MFIC

From what i have read the rotors are the same, calipers are same bolt pattern with the YFZ being 2 piston not 1. The banshee master cylinder would be fine for either setup. Im going to try and do this with the banshee brake setup. The only thing that might not fit is the calipers, might have to space them or something.

Just bought all this from Ebay. Did some research and found out Yamaha 700, 660 and 450 hubs are the same and banshee hubs there own. I also found in my research yamaha 700 and 450 spindles are the same. 660 spindles are there own and the banshee spindles are there own. I only thing i will need to get is a spacer for the a-arms. I'll post up some pics when everything gets here and i can get them on. For the $369.35 i spent its more than worth it in my opinion. I also hope to get some back when i try to sell my takeoffs. Thanks to everyones on here for the info i found in my search. 06 YFZ450 A-ARMS $65.00 06 YFZ450 SHOCKS $165.00 04 YFZ450 SPINDLES $41.36 05 YFZ450 HUBS $49.99 BANSHEE +2 CHROMOLY TIE RODS $48.00

If the cylinder is off and the piston out you can check ring gap. Take a ring and place it in the cylinder as if it were on the piston a inch or so down the bore. Then take the piston and push the ring down another inch or with the doom side to insure the ring is square in the bore. Now you measure the gap between the two ends of the ring. Damn looks like Bansh-eman posted while i was typing.

Check this post out from BigRed350X. CLICK HERE

When you say bogging bad is it from half throttle to full, just at WOT, or as soon as you give it gas?

Try Duncan Racing.

Threebond 1012 is some good stuff if you can find it.

Compression ratio= volume at bottom dead center / volume at top dead center.

Is it a cheetah cub or a cheetah power valve? If it's a cheetah power valve, disregard my previous post.

Most run 155 mains with race gas. Maybe start at 165 or bigger and come down in 5s doing plug chops, jets are cheap replateing is not. Not every motor is the same. Im at 4500ft, 110 race gas, 39mm pwks, RDZ bowl extenders for long runs, 155 main and the power jets open 1 turn making 1230* on the EGTs at WOT.

it should be 0.020 to 0.018.

"timing plate set at +4, dyna ignition set on setting 3 on the programmer" = about +10 timing on 91 octane. Your detonating and rattling the plugs out.

loose the spacers. what intakes do you have, round openings or square on the reed side? If square get the square stuffers from cascade. The intakes i got from Jeff at FAST have round openings in them that match the opening on the V3s. Take your reed cage and hold it up your intakes as if it was bolted up and see if they match up and put pressure on the stuffer to hold the pedals in place.

I went through the same thing with my V3s. If you use a spacer behind the reed cage it will not push on the inner part of the reed cage just the outer. You need pressure on the inner part to hold the reed pedals in place or they move around and chip. Try holding the spacer up against the the back of the reed cage and you will see what i mean.

There is a little hill to play on. :biggrin: