SlowerThanYou

I consider myself a rookie at 300', but we've had some pretty good success doing it. I wish some other people would speak up with their opinions on the 300'. 1st & foremost ET wins races, plain & simple. Most of your ET comes early in the run, that's why we focus on the 60' time. Don't get me wrong we pay attention to the mph, but to us it's secondary between the two. At 1st we were under paddled running a 22x11x8 12 paddle extreme. While we ran good numbers that way. We had problems down track, spinning in 3rd & 4th gear. Plus, it was hard to shift into those gears also. My fix for them problems was a 22x11x8 14 paddle ripper. That's when we were told my many we had too much paddle. The guy didn't even want to sell me the tires, because he thought they were too much for our bike. Anyway, we ended up losing a little 60' time, but was still in the high 1.30 range. We didn't have any more problems with wheel spin or shifting. We picked up a good amount of ET in the mid track & added an easy 3 mph to our trap speeds. We also ran a 82" RO 16 paddle stg. ripper on it. The bike pulled them, but we didn't spend enough time with the set-up. All of this was run with our 443 cub in my signature photo. I considered it a small motor & it had lots of tire. We launched it at 10,000 rpm, shifted around 10,200 & went thru the 300' timers at 10,000+ rpm. We launched in 1st gear with a 2.54 ratio & ran anywhere from a 17front/39-43 rear sprockets.

This was asked in a PM & I asked if I could answer it in open forum. That's the way I prefer to answer most questions anyway. "How do you know your gearing is correct and its time to start fine tuning the clutch. 300ft sand if it matters." I'll start with the gearing & this is just my opinion. Most will know the rpm where they make peak HP if they've been on the dyno. The idea is to have the motor at the peak HP rpm somewhere around the finish line. That's in the gear you want to finish in, for 300' that would be 5th gear for most & 4th gear for some. We choose to do it a little differently with hitting the peak HP rpm well before the finish line. While we tend to lose a little mph we make up for it with a quicker ET. I'll use a 1/4 mile run as an example: our old motor made peak HP @ 9,7000 rpm. We shifted it mostly between 10,000-10,200 rpm & shifted into 6th gear before the 1/8 mile. On our best runs we would be around 10,700 rpm at the finish line. Well, over our peak HP rpm. We use this method for 300', hill shooting, 1/8 mile & 1/4 mile. The gear we finish the run is different each, except 300' & hill shooting. The clutch tuning is primarily used for the 1st 20' to 40' of the run approximately. The 60' times tells if you going the right or wrong way with clutch tuning. So, to sum it up. IMO, gearing for the most part is getting your RPM right at the set distance you are running. Clutch tuning is getting your lowest 60' time possible. NOTE: Gearing does play a factor in the 60', but we primarily use it to get our desired rpm & mph at the finish line. Clutch tuning is used to get the quickest 60' times as possible.The clutch when not right (arm weight) will affect things past the 60'. This usually shows up on the 3-4 shift & the 4-5 shift if you are leaving in 2nd gear for 300'. This will affect your mph also because of clutch slippage.

I have gotten a few questions on measuring spring height. I can't remember if I posted the piece of tubing I cut to help with the measurement. Anyway, I'm going to post it up. We cut a piece of tubing on the lathe to a set height of 1.8". The tubing dia. is 5/8 or 6.25, the inside dia. is .450. This is how it looks installed & ready to take the installed height measurement. This is taking the depth measurement from the top of the tubing/sleeve down to the inner hub standoff. You then take that measurement & subtract it from your known tubing/sleeve height to get your spring installed height. This can be done without the tubing/sleeve, but this makes it much easier to get a more accurate measurement. I know in my 1st photos showing measuring spring installed height. I showed measuring the step on the lock-up side of the spring. Most lock-ups that I know of don't come with that step. So there's nothing to measure on the lock-up. We have a Direct drive that's like that, but we are going to cut a step into the spring pads like our multi-stage.

I'm lucky to have a few PR guys in my corner. Most of the time the flag helps. Yes, the bike is from AZ., it was at Barona & it's quick.

I hope it runs a good as our 443 cub did on race gas, going from asphalt to sand the 1st time out. We'll be flying the Puerto Rico flag as usual.

I'll post up the sand set-up when I get them.

Here's the borrowed bike we are planning on bringing. We haven't decided on the motor yet, it will have our old 443 gas cub motor in it or a 535 on alky. I'm leaning towards the 535 just because I've never ridden one. This bike with the 535 has never been on 300', it runs good in the 1/8 mile. It's 1st runs will be run at MI.

You're welcome! The 18/39 is his baseline gearing to start with. I suggested what he should use, that's track tested. His motor is bigger & will probably need to be fine tuned from my suggestion. I'm sure when he gets to the track we will be able to get things dialed in a little better.

