BigCheeseStick

OUTSTANDING! Thanks!

Anytime I search for carb info. on the Shee all I can find anywhere is for aftermarket carbs.. What ARE the stock carbs exactly (manufacture, model number, size) MUCH THANKS TO ANYONE WHO CAN HELP!!!

I'm looking at the original factory reeds and cages which are still perfect and new condition... They all seal extremely well. Even pop a little when you gently push one open. The VForce 3 carbon fiber reeds I can actually see little pin holes through all of them in the carbon fiber weave when I hold them up to sun light... I pulled the cage on the left cylinder and it was sealing pretty good (why that cylinder ran MUCH, MUCH stronger). Do you guys REALLY think the VForce reeds are better than stock??? I know their stiffer, but seem like REALLY poor quality! Trying to decide what to put back in!

I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT! Nothing to do with the carb at all! CONVINCED of this, I dug further... Apreciate this quad has been sitting broke for MONTHS., and It's only got 1hr run time on it since it was on the showroom floor (I've got others I ride). I've actually learned to really HATE the whole da#$ machine because this problem! But I finally found somthing wrong!!!!!!!! Bad VForce 3 valves from the factory! The carbon fiber reeds are acceptable (though I'm not impressed with the "squarness or trimming" around the edges of the reeds at all), but after swapping all four reeds into this ones position I'm still getting almost a 1/64" gap between the cage and one of the reed "petals". It just WONT seat! I remember noticing the problem on initial assembly, but didnt know anything about 2 strokes at the time, and thought. "Everybody swears these are the best... They were expensive as hell... They're surely OK... Just need to run a little to seat in or something." [i] NOT[/i] I called the Moto Tasinari tech. support number (NOT easy to get), and they're sending me a replacement cage with a shipper for me to return the warped one. What I get for replacing parts that werent broke to begin with I guess. Glad to see them own up to a defect without a huge argument, but still very disapointed in the product quality for the price. I just hope the new one is good!

New jets and needles came as part of the T6 kit, but I think you may be on to something there! The needle position may be off, and the kit came with several jet sizes... There's a chance I've got two different size jets. Like to think I wouldnt have made a mistake this dumb, But... SOMETHINGS WRONG IN THERE! I've gotta pull both carbs apart and check this out. GOOD ONE! I suspected choke tube between the carbs too. I installed a new on with a clamp on each end already... No change. THANKS, PLEASE KEEP THE IDEAS COMING!

I should mention I dont think its a sync problem because no matter where I adjust the right carb it runs weaker than the left. If it were a sync issue I should be able to open the right throttle more and get it to run stronger than the left... Right? Whats the brass screw on the carb. that goes in at an angle close to the air box??? I've never adjusted either the left on or right (sorry to ask such stupid questions. Just ignorant!) Thanks again for any help you guys can give!!!

I've got a '06 shee that I installed a full Toomey T6 kit on, V3 valves, urathan boots, and a TORS eliminator kit on all at the same time (about 1 hour after I brought it home from the dealer new!), I knew better than to install more than one mod at a time (makes troubleshooting a bch, but did it anyway because I'm clearly retarded! I sycronized the carbs "by eye" watching the slides movement as I moved the throttle. NOW it starts right up in three kicks or less every time, runs PERFECT while the choke is all the way out, or half way out, then as it warms up I push in the choke and the right cylinder goes weak. If I ride it it acts like the right cylinder bogs a lot throughout the whole throttle range. If I tap the throttle to rev it a little then jump on it it'll take off like a bat out of hell, then before long the right cylinder goes weak again. I've taken the right carb apart again, cleaned it, blew it out, checked float level, made sure the slides were in correctly, the correct float bowls are on the correct carbs (left & right), put it back together and... Exact same thing. Tried new plugs, tried swapping plug wires... Same thing. Whatever this is I caused it! It's got to be carb related because its ok when the choke is on (running rich as hell of course). It didnt do this before all the mods. I've tried adjusting the right side idle position screw in and out (brass screw installed in side of carb), adjusting the right throttle position adjustment up and down (adjustment on top carb I've now got with the TORS eliminator kit), at ANY throttle position, even idle the right cylinder is barely running once the choke is in. It'll run great for a few seconds when I jump on it, but thats it... Then no matter where the throttle is the right side goes weak again. ANY IDEA'S??? PLEASE!

