jbooker82

You probably should do a compression check to make sure you dont have to run race fuel. 150 psi of compression is about the safe limit for pump premium fuel. If you take the carbs off some time. Take note on what size pilot and main jets it has in it. If it has been siting for a while then maybe you should clean the carbs. That way you know whats in them for jetting, and you know they are clean. It is all good stuff it has there. What holds the carb top on? Keihin PWK28's have a flat plate with 2 or 3 phillips scews. PWK33,35, and PJ34's have a round cap that just scews on. The prodesign cool head is a nice item. I run one on mine. It allows you to change the domes (combustion chambers) out to raise or lower comression T5's are a good mid to top end pipe. The next step up is CPI's but they are more of a drag pipe, made to run on ported engines.

If your wanting yamaha oem plastic then the cheapest place will probably be Yamaha of Troy. That is where I got my 06 LE plastic and grill. They dont come with decals ethire. http://yamahaoftroy.com/

When the cylinder isnt round and straight walls. You cant tell by looking at them but they wear egg shaped only upside down. They also get out of round. The only way to tell is to have them measured in various places with a bore dial gauges. When the clearance is to great then bore the cylinders to the next largest size required to get everthing back in specification. A compression test gives you a good idea. With a stock head at sea level when you start getting close to 100 psi it is time to take it appart and check it out. It might need bored or it might just need a quick hone and a new set of pistons of the same size installed.

You dont buy parts in kits. There is no manufacture that sells kits. The ones your seeing on ebay are just parts that people thow together to sell on ebay. You dont know what you need until you tear it down. How do you know what piston size to buy if you havent tore it appart, let alone checked out to see if the bore is still in spec or if it needs bored. Jeff at fast has great prices. My top end cost around 300-350. That was Labor for the Bore, and Hone, Pistons, Gaskets, and cool head o ring kit. Now is the best time to port the cylinders. It is the next biggest noticalbe mod after pipes. If your crank is bad then you might as well get a 4 mill long rod crank. $400 for a stock stroke crank $435 for a stroker crank. Port jobs for a stock stroke crank and a 4mill crank cost about the same. Crank and Pistons http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&offset=10&cat=ENGINE%20MODS Porting, Boring prices. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/services.asp If you think you can tear the engine down your self then your best bet is to send your cylinders to fast. They will come back witht the proper size pistons ready to install. Then you just install the crank. josh

You really should tear it down to see whats in there. Or at least pop the head off and get some numbers off the top of the pistons. That would give you an idea of what is in it. There is to many varables. Besides you dont want to order pistons before you have the jugs checked out. What happens if you order pistons then end up needing a larger size? You can get a 410cc banshee by running big bore sleeves and a stock stroke crank. You also need to know if the crank is a long rod crank. You can get specialty pistons for big bore sleeves. Most of the time when running a Long Rod crank ethire stock stroke or 4mill most of the time you run blaster pistons. 4 mill Stroker Crank 66.5mm = 403cc's (last bore on stock sleeve cylinders) 67.0mm = 409cc's 67.5mm = 415cc's 68.0mm = 421cc's Stock stroke Crank 68.0mm = 392cc's 68.5mm = 398cc's 69.0mm = 404cc's 69.5mm = 410cc's 70.0mm = 416cc's

Noss Machine head. BHQ members get 10% off. You want to shot for around 150 psi for pump fuel. Call dave noss up. He is a good guy to deal with. Josh

Use the right stuff that is made for case halfs. Three bond, yamabond, moto seal. The case halfs are a machined fit. That is why yamabond is thin and runny it allows the cases to fit together properly. Rtv is thick and could cause loose clearances between the cases and crank bearings.Why do you think yamaha doesn't use a gasket? Rtv doesn't hold up to fuel. Gasoline breaks it down.

Vp's web site says for 2 and 4 stroke. Mix it like normal. Your jetting will probably be off since it is oxygenated. Is it worth rejetting for a days riding? How much is he selling it to you for? What did he charge for c12?

