to hop over the creeks and logs easier .
Na, if anything it will make it easier to steer. If your going over a bunch of shit Im willing to bet your front end already goes back and forth bars comming out of your hands so an aftermarket steering stem and a GPR stabilizer will cut that rite out for the up and down movement Fasst Flexx bars.
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I dont know how im gonna report it.. it already has a huge drag port done to it... btw do they sell cut domes??
Well if it already has a drag port then it probably doesnt need touched. Only thing I can think of is having your intake raised a little but you probably dont need it.
Nossmachine.com has domes cut for any aplication you need just state what your looking for and David Noss will get them rite out to you.
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Thats good, Eric Gorr is a top Notch porting guru espically for woods/MX/XC porting. Ive rode plenty of his ported bikes. Ill still be going with my guy cause hes just as good with getting all of the lowend he can like a 4 stroke up to a cirten rpm then that Banshee hit. But yeah, alot of guys should go to him if you dont know of anyone who can port really good in your area.
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How many of you guys just shift when your dead smack in the rpms where you need to shift and dont use the clutch. It takes practice to know when without bogging down shifting and fouling plugs. Alot of times in a race my arm gets tired so I just shift.
BTW- Meat I will probably be going to an AWRCS Race at the end of the season. Do you go to any of them?
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i agree with the fmf's . im runnin fmf fattys and pc2 silencers no sparkys and i got stock front gear and a 42 on the rear and it has a lot of low end. it just bam its like my friends yfz. but im not runnin a 2 into 1 carb.. NO NO NO NO!!!! the sucketh good for topend. i like my 2 stock carbs with no t.o.r.s
A 2:1 carb setup will give you alot more lowend and midrange power than stock carbs. I know cause I made the switch. Also advancing your timing with an adjustable timing plate helps lowend a shitload itself.
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You wont loose a lot you just wont gain near as much. When you port a 2 stroke it is like putting in an aftermarket cam shaft in a 4 stroke. The porting controls when air and fuel go in and when exhaust goes out.
Yep, more flow more go, The bigger your ports are the more gas and air goes through them and boom you just got all of that power from simply expanding your ports. Is it so easy you can do it yourself yes and no. I wouldent recomend it without a port map and a steady hand. The guys that port all of the time are used to it and they can grind them rite out. I do however recomend the rite port job from the rite guy. A builder who does drag ports all day wont give you as good of an engine as a guy who does woods ports all day if thats what you want.
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se work but if your running a 4mil with longrods which is a good idea you should atleast have it ported to match the longer stroke get new weisco 795 series pistons and get your domes cut for a stroker engine.
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My bad. I guess I haven't been around long enough.
Its cool man, if you hang around the MX or XC sections of this board youll see alot more people with cut stockers or brandname -1 -2 swingarms.
Looks like you can go either way with yours. Build it up to be a dune or drag machine or make it into a Flattrack MX or XC Banshee like I have.
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Na there are plenty of people on here with a -2 swingarm ask HollisterHitman about it. My expirence with one was Im a bigger guy (6" 310lbs) I really dont need to go shorter. Pros Ive heard is it hooks up much better corners 100xs better and makes the banshee easier to fly on You would need either a revalved resprung rear shock or a new one. Im running a rear Elka LT Elite shock on their pro dual linkage and it rides hundreds of times better than the stock setup.
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Im currently running TR6s but I bought a set of Paul Turner Midrange pipes I still have to put on. Toomey pipes are great but not the best for woods PT Mids have a low rpm growl and really good midrange as opposed to toomey t5 Or TR6 that is mostly a topend pipe. I have heard Pro Circuts have the best lowend but that was one person telling me that. Im going with the PT Mids and Im sure Ill like them better than what I have for woods riding.
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yeah you better check that man. Take the tires off and look for damage to the hubs a arms then do the back axle. Also pump your tires to around 20-30 psi and see if you have a leak. I can understand the handelbars shaking loose out of your hands and in that case I would recomend a new antivibe stem and a GPR steering stabilizer but the whole bike shaking is not good. Youll hurt yourself and the bike if you dont inspect.
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Ide say do a compression test before you do anything. Anything in the 150-155 area are good on 93 octane 160 and above is where you should mix half vp110 and half 93 or run straight AV Fuel.