SlowerThanYou

While most didn't pay much attention or tried to make fun of the 1/4 mile secret weapon. It doesn't take much for modifications to go fast or win races. IMO, too many people pay attention to the wrong things when racing. I couldn't be more proud of my son for winning today. He's one of the best racer's out there on a drag quad or a drag car. He used his .003 light in the semis & .001 light on a .400 pro light. Plus, using his racing savvy to walk thru the competition.

We have found a 6 speed is a must for the quickest ETs for 1/4 mile. We started with a 5 speed for 1/4 & was pretty fast. It just took a lot more work. While we have a 6 speed, our quickest 1/8 mile times come only using 5th gear. X2 on the full 1-6 override, but it's the fastest! X2 on the 1-4 manual 5/6 with shift kill. It works very well & is reliable. IMO, figure out your finish line RPM 1st. Most people will gear to hit their peak hp rpm at the finish line. Then work on the other areas suggested to get it to ET.

We used to use Gearing Commander, but I haven't been able to get it to work lately. IMO, the best RPM calculators are the motorcycle type. We type in the actual information & adjust the tire diameter to match our MPH. On our tires it's usually around 1" or 1 1/2" tire growth.

Thanks, I forgot about that route!

That's a good tidbit of information. IMO, that's where the lock-up is probably fully engaging the clutch. You have to find a way to slow the clutch or lock-up engagement down. You have 2 or 3 answers already & there's a few more ways to skin this cat. Sorry, but I don't have the time or the patience for the keyboard explanation. LOL! Talking about the few other ways to skin the cat.

Had to refresh my memory on what was going on. I recommended that 2.05 ratio. What I didn't get into was other changes you have to explore to make something work. Plain & simple we gear for the desired RPM we want to attain at the end of our run. For 1/4 mile our best ET came with a gearing able to achieve 10,800 RPM. We don't spin it as high for the 1/8 mile, but it's well over 10,000 RPM. Now, to be able to use the gearing we want. We depend a lot on our clutch set-up, but there are other areas that need to be addressed also. While I'm not saying the 2.05 is right for your combo, but I would ask some questions & try some stuff before giving up on it. 1st thing & IMO the most important! What was the rpm crossing the finish line & was it in the gear you wanted, 5th or 6th.

It hasn't been talked about in this thread, that I know of. I will give a quick opinion later in this post. The 2.68 does spin the clutch faster. We have ran both the 2.68 & 2.86 primaries with out a problem, but we ran a multi-stage clutch. With that set-up we was able to slow the lock-up engagement down to compensate. We have also ran a 2.54 primary in the DMX & was having troubles with that. Going back to the 2.68s or 2.86 depending on the distance we are running. As for running quick/fast on a AR. Our tire of choice is the 20x8 & even we get the DMX back on asphalt.

LOL!

IMO, I don't think it matters. Next it will be I've raced more PSDA/PS races than you. It's more about attracting newcomer's to the sport. We have, but don't care. if someone is thinking or wanting to race them venues. They should be able to express their concerns.

Speaking from personal experience of accidents at the dunes, asphalt, & 300'. Serious damage happens to your body at speeds between 50-80 mph. Dunes was basic safety: helmet, gloves, jeans, long sleeve shirt & kill lanyard. Asphalt testing at airport: helmet, Kevlar gloves, jeans, leather jacket, leather boots & kill lanyard. 300': helmet, Kevlar gloves, long sleeve, jeans, lanyard. All areas contributed to serious bodily harm!

LOL! Thanks Juan, my basic outline in my last post is the only hope I have for organized 300'. I have many more ideas to go along with that post. As for the phone conversations, I've helped a good many. I put my differences aside with Tyler & put the offer out there. I have no real desire to talk with a mini-me, LOL!

