okbeast

That would explain the rumor about them rebuilding after every run. You'd have to....wish i had me some drug cartel money :biggrin:

I'm not sure who everyone is, but i wouldn't listen to them anymore. Yes 340 or up may be too rich but if you're ported I would say around a 320 or 330 would work good depending on porting/pipes/elevation and all.

Well if what he already did was "taking care of it" then you're screwed. Tell him to screw off and you want your money back.

If the other guy wants the coil I'll take the harness, has it been cut up at all? How much shipped to 73533?

Well I traded some T-5's and $150 for them about 2 months ago and they are in no worse condition than then. So I'd like to get at least $500 for 'em. Not sure if that makes you wanna run away or not. And I'll only sell them if I can find some raw inframe Shearers first but I've been looking.

Ya I know Millenium was kinda tops for it. I wonder how many "new" cubs come from CP out not really at 68mm. Or I wonder if Calvin hones them back to what they're suppose to be when he gets them back from him. What kinda hone would u recommend for the nikasil since it's a pretty hard coating?

Might have a set of chrome Shearer inframes for sale. In very mint condition. I'm wanting to go to some i can PC black. I'm located in OK too so shipping wouldn't be bad, or I could deliver 'em when I'm in Stillwater sometime.

This may be a bit off topic but could help some. For those that have had cylinder nikasiled or renikasiled, would the company you had do this take your pistons in hand and spray the coating then hone it out to the piston size you have? Or are they just doing them to 68mm, or w/e bore you have.

I always used the paper gaskets that cometic sold in their kit. I don't know how thick they were but I'm pretty sure it was more than .015". Are you using a stock head or a coolhead?

WCR is gone?

Why would you ever let ohton touch your bike? lol that guy is fuggin nuts

Have your cylinders been decked before that you know of? No I would say .020 is not enough squish lol. For a stocker bike I'd shoot for somethin around .035-.045. This number varies from person to person but that's a safe range. Make sure to use some silicone if you're gonna double up on base gaskets too, i recommend the spray on copper gasket stuff, it's not messy to spray and just slide 'em on and works great.

Ah, that damn banshee creeping. What I've done to fix that before, and again this would vary from bike to bike, but adjust the arrow on teh arm to the stator side of the case arrow. I'm really not sure if this is even right, but it seems to give more "pull" or w/e and disengages (or engages, however you prefer to say it) the clutch and spreads the plates apart more.

Is it completely jumping into gear when you click into gear with the clutch pulled or just jumping some/alot? What does it look like when you pull the clutch handle with the clutch cover off? I'm sure you've seen enough move to know how much movement or about how much would be good. Also the clutch arm can get quite worn where it contacts the ball/rod setup, that could lead to not pushing the plates out as far.

Lol at wanting an apology from an online argument. Yes longer bolts or an extra nut will add more weight.

And at 70 degrees you musta been leaning back so far to keep from falling off it helped cut down your drag from air.

coil bind? sorry i dont cut my springs you'll have to explain. and google offered nothing either.

The DD lock-ups are fine, yes the bolt/nut is the weight, and can be adjusted with other bolts/more nuts, etc. Replace the seals anyways since you're in there, no point in buying brand new ones to not put them in. Never know if your old ones might be bad.

I figured of all the genius responses someone would have told you to make sure to stretch the spring back out to original length after cutting. But that's just coming from someone who drops the clutch and goes.

Just got some arms from him today. Building some that are an older design but fit what I need more and customized 'em a bit. Good price too on some brand new stuff.

Lol over rev? Just because you're going down a hill doesn't mean your bike will rev more. Unless your motor doesn't make enough power to pull the gearing you run, then yes.

Just b/c the road is slopped doesn't mean your speed increases to infinity and beyond. Gearing stops how fast it will all turn genius.

Why do people flip the camera off for pictures to post here? Lol look like a bunch of badasses, er i mean dumbasses

There's gobs of posts about this already, just an fyi if no one responds.

Please refer to Dajo's method. I think it would be the best way for you to find out how fast you really were going. ahahha dickboy