okbeast

So it won't roll if the bike is in neutral either?

Cascade has the stuffers I believe.

So you know suspension, AND how to properly setup one of the newest cylinders out for the banshee? Better change your name to LONGGOD. :nohomo:

Try NYUK, or ellison. Or that Minkia guy is selling brand new ones by the looks on ebay.

Yeah, rings are cheap, get some new ones.

Have to split the cases to get the crank out. Might be able to tell if it's welded by looking through the top case, if they welded it on the inside of the web.

Klotz Supertechniplate at 32:1. Might switch to the redline when I go to alky.

Connects right behind where the rear engine mount bolt goes through.

If they are PWK's, no. Usually the dumptubes are drilled out. And they are not replaceable on the Keihins.

Yeah all the sponsors should be able to get you all the bearings and seals you need.

What carbs?

I want to see a Sniper vs. Shearer comparison on the Serval. Just for shits

The PWK's are a bit newer technology, but if you're not drag racing I don't think it will make that much difference to you.

Both are pretty easy tuning. I ran both 34 PJ's and 35 pwk's on my 4mil cub and don't have any complaints for either.

Do explain more, if possible?

You got some pretty hands :wink:

I've used the tusk clutch in my stock motor, stock ported motor, and my 421 cub. Never had a problem from the dimpled steels? I would guess that design is to help hold some oil so the steels and fibers dont have a tendency to stick together. We usually throw the steels on the shop floor and slide them around to rough them up too.

Depends on what kind of sand you're riding in too. Deep/soft sand, or harder shallower sand. I run mine anywhere from 2-5 psi depending on where I'm at.

Very nice bikes, surprised I didn't see you out at LS though with that nice of banshees. I really like the looks of the JD arms.

Well I don't have anything to post from my mentor's mentor's mentor, so you win

But some of the dyno testing done shows that the mid-top pipe and medium sized carb works great on this motor. Good power AND torque, with a great curve. I don't understand why you would stay with smaller carbs and low-end pipes if you can get more power with similar torque back-up? I understand the motor "does what you need it to do" with that setup. Might as well just build a ported stocker and run some T-5's or pro circuits IMO, seems like a waste of money to buy a cylinder that can do way more than you want it to do, but choke it down. Much like people that build 421 cubs and put T-5's on them. But maybe that's not yall's thinking.

So was this a question thread? Or you just showing us this old-school piston chopping technique

So you made the post, then 15 mins later decided what you were gonna do? Then you're gonna have it done in 4 days? That's good turnaround there

Exactly, I'll probably do a different chassis/alky before I do more motor work

I had some pro-design domes that were hell running plugs into. Always ran rough. Compression gauge was the same way. at the guy who worships snap-on