SlowerThanYou

The 18 paddle seemed to have been what raised the eyebrows. I don't worry too much about tires, we just make what we have or borrow work. There are many different set-ups to get the desired results. The 3 most common tires we used on our set-up in the signature was: 12 Extremes, 14 Rippers both 74"-75" RO & 16 Extremes in the 80" RO range. They all netted us killer 60's with our best being a 1.30x. Seems like RDZ set records with tires in the 18 paddle range on smaller motors than a 10 mm Cub. I can't remember the post, but I if I remember dajogejr brought the subject up many years ago. I don't really care what tire someone is using or not using. It only matters what works for you & success is measured in many different ways!

When they started going fast it seemed like K&T needed to be at the track with them. Candyman racing has been out of the game for a while & had to sell their quads.

They had a 555cc DM 4mm in a rigid chassis. I think it ran a high 5.50, it seemed like most of the time it was 5.60s-70s. Good running machine!

We always keep some time & MPH in our back pocket. That's the only way we can get some grudge racing in.

While we are set-up for 1/4 mile. I posted a old slip a long time ago running 6.30s. That was done on a stock frame weighing 325 lbs., 443 Cub on race gas & 220 lb. rider. We have been much faster than that since, especially when we set-up for 1/8 mile. While we are not the fastest, but we get the job done pretty well. There's one record that ATVDRA recorded as the fastest & that was 5.40 something. There are self proclaimed records out there & the fastest I had heard/youtube was a 5.30 something. It was a rigid chassis with an 18DM on alky.

If the OP is happy with a MPH increase only. Then that's all that really matters. I agree with you, there's always room to Improve. At the same time, I kind of addressed the situation above. I hope he does the gear change & is quicker/faster. That would be the ideal outcome.

I don't want to make a big deal over this MPH thing, re-read what I stated. In a timed distance heads-up run it doesn't matter what MPH is ran. The quickest time will win the race. That's if the reaction times are the same, period! Take the OPS run of 6.991 @ 90 MPH. If he was in a heads-up race with his opponent with equal reaction times. The opponent runs 6.992 @ 98 MPH, the OP wins with a lower MPH. The majority of ET comes early in the run & a lesser degree later in the track (MPH).

LOL! 1st good job on that time with what you have. 2nd there has been some very good advice given on the subject. Lastly, my little tidbit of information. I will 1st start by saying MPH really don't mean shit, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have a factor. I gave 2 gear ratios that should put you close to what you need to bring the mph up. The problem is, you might be getting to the point of picking up MPH, but losing ET. Without doing other things to make the gearing work. The only way to find out is try the 2.05 ratio to start. If it picks up in both ET & MPH that's a good thing. The object is to keep going in the direction that shows the improvement you want. When it stops going the direction you want, then go back to your last desired set-up or figure out why it didn't work.

Your 18/38 is a 2.11 ratio. IMO from what you are describing you need around a 2.05 ratio. A 19/39 is a 2.05 & a 19/38 is a 2.00, both ratios would lower your rpm at the finish line. Got to go, but will elaborate more this weekend. Sorry, I had a 19/40 as a 2.00 ratio. It was incorrect & I made the change to correct it in the post.

IMO, I would keep your tires. You can easily go to a 19 front & change your rear sprocket to a 39 or 40. I will explain more this weekend.

Air gap is a pretty simple measurement usually taken with a feeler gauge inserted between the pressure plate & the lock-up arms. The main thing you have to insure with a traditional style lock-up & stock pressure plate. The angle of the lock-up arm that touches the pressure plate has to somewhat match the pressure plate angle. As you may know the lock-up arm is flat, but the pressure plate has a curve cast into it. Like I said earlier, we don't worry too much about the air gap. The main thing is to ensure it has the minimum needed to totally disengage the clutch when the clutch lever is pulled in. The easiest way to check this, is to simply pull in the lever & make sure it makes contact with the handle bar grip. We know our minimum air gap needed to disengage the clutch, .090. This setting is used when running a pro light tree when drag racing. When we race on a sportsman full tree & we cannot slow the reactions down enough. We will open the air gap to around .130. This is the only reasons we change the air gap. Now other's will disagree, but other than having the minimum air gap needed to disengage the clutch. Spend your time on the key basics of clutch tuning. Baseline, Base Pressure & Arm Weight!