Pot calling the kettle black. You set here & argue with me, but that's different because it's OK for you to do it. I'm not against you or Brett, but if the sport was all peachy it wouldn't be where it's. I'll throw this out, because this is where the sport needs to grow. Until, someone stands up & makes a stand on the problems it's going to continue. Here it's to both you & Brett to actually fix most of the problems. I would almost bet you have already discussed it. Put on a 300' race centrally located in the US, using some safety areas, other areas & listening to the racer's.Then set out reasonable guidelines for the sports future. Now, the ball is in your court. I'll be the 1st one to roll up my sleeves/get dirty, sponsor, race or any way else I could contribute. But according to you there's only one person that does & can do that. Nothing is getting fixed by keyboarding, starting new .coms or forums. Because everyone wants to be best buddy's, play both sides of the fence, not ruffle any feathers & the list goes on. I didn't convey everything I wanted to get across here, but someone may get it. I'll offer my cell # in PM if you wish to discuss it, but I'm sure little old me has nothing to offer the sport.

Your comment is what sparked it off, LOL! You have the 1st part of this quote right. The 2nd part is completely wrong, but you can't see that. You have your head shoved so far up your ass & it has found its way into Brett's behind. I'm sure he doesn't appreciated that, butt maybe he does. Now, take some time pull your head out & get some oxygen to that rock you call a brain. Without the history of the sport, there would be nothing for Brett to promote! History didn't get made without people promoting nothing & it was not done by one person. This turmoil or whatever you want to call it is not going to get fixed by one person. Now, to back up my claim to your oxygen lacking rock brain. Tony DA Tiger is a perfect example of one promoting Drag Racing. He has been consistently doing that in the past & is still doing it now! I'm sure Brett can fill you in on the details.

X2 Just to add, about 100 lbs.= .10 et reduction static & it's 10 rotational for the same drop. That applies for a vehicle around 3,000 lbs. As the vehicle gets way lower in weight, like a quad. The ratio changes, for us we found around 40 lbs. static weight reduces ET around .10. That was for 300'. I laugh because this shit gets confusing. Distance also plays a factor with the ratio.

This slip should provide some information into the mix. This was done in 2008, rider weight 230 lbs. stock chassis weighing 325 lbs. 443 Cub on race gas. It was set-up for 1/4 mile, but has been substantially faster in all incremental times since. I forgot to add the motor dyno'd at 97 hp.

I understand what you 2 are trying to do & it's not unappreciated. I hate to break the news to you, but you are wrong. Brett may very well be a leader in 300' racing publicity, but not the only one promoting ATV Drag Racing! 2nd, there are plenty of people that are currently & in the past promoting ATV Drag racing. The publicity/promotion side has went back around 10 years that I know of, with different people doing a lot of work for the sport. I'm trying to hold onto some hope for the sport, but it's fading. It has not been because of other's not trying or even myself not trying. Numerous people have done much more for the sport, than keyboard suggest/complain.

Tired of beating the dead horse. I have provided suggestions & even volunteered my time at my own expense. It all falls on death ears. Same as n2to's/other's suggestions. BHQ is working well for its member's & this is where I'm staying.

Tyler, I don't think you are going to get it. You are purely looking from the outside in. n2to, I & other's get it from an inside perspective. You brought up coping PS. There was some good things there that PSDA is missing from PS. Plus, they are also following in some of the same bad footsteps of PS. I was not a fan of Charlie at all, but the site did have some good in its day. As for your new forum, you are missing some key elements. You need to look at some of the key areas that are making BHQ work. While the other ATV sites are failing. N2to's safety area thread is only a small part of the problems.

Are you referring to all the other drag forums out there? Because as I see it, this site seems to be doing damn good! I saw a number of the drag racer's starting to show up here. I'm pretty sure I have an idea why. As for the other ATV drag site's failing. New ones attempted to take to up the slack, but are missing the boat badly. There are some lessons learned good & bad from these other failed or failing forums. Some of the problems are forum related, some of them are the racing association related & some are just people/member/racer related. I wish you the best of luck! IMO, you need to define the key elements missing for the ATV Drag Racing sport to grow. You have captured part of what's needed for the sport with ATVDragRacer.com. I'm not sure if the same has been done with adding the forum to it. Again this is my opinion! The ATV drag racing sport has been stagnant for some time. I take my hat off for everyone trying to breath some life into it. Including the failed sites, the sites treading water & your new site. There are many things that need changing & you have only hit on one of them. I'm not pointing the finger at you, because you took a step in the right direction. Many other's need to step up, but that isn't happening!

