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375hp banshees

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Everything posted by 375hp banshees

  1. Partzilla has both in stock, call n ask 505-503-4455
  2. So you didnt clean your carbs 1st...did you after? Define new heads & if you mean cylinders & brand new. post pics of side view @ intake area & pistons Whats your compression now? You didn't check the reeds when you had them out?
  3. Wow well lubed... that much off shouldn't be enough to worry about Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  4. Carb's sync'd ? Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  5. If it was incandescent yes. If led it doesn't matter how you wire it in, if it's still a.c. it won't work
  6. Yes, just the ALL ones have sold Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  7. j brazo a un A brazo ... o quedarse j brazo?  Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  8. It would be VERY easy, the only tention you'd feel is external shaft spring... i don't think he'd think that was normal... unless he thought he found God's gift to hands, with that new lever that you could pull with your pinky lol Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  9. There's a rod & ball between the clutch shaft ( shaft where the arrows are) and the pressure plate adjuster ( that you adjust internaly) that can weld together. They make a pancake bearing that goes on the pressure plate where you adjust it, so it spins and won't allow it to weld. ive never it happen and cant remember the symptoms off the top of my head. If you end up taken aback apart i'd lean the quad over and let those two fall out and make sure they're OK. I would think, if that is a symptom, somebody else would of mentioned it the earlier though... If you go postal choot da honda!! Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  10. I'd jack up n try before pulling apart again...for now Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  11. You can reuse if it doesnt stick n doesnt rip, its a toss up tho, i edited og post did you inspect ball n rod, pancake? Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  12. They can restick ( & if thats it , it might do it again after it sits again) changing the oil a couple times will usually help. Yes use arrows, take all slack out of cable; so it'll open plates more for now; & see if it'll free up on a jack. Then re adjust when free Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  13. You inspect ball n rod? Gota pancake? Your Plates are probably stuck you can try n jack it up, drop in 1st gear & ride the brake while playing with clutch lever for a while ? Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  14. ^ clean carbs 1st & leakdown before teardown( if you do) along with fixing any thing you can before. There's a lot of horror stories that people rebuild because of the Leak and the new Rebuild blew up quickly, due to same leak! If it ran Perfectly on last ride you might wanna get a GOOD psi tester. It's possible it blew up at the end of the ride but... The plug in the 30 psi hole should have told you alot ( If indeed it was 30PSi) If and when you do rebuild , do a search on Chinese parts, do not waste your time no matter how good the deal sounds. Rebuild the carburetors one at a time ( i'd do this now & try), as not to mix parts up, that is another very common mistake, when you're done and can't get it running, Along of forgetting to put that cross over tube back on Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  15. More than likely a lean pop one of your jets is probably clogged, i' d start there...if it doesn't fix it's self when dry? Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  16. If it was fine before just @ the cable, should do it. Has it been sitting, could just be stuck plates if it was Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  17. ^ if it is loose, might just be stuck fibers...
  18. Fb swap shop Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
  19. You better jump on that deal 1 SKEETER anda atc 70... You gotta tent?
  20. Ask jds customs (87sheerips), i'm sure he can hook u up
  21. I would think the only benefit is extra water/trash storage area though?? And at that point it probably doesn't matter ,you can't drain it anyway ,unless you're taking the plug off, and again it won't matter ??
  22. Before you start drilling take a punch as close to the size of the stud, and smack it as Hard as you dare without messing up the cases, To jar the threads. Drill in the center of stud (CENTER) And work your way up to the largest easy out size brill bit for that stud. drilling in the center (CENTER) each time. At this point you have a couple options: 1- Try the easy out, do not break it (DONOT) 2- Let it soak with penetrating oil, Then see step one 3- Get Some freon and spray inside the hole to shrink the stud, then see step one 4- If step 1-3 didn't work, continue to drill all the way to the bit, that is called for, for that size stud tap, Continue to step 5 5- Use a good hardened pick to spiral out what's left of the stud ( This will work a lot better if you drilled in the center... Very important? If you did good All you have to do is catch the beginning of the coil bend it out a little bit grab it with needle nose and pull. Chase the threads 6- Continue to drill to proper size for heliocoil for that size stud, And insert heliocoil. 7- your fuqed buy new cases Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
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