okbeast

Is the tranny undercut?

Hell someone make an offer on this thing

How do you like the neutral down? Do you find yourself shifting into neutral alot hten back up to 1st?

$350 obo need this gone. Get the best tranny in the business for cheaper than you can get one from someone else!

$375, or trade for some 12 paddle extremes on blue label rims plus a little cash

Got a Kurtz override for sale. Dude sold it said he thought it was duneable, well it's only got 1 spring in it so I'm selling it as a regular. The shift forks looked good when I tore it down so I'm pretty sure it hasn't been rode hard. Let me know if you want pictures of anything else. It will come with the 2 gear shafts, the drum, and the shift star, since it looks to be modded for this tranny. Asking $400 shipped, OBO.

Gotcha, I'm really not too worried about bumping the shifter and it going in, was thinking more along of the lines of just motor shake kicking it out of neutral.

WCR's r&d on this originally must have been weak. If he claims it can be upshifted and downshifted at any point that needs to be tested. 4th gear pinned and shift 'er down

I just tore down a bottom end. Still need to clean/blast them b/c they were painted green. They don't have the chain wack, but you can see where they did get hit in that spot and poked a tiny hole through. I should have them all cleaned up by the middle of next week. Lmk if you're interested even though it's got that little hole and I'll send ya some pictures after I clean 'em all up. Asking $125 shipped.

When are the std neutral 1-5's prone to jump into gear? I'm wanting to get one of these, due to only having 1 bike, so it gets duned, raced at the river, and raced at the track. Whenever I'm warming it up at the track I'll have it in neutral and have the clutch pulled in while cleaning it out, then put it into first to drive to the box, shift up into 2nd and then just clean it out with the clutch in. Probably not the best idea but I've been doing it for 2 years this way on the same clutch. I want the std. neutral for the times I'm duning or at the river and don't want to have to shift all the way down then back up 1 to be in 1st. Maybe I'm thinking into it too much

Word, I stand corrected. Was thinking of somethin else i guess

Pro Circuits and T-5's are fairly similar pipes I believe. And yes the air intake being the same would have something to do with it.

Got a crank that was supposed to be Vito's 4mm 110mm rod. It has 29L on the rods and what I'm getting from google is that is the numbers on the stock crank, or at least the part number that is showing up for everything banshee, stock crank related. It's not out of the cases yet so I can't measure anything and it didn't have cylinders/pistons so I can't check that either. Anyone know if this could in fact still be a Vito's 4mm crank, just going off of 29L.

Be interesting to try these at the track this summer once I get my override and get some consistent times on the Shearers.

I'm not really doggin' on him either, I'm actually just curious what the next weak link is in these, besides 2nd gear.

Make sure they do a pre-heat on it, chances are it's had brake fluid spilled on it before and that stuff is hell on PC or anything really. You'll also have to be hella careful when bleeding your brakes.

He can't answer this. I posted it 3 times in one thread, had blowit and dave respond with the same question and he just avoided it. I'm not saying he doesn't know his stuff or whatever, but "there is no answer" for this.

assphalt draggers Go ahead and name the bad sponsor. I'm sure it's a he said she said thing just like most issues are. And if what you say is true "it won't hurt their business at all."

Yeah the dyno runs will sure be interesting. In all honesty a banshee can be trail-ridden, just gotta control the power some. And don't you mean a 12-pack rack on the big 4x4

bump

Trail pipe with drag carbs? Is there any dyno runs with this pipe? I'm thinking about designing a new pipe, I'm gonna have dajogejr sell it for me on here, anyone who wants info can call me, but he's gonna be making the posts

What a mess of a thread. If you want a 4mil cub I say do that But in all reality, just get it ported for the 4mil.

I bet it sounds clean too, more like a 250R I would imagine. One downside is you wouldn't be able to tell if one side was firing bad or something like that, not being able to see exhaust come out of each individual pipe.

Ya if it hasn't blown by now I figure I'm good. I thought about going to a .012 base gasket like most cubs run, but I'd honestly rather be able to run 91. It's not a full blown drag bike yet so might as well be as ride-able as possible right now. I'll holler at you when I get ready to tear down, the engineer in me is curious about this.

Been doin it for 2 years and I ride the hell out of it and it's been fine. I'm fixing to tear it down in a few weeks and we'll see what it looks like. So wtf does one need to do to get the 'best' idea of what my compression is? I'm not changing anything, just putting in an override but the motor hasn't been apart in 2 years so I figured I'd see if it could use a re-ring.