Thanks phunt for posting up some tuning information. It gives a different outlook on what's going on & how it helps with performance. The initial reason I started this thread was to provide some basic clutch tuning information. Then I was hoping to have some good interaction in the thread with different member's experiences from the thread. Now I know of 2 members using data logging for information. I use the old fashion way of data logging on the track, mathematics. When on the dunes we use a combination of the track set-up & the butt dyno.

Talking about chasing the track. I look at it a little differently. We don't like to chase the clutch if the track is good or bad. Once you get your clutch refined/tuned, like we had our Cub set-up. To give an example: we started on asphalt, went to the dunes hill shooting & finally to 300'. Now we alternate between asphalt & 300'. The only thing we changed for the hill was adding a small amount of arm weight. Since we have done that, we have not changed the weight for any of the surfaces. Sprinkles, I know we have talked about this a little bit. LOL! You dune guys are in a tuff spot, but I've been there. Our 1st transition to a different area from asphalt was the dunes. We had pulled high 1.30 60's on asphalt. We were reasonably confident we could do well at the dunes and we did. Well as we all know dune racing is very subjective. Our baseline criteria was my butt dyno, LOL! Plus, running against a name builder's well sorted out 535 alky Cheetah beating it 3 times in a row with a 443 gas Cub & our 1st time on sand. While our transitions to the different areas is totally different than yours. There's one thing in common, you have to measure (time) a certain distance for clutch tuning. I'll bring up 3 different ways, but with any of them it still takes a lot of time! #1 - Become a track bike for a minimum of 1 year. IMO, A fast track bike will make a fast dune bike & vice versa. Even though the conditions are drastically different. While we never got a time slip on the dunes. Our asphalt/dune set-up transitioned very well to 300' for the 1st time out with low mid to low 1.30 60's. #2 - Spend the money to data log your set-up. There are systems out there that can provide you the information you need at a reasonable cost. I know enough about them to be dangerous. So, if that's your route. It's up to you to figure out or talk to the right people. I know of one member here that does it, it's up to him if he will chime in. IMO, that is the direction you need to take. Plus, it will help in other areas besides the clutch. #3 - Set-up cones at a known distance & time with a video. It's not the most accurate, but it does provide good information. We stumbled on to that by accident using a truck that was parked part of the way up the hill when we were taping.

X2, I have talked with Menz a few times & agree. He takes every aspect of tuning to another level & it shows with his performance. While most of our conversations was dealing with clutch. I thank him for a couple areas that I will take to my grave before mentioning.

I just got asked the question again in a PM. Why doesn't anyone post their actual spring pressure. I know why I don't post spring pressures. Most people don't like the 1st answer, so I will not repeat it. The 2nd reason is involves the value of that information. I always try & reinforce the priority of clutch tuning basics. Baseline, Base Pressure & Arm Weight! I always want to put Base Pressure in the number one spot over the Baseline. It really should go there, but without the Baseline being 1st it would be kind of like a dog chasing its tail. Back to the value of Base Pressure. In all of our clutch tuning, not just the basics. IMO, the Base Pressure has the single most affect on the performance of the quad (good or bad). Don't get me wrong, that Arm Weight or other stuff I talk about doesn't matter. It all matters, but each area has a lesser effect on the performance of the quad. I only know of two members in the HQ that has taken some/all of this information or developed their own clutch program. phunt, comes to mind with his low 1.30 60's. Oh by the way Mr. phunt you still owe this thread some information!

If you are referring to setting the air gap. No need to shape the arms. Setting/changing air gap can be accomplished many different ways. One of the easiest ways is to change your clutch pack height. I'll say it again don't waste a lot of time on the air gap, refer back to post #243.

I agree with regards to the OP. I was mainly addressing the comments about rjatv.