icprey

Figure I owe an update on this thread. For approx. the last month I have been fighting with a (now) intermitent electrical problem. After the rebuild I could not get spark and tried plugging in alternate components I have as spares(many) but still no dice. The only real unknown was the motor and stator because I had never run those components but yes to all the others. I have absolutely zero electrical knowledge so I waited for my bro to visit. While doing lots of tests one evening and everything appearing to be in order we suddenly got spark. Both of us couldn't really figure out how, but since I had just reinstalled the coil wire I assumed I was probably not clipped on well and just sitting with the little clear rubber cover on the coil not the actual metal in there. At that moment he had been fiddling elsewhere. Things were good, the next night(sunday) i put the machine together well enough to try and fire and sure enough 5 kicks later she fired. Next morning same thing, had her running and revving a good ten minutes(no idle). Came back a week later and fired again, next night fired again but died out immediately because choke went in, and then I tried kicking and kicking, assumed plugs had fouled and changed them only to realize no more spark. Obviusly problem was not the plug previously mentioned and I can only assume a short or more likely an intermitent stator issue. You'll read why. I have even taken another harness and plugged in extra essentials(cdi,coil,regulator...) piggyback to the installed system to test and still no spark. I think I am going to have to look at the stator on the engine(broken keyway that allows it to catch at times??). God news: On one of my spare parts engines I got in this package I found a brand new adjustable timing plate and pick-up coils from ricky stator I believe. That should help my woods package. The bike has been completely rebuilt from bare frame, has no cracks, new paint, everything greased and nice and tight, new parts or the best used ones I had a choice of and I can't get her to run. All I had left was the plastics when it last ran, now I had to take even more parts off to diagnose. I sit and bounce on her but she won't run for me. It is now freezing in the shed and my brain is too tired to try and figure this out. I've been working 4-5 nights a week(often untill 1-2 am) for 2 months at least on this and I have to get my sled ready. I'm going to wait until my brother comes back for x-mas and we'll work at my house in a well lit heated garage and get this thing figured out. I will let you guys know when we figure this thing out and also post some pics.

I had and the same problem and like you tried three diffrent masters and even bled each junction off working downwards but the damn thing wouldn't push the fluid down. I have a tool that allows you to suck fluid through the bleeder at the caliper and that did the trick finally. Still not thrilled with final lever feel and play, but it's bled the best I can.

Hey guys here in Canada just above Newport, VT. Been working on the machine about 4 nights a week from 10pm-2am but have had alot of setbacks. 2 steps forward one step back all the time. Picking and choosing the best parts from two machines in boxes. Working at my country place so a very average working environment and not my full selection of tools. At the very least I'm learning this thing in/out pretty good. Put a stock head milled ??? on an unknown long block(stock bore at least) and will try to start it tonight or tomorrow to see if it runs and then I will replace everything permanent(I'll also check compression to see gas issues, which of course is at home). Once I run it for a bit I'll sart putting together the intake, port,pipe and head package I really want. One spare engine I have is supposedly ported but I found major piston damage when I stole its head. I'll post a pic later and maybe someone can help me determine what kind of porting has been done. Really trying to figure out where to route all the wires and hoses because there is quite a few of them and I never saw an unmolested machine to see factory routing. Good luck in everyones projects.

I guess as much as I am asking about routing I am also trying to make sure the attachment points are correct. I have two coolant reservoirs that came in my boxes and one of them has the return(overflow) line plumbed into a T fitting with a small bit of hose. I do not believe this to be correct. I believe that there is one hose from the top of the rad that goes back to the reservoir(the bottom) abd the top one out of the reservoir is long enough to return to the front of the machine where it spews to the ground if overheated. Correct??? The small breather hoses one out the back of the base the other out the water pump area hit a tee fitting where that hose goes up/back/forward or wherever I want?? Does this breather hose need to be kept at a certain height or anything?? Thanks again. I guess I'm mostly on the right track.

Hi guys, Putting a machine back together from boxes basically, and even though I have the clymer and have figured most things out here I really would like to place these small hoses back in their proper place. Can anyone help me out with the placement of these lines as they should be. I keep ending up with an extra bit I'm not sure about. Describe it to me, take a pick, or if anyone has it send me the oem manual routing diagram(gixer1127@hotmail.com). I assumed this would be in the clymer. I've drawn a quick diagram(don't laugh!!) of how I think they are supposed to pass. Any help here is much appreciated. Thanks

Pulled the head to change it because I saw some cracks in the dome. The head pulled off beautifully with absolutely no tears or sticking of the gasket. Can I re-use this gasket or do I have to buy a new one. Thanks

Keep this thread flowing with info. Real life experiences with different components and where you saw good gains are appreciated by everyone. Don't forget to mention the bad with the good so others can avoid disapointment. Update on my status: Had to go with new frame, front end is all put back together(brakes took forever to set-up) but I'm awaiting some parts on b/o.

Trying to put my quad back together after purchase from another who messed everything up. I've arrived at the chain roller and with all the parts he gave me and what I have purchased I can't figure it out 100%. I actually set it up great so that I don't have any play on the roller but it seems a little too tight for me. I have ythe Clymer and it is very difficult to see exactly how they set it up. They do not appear to have a thin collar that has a raised lip that came in my parts box and is visible on the on-line parts microfiche #42 2001 model. Even on the microfiche if I put it on that way the roller has too much slack and kind of sits there crooked. My roller may have too much wear on the inside and I have ordered a new one this morning but when I get it I want to be able to put it on. This rebuild is taking way longer than I want. Any pictures or clear and accurate descriptions are very welcomed. This is what I have as options so far. Clymer: Swing-arm end with nothing on it. Then put roller with taper side towards inside, then add side cap. Doing this had the roller way loose, just floating on there. Parts microfiche: Swing-arm end with thin collar lip towads inside. Then put roller (no mention of taper but I'll assume inwards). Then put cap. Again very loose like this, almost no difference and if you ask me the lip on the collar looks like it will just cut into the roller. My way: Swing-arm end with thin collar but lip on the outside so that lip is positioned in the middle. Then chain roller with taper to the inside and then put side caps on. In doing this configuration The roller was on there solid with very slight resistence but able to turn. However once inserted into the frame the resistence tightened and I'm not sure the chain would put enough pressure to spin it, maybe just wear it in one place. Please let me know if you are sure how this should be set-up. Thanks

I fully agree with the porting statement and will in time look into a "woods" porting. However finances and time dictate that it will have to wait. Off topic I will not be using the frame I spent a week prepping. I did reweld the mount last night but am not at all satisfied with the finished result, so I have another frame I am starting over with. Let's see if I can get this done before the snow hits! I'm scouring E-bay and here for a reasonable head and think I like the NOSS because of the fact you don't need to change studs, but there is not much around cheaper than new with the right domes, so I may have the stock head milled instead.

Hey guys ask away. Any information added to this post is valuable for evereyone involved. It is not like I didn't read others post before writing this one up. It just seemed like ther were not too many posts but tons of guys in those posts wanting answers. I think we all know that these are not and never were the ULTIMATE woods machine but for many reasons many of us try and do our best with them. Number one for me is the amount of used parts around. I mean there is absolutely TONS of stuff around for these machines(unlike other great two-stroke wood quads quadzilla,tecate-4 and available but much too pricey 250R's). In 20 minutes I can find any part I need locally and to me that is reassuring. It is two-stroke which gives it a unique flavor and hell I just love the look. My trails are eastern rocky,grasstrack or muddy. Not the best machine, but I'm not looking to win a GNCC championship, just go out and have some fun and try and make the machine work better in those situations. Come winter the trail system here is huge. I can leave from my door and pretty much go out for a full day and never really hit the same trail. Another reason I want pump gas use. These are through the woods and in the middle of farmers fields so 6th wide open if I want, but I tend to prefer corner to corner point and shoot trails (keeps you warmer by moving around more) even in winter so I've decided to focus the machine that way. Always my preference even with sleds, and if i want top speed I pull it out. Whatever floats your boat, right. So I've decided to stay with stk carbs, better compresion, stk porting for now and maybe go with the timing advance. I'll even probably run the stock(gulp) pipes for now, although I do have t-5's hanging around. I'll do some testing with these later on. As previously mentioned I was into the rebuilding process after a complete frame repaint but fell immediately into a problem. The frame is a 1988 converted to upper a-arms. However the guy who welded it did it too tight to fit the end covers of the arms so after all that painting I'm going to reweld it slightly wider to fit the proper parts and hope everything comes out well. I took measurements off another frame last night.

Little update here: Finished painting frame and parts last night, so Thurs I start the rebuilding process. Have a stock head available but looking into my options here. I have at least a week until I hit putting the engine back in.

Thanks for the info. I welded one slightly inset and the other pretty straight. I'm talking very slight here, so it may not even show up, but I did this because I REALLY want a set of those Ricky Stator lights, so I want the mounts to work for them. I'll see how it turned out when the machinr is put back together.

I had to remove the headlight mounts last night because someone had rewelded them backwards on my new/used machine. I'm wondering if I should put them back on completely straight or can anything be gained by putting some sort of cross pattern in there. I think I remember reading about desert racers who shine one staight forward and down a bit for up close and then the other higher up for distance. Do the stock headlights allow for any up/down left/right adjustment or are pretty much one position only? Not a big deal but I've got to put them back so I have the option if it's worth it. Thanks

BansheePQ: Merci pour ton aide et tes opinions! Liftd: I agree I think it is more a desire to feel the results of the 2/1 system more than the actual benefits per dollar. We should all pitch in buy one together and everybody gets to try it to see if we really like it. Anyway I'm still wondering what stock cc is for the head. If I go the 21cc route how much am I going down over stock. And were is the limit for 91 octane gas. I have barnetts in the clutch and was going to pull them out because it was just much too hard on my hand on my test run(ran it during purchase up and down a field and took it apart immediately once home to go thru everything...........it was put together by a way bigger moron than myself, it's not even funny to see some of the butchering that went on during this other guys "rebuild"), so I think the easy clutch is a good idea. I just have to watch out because money is far easier to spend than earn and I've already ordered/ordering quite a bit. The little things add up fast.

Thanks for the replies guys. 13-42 gearing combo is ordered. I missed out on ebay PT mids the other day and if I am stuck buying new I will definitely go with the gnarlies. It's a new machine to me and I put a flashlight into the port last night and saw something funny in the head. Assumed it was broken ring damage but it looks like the head was porous or something little cavities everywhere. So used head is pretty easy to find at about $40-50 around here, but I'm wondering if this isn't the time to upgrade. I am surprised to hear hold off on head mod. If I go stock head how much should I have removed to increase compression. I've looked into the 2-1 intakes system but they are expensive and all the used ones still sell quite expensive. Keep suggestions coming. What cc is the stock dome head. I think I might have read this morning that it is 21cc anyways so I have to go to 20cc I imagine.