jbooker82

2:1 Carbs kill top end. I would go with the PWK33's on a dune port regardless of T5's or CPI's.

That is what I did with mine. Ran it down the RH side through the rear brake rez bracket and rear master cylinder bracket.

Yea you shouldnt be able to see daylight inbetween the cylinder and sleeve through the intake ports.

Call jeff at fast. I don't know if he carries them but maybee he would sell you one off of a carb. www.sudco.com they are a carb parts wearhouse. By the way you should use the idle screws to adjust the idle. The adjusters on the top are to sync the slides.

Cant wait to see all the suspension companies come out with a arms and axles.

Couldnt have said it better my self. Klotz R50 if you want low smoke and clean burning. Klotz Supertechniplate 80% synthetic 20% benol caster oil. Burns dirtier than R50 but not as bad as Benol. Klotz Benol 100% caster oil but doesnt burn as clean. All 3 are for Premix only / Non injector oil because they are thick. Your not buying a bottle of thined out oil. They have higher viscositys than Amsoil, and have higher Flash Points than Amsoil.

A black shirt with BHQ in yellow, and Banshee Headquarters in silver would be sweet. Kind of like those silhouette stickers you did. Put me down for a Black 3xL

I would say that is part of your problem. Yea the grills look good but they dont allow for air flow. Your going to run hot if your not moving air over the radiator. I dont think those stick on stickers are all that accurate. If it is accuate then chances are the water temp coming out of the head is a lot hotter than 230. You need to get an inline water temp gauge. ESR makes a nice one. It is billit aluminum and comes with a liquid filled gauge so vibration doesnt destroy it. Here is the one on my raptor. You need to put it in the hose that runs from the head to the top of the radiator. You could install one so you could read it through the holes in the gas tank cover.

Have it chrome plated and use it as a paper weight, or a door stop.

Nope the power core II's are not spark arrested. You need Turbine Core II's those are spark arrested. If they meet silver lakes sound requirement I dont know. FMF also has the Q silencer. It is supose to be 96db and it is spark arrested. http://www.fmfracing.com/Mode/Category/104

Cascade does a sweet chrome job. Here is a shot of my CPI's that I got from cascade. There isnt even any bluing on the neck of the pipe.

I believe the Clear:0.0030 is the piston to cylinder wall clearance.

#1 A boost bottle weighs more than the stock crossover tube #2 the boost bottle is taller than the stock crossover. So you have a heavier boost bottle that is taller than the stock crossover. The extra hight allows the extra weight to apply more damaging forces to the rubber intake boots. It is like using a longer cheater handle on a wrench when you have a tight bolt.

Please tell me how a Boost Bottle does a better job equalizing than the stock crossover tube? We are not against carb equalization. I rarely see people saying to ditch the boost bottle and to plug the holes. I usually see people saying "replace it with a stock crossover tube."

Stick with Wiseco pistons. A port job is a great power increase. It is just as noticable as going from stock pipes to aftermarket. They opean up the ports in the cylinders. This changes when the air and fuel come in and exhaust goes out. It is like putting a cam shaft in a 4 stroke. I would stick with a reputable BANSHEE builder since there is more to it than hogging the ports out. Jeff at FAST is a good guy to deal with. Call and talk with him, he will get you fixed up. Your jugs will come back ported and new bore and pistons ready to install. www.farmandsandtoys.com

I guess when it all comes down to it, personal preference is a big factor. Well that and how much cash you have. Ethire carb will be an big improvement though.

You have such pretty toe nails. J/K Looks good.

You cant go wrong with a Dune Ported 4mill. Have the stock head machined instead of running a cool head or spacer plate. If your wanting Conservative pipes then T5's would probably be your best bet. I would stick with some one who knows banshee's. I wouldn't risk having my cylinders ported by an over confident "cycle tech". There is more to it than just hogging the ports out. When you change the shape of the ports you change when air and fuel enter the engine and when exhaust leaves. I vote for FAST. He will tailor the engine to your weight as well as your riding style. In general a Dune port goes for maximum punch in the mid and top end. It has more torque than a drag port, but doesn't rev out quite as high.

Glad you got it going. It kind of sucks tearing the front plastic and fuel tank off to jet the raptor, compaired to poping the pod filter off, turing the carb and pulling the drain plug on aftermarket banshee carbs to get to the main jet.

It looks like the sleeves I had installed in a pair of cylinders that I had re-sleeved. The bore started out at 64mm standard bore, and went all the way up to 68mm bore. I had them punched out to 66mm right off the bat and ran 66mm Blaster pistons with my Hot Rods 4mill long rod crank. Does the cylinder that was re-sleeved still have aluminum against the sleeve like in my last picture. a lot of people knock big bore sleeves claiming they choke the transfer ports down. I am sure the big sleeves that go clear out and in to the cylinder head studs could (72mm Bore). I don't see how mine could because the sleeves didn't even go in to the transfer ports because there is still aluminum in them. Before After

The Keihin Air Striker carb should have 5 vent lines. None of the vents hook to each other. The air striker is a quad vent carb. #1 is the vent / over flow line that is hooked to the bottom of the bowl. #2&3 the vents on that go straight out on the sides up twards the carb cap just go out and down. #4&5 the vents in the same area only they point up. They just go up and over to the other side the ends are left open.

I would go with pwk's as well. 35's are $319 a pair from FAST. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=351 The PWK's have better throttle response due to the slides being a D shaped and thinner than the oval PJ's slides. The PWK's also have a screw that holds the slide open for the Idle adjustment. The PJ's you turn the choke knob to adjust the Idle speed. IF you pick the 34mmPJ's for a better bottom mid range, then why not go with a 33 PWK? Yea the PJ's are a good carb. It has just been around for a while and improvements have been made. Keihin didn't design an inferior carb to replace the PJ's.

I would rather run my boss intake than those upp ones. The clutch arm wont clear the drain plug on the bottom of the keihin carbs with out reed spacers.

Did you put a mikuni 180/185 or a dynojet 180/185? I didnt see the head was ported. I would do the 27.5 too then.

Where the ports Chamfered when you put it back to gether?