I'm thinking a sawzall will slip right in there without having to take anything apart even. Then I can use a file and dremel to smooth it out . I was just worried if FMF or other aftermarket pipes I may end up using in the future might use those tabs. I will say one thing for sure though. While installing the front brake lines I noticed that my experimental boost bottle (experimental because I've heard good and bad things about them and wanted to try for myself) was just barely touching the left pipe of my T6's. Luckily I caught this with only about 20 minutes ride time since the pipes and bottle were installed... (No damage to the pipes at all!) I pulled the bottle, and WOW! HUGE increase in bottom end power!!! It's actually gonna be a great trail machine now!!! Before the power band was so thin it would have been a huge pain in crack to manuever in tight quarters. Now... It's gonna be a blast!!!! Should never have questioned it when so many people said the bottle was junk. But I got it for $20 and figured it was worth a try... JUNK!!!! DITCH THE BOTTLE!!!!

I put on T6 pipes, and SS brake lines... This leaves a big set of dog ears (factory mount tabs) on frame with rubber cushions along the bottom rail under the motor from the factory pipes, and another set of ears just behind the front bumper where the stock brake lines went from hard line to rubber hose on each side. Are these tabs used for ANYTHING aftermarket? Or should I just get out the dremel tool, shave them off, and touch up the paint? Thanks for the input!

It was $89 for the manifolds, $29 for the boots, and then shipping. The boots dont look that bad. The manifolds are junk. I kept trying to call them and am still getting the same message from a month ago. Took the parts to a local shop that sells them and he was good enough to go through his stock until he found a good pair of the same thing (said he will return the ones I got with several of his because they look just as bad). Finally got everything back together and running though! WHEW HOO!!!! Still starts on the first kick, even with bare feet! According to Toomy I should be at 60hp even with the mods I made. Cant wait to test her out this weekend!!!

If your looking for manifolds, or carb. boots look someplace other than UPP!!! I ordered these two products 2 weeks ago, and when they finally came in... All I can say is. HUGE DISAPOINTMENT!!! The manifolds are not molded squarely to the metal backup plate inside. The Urethane they use is aparently mixed by a kindergartener because its full of air bubbles all over the place. The molds arent smooth, so the finish of the product is best described as "blotchy". The thickness of the Urethan used on both the manifolds AND the boots is much thinner / cheaper than factory rubber parts, so the factory clamps wont even work. For $130 (shipped) you have GOT to be kidding me!!! If you try to call them you will get a message telling you they will be out for the holiday weekend over a month ago. They dont answer the phone for a good reason. Product BITES! DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY WITH THESE SCAM ARTISTS!!!

If your looking for manifolds, or carb. boots look someplace other than UPP!!! I ordered these two products 2 weeks ago, and when they finally came in... All I can say is. HUGE DISAPOINTMENT!!! The manifolds are not molded squarely to the metal backup plate inside. The Urethane they use is aparently mixed by a kindergartener because its full of air bubbles all over the place. The molds arent smooth, so the finish of the product is best described as "blotchy". The thickness of the Urethan used on both the manifolds AND the boots is much thinner / cheaper than factory rubber parts, so the factory clamps wont even work. For $130 (shipped) you have GOT to be kidding me!!! If you try to call them you will get a message telling you they will be out for the holiday weekend over a month ago. They dont answer the phone for a good reason. Product BITES! DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY WITH THESE LOOSERS!!!

COOL! Good to hear the parts are going to be worth the wait! Seems like WAY to often I'm hearing about motors getting smoked due to running lean because the manifolds / boots leaked or tore. I've seen a couple dyno charts now with and without the dreaded... Dare I say it??? Boost bottle! Seems the things ARE good for 1-2 hp, and my buddy tells me he's positive theres a difference in throttle responce when he tried one. And they add a little more bling to the engine... Other than tearing the stock rubber manifolds, I dont see any reason to not try one. I picked up a polished Magnum bottle that I'm going to do a little comparison testing with as soon as my UPP manifolds are here.

Differentstrokes, NICE QUAD! I like what you did with the key to. I've got the fortrax bars all mounted up now an love em! The factory key mount fit back in place, but I may remove it and give putting it beside the tank a try... Looks nice!

What bars are you guys running? And, how happy are you with them?? I ride street bikes, other quads, dirt bikes, you name it... The ape hangers that come standard on my banshee were driving me nuts! I just bolted on a set of TAG X5 Fourtrax bars right now cause they're the same bend as my wifes 400EX and that things pretty well setup. Really curious about the CR high bend bars!