SlowerThanYou

Trying to figure out this smart phone shit. LOL! I was making headway with the combo when problems set in. There is nothing wrong with the motor. The rest of the story will come tomorrow.

I wish, more to the story & not good.

4 runs broke some shit in the chassis & pipes. LOL!

Leaving in the morning.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/DOME-VALLEY-RACEWAY/262823152159

We ran the TDR reeds N/A & didn't notice a performance difference. They were set-up for the V-Force II reed cage.

You are that close for racing & you talk only about tuning red cups? Some have the pleasure of racing, tuning & red cupping.

I wasn't going to comment on the fluid, but Tricked hit the type/brand below. I don't know if you were using the Synthetic B&M Trick Shift or the standard. We started using the Synthetic this year with the DMX. The reason we didn't want to recommend is, plain & simple not enough runs to give it a fair shake. The price is not that bad for me to get with a Jegs Racer discount. We are seeing more heat in the clutch pack than what we are used to. Having some shifting issues into 4th gear. Not sure if it's the fluid or tires causing the problem.

Since seeing this post, it reminded me of a video I saw recently somewhere. There was a guy in TX. that was drag racing 1/8 mile asphalt with one arm. I'm pretty sure Jay Shafer posted the vid, but I haven't been able to find it or contact Jay. He's a member here, but his PM box must be full. I'm still trying to get ahold of Jay about it.

Pretty sure it is, LOL!

Tabatha, are you planning on participating in this event?

I get question about what fluid to use for the transmission & clutch. IMO, the best advice I can give is to use some type of full synthetic fluid. We used Royal Purple Synchromax for many years & loved it, but didn't like the price. This year we switched to a synthetic trans fluid, that I can get reasonably cheap compared to the Synchromax. I don't like recommending specific items until I'm comfortable with using them.

I don't know for sure on your 1st ? The motorcycle drag bike guys told me very little information on this many years ago. They talked about different heights/angles of the lock-up arms. I didn't get a whole lot of information, either they didn't know how it affected the tune or didn't want to share the info. Between my direct drive & mtc there appears to be a difference, but I've never measured them. One is installed in the bike right now or I would measure them. For the machined pressure plate, we try to not show what has to be done for our multi-stage set-up. It's not that's really a secret, it has more to do with trying to keep this thread to the key basics. The pressure plate along with other things has to be machined to adapt the multi-stage to the Banshee clutch system. While some of the machining helps with standard lock-ups, IMO it's a nicety & not a requirement. I think the pic also showed steel buttons & part of the plate being coated also.

Lets see if Tabatha shows up (John Tabata). Not far for him & see how he handles the red cup tuning.

It's a little more involved when setting up valve springs. It involves seat pressure/open pressure measurements & checking for coil bind to name a few items.

Arm weight: This is pretty simple, but I do get questions on this. You weigh all the components that get attached to the lock-up arms. The scale shown is a cheap/small scale that fits into the clutch box. Clutch Stack Height: n2otoofast4u brought up stack height in conversation recently. In simple terms, it's the total height of your 7 frictions & 6 plates stacked together. We choose to measure our frictions/plates individually. Below is a very basic example of how we do it for both the friction/plates. We take the measurements 3 or 4 different spots.

Spring Pressure @ The Installed Height: After measuring your spring installed height, you use that measurement to get your spring pressure. While the pic will show doing one at a time. You can measure them all at the same time with other set-ups. Regardless, you need the total weight of all springs being used as measured for your base pressure baseline.

Was the plates checked for warpage before installing them. Just from this thread & your past PMs. I see nothing glaringly wrong with your clutch set-up. The only thing that you haven't provided is the air gap. Your plate pictures doesn't show me enough heat to cause the plates to warp IMO. We get very little warpage in our plates & we run a lot more slip than what you are doing. Below, the plate on the left is how we ran our clutches. This is a good usable seasoned plate. We inspect them for warpage, cracks, thickness & prep them for re-service. You can see the little prep we did to the plate with a roloc scotch brite disc. The plate on the right is how our plates tend to look now when everything is correct. We are running more slippage than we did with the left plate, but it doesn't show. We have spent a lot of time modifying the whole set-up with some in-between round procedures. This helps manage the heat build-up better & results in longer friction life.

Sometimes it's not about throwing money at something or someone thinking they are smart. Qaudgod hit the darting back & forth. He could have had a perfect alignment, but without the right amount of caster it will be darty. Pretty sure he was only running 1/8 mile, that problem gets amplified with more mph. I was trying to find the information on it, but it's not a priority. It's was a 2 cyl. 2 stroke on alky/nitrous in the 600cc-700cc range. Dirt wheels did an article on it when it was running 9.20s before it broke into the 8.70s.

Here's a little history lesson, there has already been a quad well into the 8s in the 1/4 mile.

We were looking at that event a little. It looks like they run all types of vehicles. Our experience with that, it makes for some pretty scary rides.

Looks like we aren't making Dome, but we plan on running BAKO.

There have been 3 member's chime in that actually have 1/4 mile experience. They have all given very good advice. I care more about the safety of a new rider attempting 1/4 mile runs. I don't worry about hurting feelings in the process. People can continue to blow smoke up Hazzard's ass or they can provide set-up information known to work safely on an ATV going 100+ mph.

Spring Installed height: This is easiest with everything out of the motor, but can be done while it’s installed. With the appropriate number of fibers & steels installed in the clutch boss. Install the pressure plate, make sure the clutch boss splines & pressure plate grooves engage properly. The shaded area of the clutch boss/inner hub standoff, for lack of better word. Is the base for the first point of measurement. The shaded area of the pressure plate spring seat. Is the second point of reference for measurement. The shaded area of the total assembly for your installed height measurement. This is what it looks like when using the depth gauge of your dial calipers. If I remember right the measurement should come out somewhere in the .900 range for the stock set-up. This will be your spring installed height you use for measuring your spring pressure. & most lock-ups without a step built/machined into them ***NOTE*** While most lock-ups will come without a spring step/locater machined into them. If for some reason you have a step/located machined in like ours. You need to take another measurement as shown in the pic below. This needs to be added to the measurement in the above paragraph to get the spring installed height.

Items needed to baseline: Pressure plate, clutch boss/inner hub, appropriate number of good fibers & steels, dial calipers, pressure gauge, small spring pressure gauge & a vice. The four following items can be found for some pretty cheap prices. The scale cost me under $15 from Harbor Freight, the vice I already had & it's too big (need something smaller), the spring pressure gauge has went up a bunch, but below is a link for one. This is a basic set-up we carry in the trailer for adjustments at the track. http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/ph/valve-train-tools/valve-spring-tools-page-2html