Not that my opinion really matters. My junk has went once & might go again this year. If some things, rules & safety don't change. We will stop supporting PSDA. Just an example: I looked in their rules to find a operating kill lanyard, I couldn't find it. There are safety issues they are ignoring that could affect the racer in the other lane & even spectators.

WE WANT YOUR INPUT prosanddrags QUADRACER Registered: 08/07/11 Posts: 84 Everyone this is for the racers, builders, track owners, etc that would like to put their input in regarding our new assocition. We have a board established now that will come together annually to discuss safety, rules, and classes. Please keep the comments positive as this is for the good. No bashing of other sites or what has been done in the past. We are moving forward for the good and look to create an exciting race atmosphere! It's pretty funny PSDA posted this in their Suggestions Section. They ask for input, but don't like what's being brought up. The weight minimum is one of the topics along with safety. Nitrobaby finally made it clear there would be no weight minimums. He was on the fence about it a year ago. They seem to be sticking their heads in the sand & ignoring the safety suggestions. It sure would be smart of them just to delete their "WE WANT YOUR INPUT" thread.

Jason Menz's is a good example of a lightweight quad. While there may be some lighter, this one is supposed to be 220 lbs. Add the 100 lb. jockey to that & you should get the point

Depending on what you have for a motor. I would start with the +10 you have. We originally started with a +8 on asphalt with our 7mm race gas cub. It worked pretty well, but was pretty violent & a hand full at times. We went to a +14 & went faster. The quad was much easier to ride. Now, if I was street racing I would look at shortening the arm up a little more.

Could someone post up a pic of measuring air gap. Our stuff is in Phoenix for a makeover.

Here's the pic for the 2nd no worky link.

Sorry! The 1st one was comments on the match race with Eric Chino (PR) vs. Brett Sanderson (USA). PR taking the win. The second one was the high dollar blinged stock looking Banshee (PR) putting it to a drag Banshee USA & flipping him off in the process of the run.

Thanks! I think they are better sorted out than the DMXs IMO.

This is another classic PR vs. USA example. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201056028668398&set=a.1747965104449.2088432.1398474709&type=1&theater

We are not too worried about it. This motor was built for 1/4 mile asphalt, not 300'. It's not a cookie cutter motor like a cub or sorted out like the DM's. There's not many DMXs putting down killer times & if they are it's being done by the Builder's. These last few changes we are making is to finalize the set-up for 300'.

I was done riding, but neither of my son's could ride this past race. So, I decided to climb on for one more race. I'm officially retired now, no joking! 1st run we broke a rod end on the wheelie bar was not a pretty sight. 2nd it pogo'd pretty bad & couldn't get 4th gear. 3rd changed rear tires & lowered wheelie bar. It booged & couldn't get 4th gear. 4th I made it to about 150' & the bike about 200' LOL! Sat. I took the bike to Phoenix for repairs & changes. The biggest thing we all wanted changed, including K&T is the 2.54 primary gears. The basket speed/clutch engagement was too fast for the standard lock-up. I was testing that for the 1st time & a few other things in the clutch. Anyway, we are putting in 2.68s. Next it's going back on the dyno, probably at D&M racing. It will be base lined with current tune & then tested with some 44 Lectrons.

I just got home, I'm pretty sore & need a nap. We had problems on all 4 runs Thurs. The 4th run ended with my left hand coming of the bar. I walked away from this one & no trip to the Hospital. The bike is in my son's hands now. They are trying to get the bike back out for a Jan. race at Dome Valley.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151694916577461&set=a.329191547460.158646.705392460&type=1