jbooker82

Yea then that is your problem. I would do both sides.

Is that where it is leaking at? Between the top case half and cylinder under the exhaust port?

Any yamaha dealer will be abe to get them. Call jeff at FAST he should have everything you need in stock.

Probably forgot to install the rubber plugs. They go in the bottom of the cylinder under the exhaust port. They could also be shot. I would replace them if they look questionable.

You can check the float hight by putting a clear tube on the fuel drain nipple on the bottom of the carb bowl. Hold the tube up against the carb body. Then opean the philips screw on the bottom of the carb bowl. Leave the petcock on the tank on. The fuel will flow in to the tube. The fuel will be the same hight in the hose as it is in the carbs. You want that level to be aroun 3mm above the split where the carb body meets the bowl. As for the poping during deceleration that is a lean pilot circuit. Raptors come with 22.5'spilot jets. When you pull the air box lid off then you need to step up to #25's. Reset the fuel scres to 2 turns out. If you still get poping on deceleration then back the fuel screws out a little until it stops. You might try a 148/150 main then. See how the top end is then. Also check the slide springs. I have had them break before.

Dynojet 148/150 mains Needles in the 4 clip #25 pilot jets with the fuel scews 2 turns out. You might use a small clear tube to check the float hight before you tear it appart. Get a small pice of clear tubeing that will fit on the nipples on the bottom of the carb bowls. Then opean up the screw on the bottom of the bowl. Hold the tube up to the carb and the fuel should be at or 3mm above the split where the carb and carb bowl meet.

Ethire way it is a billit impeller. Its #1 job is to replace the weak stock plastic impeller. Faster coolant flow doesn't meen that it is going to make it run cooler. It would be interesting to splice in a GPM flow gauge and see how the impellers stack up to each other. If you need to drop engine temps then look at the bigger aftermarket radiators.

They are not spark arrested though.

Dune ported 4mill with cut stroker domes. That way you can claim your banshee is only bolt on as well.

I would do a dune ported 4 mill, gear it low to keep the rpms up, and a dunable override. So you can bang gears without touching the clutch or letting of the throttle. If your wanting to go bigger skip the 7mm and go for the 10mill. The cost of the cranks, and trenching the cases cost about the same.

A short rod (regular) 4 mill is known to be hard on piston skirts. Hot rods only make 4mill long rod cranks. So if it is a hot rod crank you will be good to go. You will be money ahead to by the modded one.

Try putting the flywheel in quesiton on your friends bike that you barrowed his fly wheel off of. See how the flywheel works with a different stator.

Yea it will work. You will just need a new set of domes. Call noss and tell him what your running he will be albe to hook you up. Tell him your running a 4 mill long rod stock cylinder running blaster pistons. If you tried to run them with banshee stroker domes you would be down on compression and have a huge squish clearance. I had a pair of drag ported 4 mill cylinders resleeved with big bore sleeves. I just ran blaster pistons. They were 66mm through 68mm. Noss cut me the domes. josh

Maxxis I Razr or Duro Hookups (I razr knock off) I run the hookups on my raptor and they work great. 6 ply radials. I am not recomending them because they last forever. The more agressive the tire the shorter the life. Just like running mud tires on the street. Rocky mountain is the place to get them from. Free shipping on orders over 100 bucks.

Blaster pistons are shorter from the wrist pin to the top of the piston head too. I think 795s end at 66.00 or 66.50mm.

Ethirer way you go (CPI, or Shearer)If you want good chrome get them through cascade. I run Cascades CPI's on my FAST Dune ported 4 mill and there isn't even a trace of blue on the pipes.

Jt front sprockets are ok. They are better than a 10 dollar brand X. I run a good 25-30 dollar renthal or tag front spocket. The front sprocket takes the most abuse, so I like to have a good one. Or you could go all out and get a 90+ dollar TI Moly Sidewinder front sprocket.

I decided on a used snapon over a new craftsman. With a snap on you can always send it in to get it re calibrated.

Did FMF ever make a Rev (Top end) pipe. I thought they use to have a Gnarley, Fatty, and Rev.

The stock rod is fine. There is plenty of 90+ hp cub banshee's running a stock crank and rods. Hardly anybody puts new rods on a crank any more. It is cheaper to replace the whole crank with a Hot Rods crank. Call Jeff at FAST. He could be in the 300/350 range for a bore, pistons, and gaskets.

Suposedly the 2's make a little more power on a drag port. The 3's don't have metal scrwes to come loose and run through your engine. I went from 2's to 3's and couldn't tell. The only reason why I switched was Moto Sport had the pair of 3's on sale for 100 bucks.

Since the exhaust pipes have 1200 deg exhaust gasses blowing through them I would imagen that the exhaust would be hot.

I got my snap on tester from ebay. It looks new and paid 125. It came with 3 hoses. 14mm short (like for a chevy 350) 14mm long (banshee) and 18mm short (older cars). I also bought a 12mm long for my raptor 660.

Try using a rubber mallit. deliver glancing blows and turn the silencers, dont just hit on one side.

My boss intake came with mikuni boots