Washburn
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Posts posted by Washburn
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I cant find any pics but like stated above they are a waste unless you plan on getting them PCed or paint them with a high temp paint. They look like shit and they rust up quick. I never painted or PCed anything yet on any of my quads so you might want to use the search first or ask for tips on how to do that. Or you could spring for the chrome. Toomey does a good job with chromeing their pipes. I have the chrome TR6s and if you take care of them they will shine like new for many many years.
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Ide do it in a second if all I did was ride sand. I love the cut look. Espically on the Banshee. but I ride trails with alot of mud. I actualy spray PAM under my plastics so mud comes off eayser. What does that tell you about trail riding with cut fenders just to look good. Ha Chill.
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Dont know if they are any good, but right here is a killer set I was bidding on them but fell free to bid if you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-Banshe...1QQcmdZViewItem
Damn thats a deal and a half. You said bid on it though.
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:yelrotflmao: I so agree with you on this one. It might work though if you make her drink a gallon of nyquill before you put it on though
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Nice Cheetahs rule. Keep us posted. Remember the more detail(espically pics) the better :thumbsup:
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Well shiver me timbers!
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5 or 6
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Jw if there is alot of power im missing out on, i have a noss cool head with 20cc domes sittin in the gradge, right now im runnin stock head on the ported cylinders am i missin out on any sig power gain?
No doubt about it. Put that head and domes on and you will be suprised at how much more lowend and soft spots in your powerband will wake up. Just watch your compression after the install but you should be good.
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You can make the Banshee any kind of quad you want it to be. They were built to be an all around kickass quad with unlimited potential. Stock for stock in a straight line the Quadzilla is faster. Im pretty sure the Quadzilla still holds the highest HP record for a stock quad.
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And yes you can install all of the head and dome mods VF3s and timing plate yourself. PM me I have written up instructions on the Noss Head and VF3 Install.
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thikn i could do all those mods my self with little experence or take it some where?
i mean i know i gota take the crank out and get that trued and welded but that no big thing but the rest i wanted to do my self and i dunno if any 1 knows about domes better then me but if i went to 20s would i have to run cam 2 is it worth going to 20s from 22 stock or 21 is good enough?
It all depends on your alltitude. 20cc domes and +4 timing at 1500 feet and lower in my case calls for race gas. not even a 50/50 blend though. If you are going to split the cases and weld the crank you might want to look into some port work. Mabey a new top end too. Running extra high compression without port work is not that good of an idea IMO cause when you port it your compression goes down cause of the bigger ports and thats when your high compression and race fuel really come in handy. But if you dont want to port it and you want like 155-175 compression reading then yes. You need race fuel. I know people who are in the high 150s and they run straight 93 "without a problem" but I say better safe than sorry. PM DLNOSS he will be more than happy to help you out.
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Ahhhh, this is why I work on all my shit myself. Once you start getting in with different builders and shops, it's justa mess, everybody seems like their out to make a buck, often at your expense. Too many cooks spoil the soup you know. All of the stuff your talking about you probably could have done yourself with the help of a Clymer. FYI your save a buttload of money turning wrenches yourself.
I agree 100%. I do all of my own work even though Buchanan Racing (Best mechanic Ive ever seen) knows me Im building his website and we are childhood riding partners he still told me $$ dollars to install my Noss Head and put in my V3s. but I figured why spend the $$ bucks when I can just do it myself. Its when you mess something up you take it somewhere. But 2 strokes are very easy to work on espically with a Clymers manual and the HQ. But some people just cant or dont want to work on their own stuff and thats why I said get as much info as possible on your build as you can and if they mess it up take it back and demand they do it for next to nothing.
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I dont ride moto. cant cause my right leg cant take it. But I would still run with a skidplate. Never know when your are going to mess up a double and get stuck on the lip. And your CarZ$$$$$y If you dont run them on the trails.
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I give it the old "push down on the tire with your hand" technique on the front tires. Too hard and you feel every rock, rut, and stump on the trail. The rear tires, I eye up the tread so it's level for that even grip :thumbsup:
yeah, I do the same but I still keep a pressure reading. A good gauge is like 5 bucks top of the line is like 12 bucks. Its usually 5-6 psi front and rear. I will have to see what I like when I get my Razr 2s.
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Well you were probably jetted way to lean or your waterpump stoped working. Either way you got screwed over on price and service. I would have taken my bike back to D&M and demanded they fix it with the part you supply. Everyone who is in buisness should take care of their mistakes because people in business KNOW good words about their shop/skills go 5 miles in radius and bad words go 50 miles in radius. Plus they should be in it to make their coustmers happy. Though I have heard a mechanic tell me anything with splitting the cases is 1500 dollars I laughed at him and I said you must have people comming to you left and right then. Another thing I would do if I took my bike to someone I dident know is supply a camera and tell them to snap a few pics of the cases being split and some of the new parts they are putting in. That is by no means unreasonable.
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San Fran
Dallas
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winners according to the point spread
New York Jets
Cleveland Browns
New England Patriots
Buffalo Bills
Pittsburgh Steelers
Washington Redskins
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Tampa Bay Buccaneers
Green Bay Packers
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Even a goat can ride a Honda :yelrotflmao:
HAHAHAHAHA HAHA HAHAHAAH. I PISSED!!
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Looks clean to me. Is that what your turning into a drag bike? If so that should make for one hell of a project! Its a Banshee board but keep us posted. Drag anything is cool :thumbsup:
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I agree 100%. It would cut down on all sorts of unwanted and unneeded bullshit.
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sweet. nevermind
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hmmm when I attach this to the attachment space below and hit upload it just says uploading with that image spinning. I waited 5 minutes and it dident change.
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yeah thats some shit rite there. Speaking of I gotta drop the kids off at the pool rite now.
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IMO The type of riding you do Ide Trade them Chrome CPIs for some Chrome newer T5s. I say this because I have seen you look into that option. For trails mud and some drag the T5s and V3s will hit very quick along with your milled head making the powerband strong and long. If you plan on staying with those pipes Ide go and get it ported. You can get an agressive woods port or you could go a step or two further and give them CPIs their full potential. Talk to a engine builder and see what he has to say about the type of port you would be best with. Just mention the CPIs and what type of riding you do.
What to get next
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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Ill chime in one more time here. I have the TR6s and Im changing to the Paul Turner Mids when I get my agressive woods port. For tight trails the CPIs are not the way to go for drag they are. Best of both worlds would be the T5s. Ive heard Pro Circuts are a very good pipe too but Ive never ran one.