You really need to stay off the sauce, BoyBlunder. If the thread sucks stop asking questions or even continue looking at it. No, but you would rather be a hypocrite. Now, what is it? The motor is at K&T for Dyno time, just like you asked earlier this month. You are one confused little boy, "Curious to see #'s". That was 13 days ago, you flop more than a fish out of water.

The pot calling the kettle black again. Keep on sucking people's mudflower, at least you're good at it.

The motor was dropped off at K&T this morning. They are gone for a week & return back to work on July 29. Randy wanted to have the motor there when he got back, to dyno. We discussed things for awhile to decide a game plan. He's going to baseline the motor the way we last ran it. Then start with putting their pipes on the motor. Supposedly the only difference between our pipes is we have silencers. Then going to test their lectrons on it & maybe a dome change. We have 16.5:1 compression domes on the motor now, but also brought the 14.5:1 domes to test. We have some other minor things to change, but I don't feel like typing anymore dribble. While I don't have a lot of riding time with this motor. I think the problem is no RPM. It seems like the motor goes into over rev somewhere around 8,000-8,500 rpm. Where it should be somewhere around 9,500 rpm. I guess we'll see when we get some pulls on it.

You're welcome! I hope it works for you, as good as it does for us.

No Crayon needed & explains it pretty well without trying to make you or other's feel better about yourselves. i have to remember when my bike goes to Gilbert it has been & will be a "bigger" bike.

Cool! Buddy says they are racing Fri.-Sun. we plan on running all 3 days.

I guess the only reason I was making a 1900+ mile trip was to see all the "bigger" bikes from MI. LOL, what a joke! I'm bringing a "little" bike from NV. to race/meet with any HQ Member's from MI. or wherever. Next time I guess I need to classify my bike according to the proper ATV hierarchy standards of QP. I'm sure I will be fine, meeting up with my family from MI. That's where I was born & raised.

Nothing on Thurs. & I know nothing about how the event runs. From what I have seen so far is they start testing at noon Fri.

I've been planning a racing trip to MI. for a good long time now. The plan is to race at WMSD on Labor Day weekend. I've been communicating with Buddy Hammett the track manager. Looks like we will arrive late Thurs. evening on 8/29/13. That's my birthday, 51 years young. LOL! I'm sure I will have a little to drink that night. Anyway, I know 2 or 3 HQ Circus Member's expressed interest in showing up. I don't know what we are racing, but it will be something. I hope to meet some member's that weekend & have a good time. Post up if you think you might make it. It sure sounds like some good racing & decent payouts that weekend. Bryan

LOL! I have a couple thoughts, but I'll let the Pro's figure it out (K&T).

I'm being pretty hard on the DMX. I'm sure it will out perform the our old 443 gas cub some day. It was hard to beat the old cub & we might be bringing it out of retirement. Things are up in the air for what we are going to race in MI. Labor day weekend. There's something wrong in the DMX combo & the motor is coming out this weekend. It will be going to K&T the following weekend. I'm leaving it there until it's right. They have been great through this whole testing ordeal & they assured me they will get it figured out. I guess that would be a big bore DMX? Ours is a 80mm bore but we are looking for 60s-70s depending on the jockey weight. K&T went 3.50s on motor, but that's them, LOL! We are still coming to MI. to race at WMSD Labor Day weekend. Bringing a stock chassis asphalt bike converted to a 300' set-up. It will have our old 443 gas cub motor in it or a 535 on alky.

X2

No luck with it, our old 443 gas cub was a better combo. I'll explain a little more later in the week.

The plan changed a little due to technical difficulties, LOL! We made 3 baseline runs with the stock CDI. Then 2 runs with the Dyna CDI using a programmed in stock curve, not the Dyna provided stock curve. Both ignitions were used with the plate on +7. We saw no clear difference in ET, MPH or anything else that would indicate a advantage/change between the 2 CDIs. Now, when switching back to the custom curves we notice a distinct performance advantage. We were unable to the launch limiter on this test, due to it not working. That helps with the 60', reactions & overall consistency. This was the 1st time using our back-up Dyna ignition & apparently this feature is broken on this box.

The track owner's son put a gopro on our quad last night. I hope to find the other videos we saw besides this butt crack one. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4313925504647&set=vb.1782227223&type=2&theater Two photos of our quad from Dome Valley. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151774193002160&set=a.371903377159.194896.262823152159&type=1&theater

We have never used Sunoco fuels. We have used VP 110 & Rocket Brand 111. The tune-ups are the same as C14. On our set-up or style of racing the only change from the C14 to Q16 is the main jet size. With other types of riding, you would probably have to richen the air screw, pilot jet & needle a little. As for the times, Q16 is worth an easy .10 in 300', around .15 in the 1/8 mile & 1/4 mile. A trusted source at VP says, Q16 makes more peak HP than Methanol, but Alky will make more torque. We have ran both fuels & find they are very close in performance, with Alky providing a very small performance advantage.

I inquired about sponsoring a month ago, not the other night.