Pj' come in 34's or 36's PWK's come in 28mm, 33mm, 35mm, and a couple larger sizes. The pwk is a newer design. PJ's will get the job done, but it is just an older carb. The slide in the pj's is a oval and is thicker compaired to the pwk's D shaped slide. The idle is set on the pj's bt turning the choak knob, pwk's are set by a screw that lifts the slide. I switched from pj34 to pwk33 and haven't looked back. Why not go with pwk 35's if your building a drag banshee. A drag port doesn't have a great midrange, why try to save something you don't have? If your concerned with midrange then maybe you should rethink the drag port. I have a dune ported 4mill from fast running pwk33's and cpi's. It hauls the mail.

Jeff at fast sells metal replacement screws. Beats the hell out of the factory plastic ones. Do your thumb a favor and get a pair of ez pull slide springs while your at it.

Bump I would like to know too. I have a lot of slop in mine.

Here you go 40 bucks. The long ones go directly over the exhaust port. http://farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=336

I would say it isn't worth it then. How much dunning can you get done when you have to fill up all the time and only have a rage of 10 miles or less on a tank. I would ditch the lectrons and get a pair of Keihin PWK 35's and run it on race fuel. That way you would have a lot longer range on a tank of fuel, and you wont have to purge when your done running methanol.

Yea the main purpose of a cool head is to change the compression ratio, and the ease of machining domes on a lathe vs machining / rechambering a stock head. Cool Heads dont really do much for cooling. Most of the coolant is just circulated and makes its way across the head. I dont see how it would bennifit a banshee to have the coolant flow from the front of the head to the back of the head.

I would say by the pics above that should help with the cleaning up part.

The coolant does go through the head first. It is not like the four strokes where the coolant is pumped into the jug first, then flows up through the head.

Oh forgot about that stuff. We had some good stuff at work. It was a purple snot looking stuff.

How is slime going to seal the bead when it is sitting in the bottom of the tire. Slime is designed to seal holes in the tread. Do like these guys say. Pop the bead and look to see why it isn't sealing. If it stil leaks then tube it.

I checked the piston to wall clearance with a brass feeler gauge at the top of the bore. I knew it was on the tight side at the bottom. I figured I would take it easy and it would wear in. I was wrong. The cylingers were bored for the pistons before I had them coated.

Keihin PWK33's here.

If you want the good chrome then get them from Cascade. They cost more buy your paying for a quality chrome job. That is were I got mine, and they still look this good.

Yep that is where I got my PWK33's from too. I went a head a bit the bullet and got, Taller Adjusters, Metal Idle Scews, EZ Pull Springs, and a carb sync all at once. Ebay was comparable in price but I would rather send my money to a guy that will help me later down the road. Once ebay gets your money and you have the carbs in your hand, goodbye.

The PC-9 really works. When installed my first set of coated pistons, the bore was a little tight on on the bottom. I did 5-6 heat cycles. Then took it out for some light cruising on and off the throttle down some gravel roads. I had ran probably half a tank through it driving down the road. I went to open it up for a quick blast through a couple gears. When I let off the throttle it locked up. Rear tires sliding. I grab the clutch lean back on the seat and start snapping the clutch in and out. I got it to break loose. It idled real slow for a min or two. I then took off and cruised real slow, not even on the pipe. I got back home and it was idling like normal. I did a compression check and it was right at 180-180. 70 gallons later (1.5 barrels of race fuel). I was trail riding and had a cylinder come loose. It blew the gasket out. I got towed back to my truck and loaded it up. Took it home just expecting to put a new set of base gaskets in. It had been running fine, up until the point were the cylinder came loose. None of this damage was done due to the cylinder coming loose because I immediately shut it down and got towed back to my truck. I believe this damage happened when it locked up during break in. It looked like it smeared the coating and that little speck of aluminum in the cylinder was the only aluminum that transfered. Both pistons had damage but just one cylinder had the little speck of aluminum. Just a quick hone and I was good to go with another set of coated pistons.

Wiseco 795 Series Pistons here. The skirts are coated with PC9 dry film lubercant, and the piston heads, and domes are coated with a ceramic thermal barrier. I didnt do it to gain hp but to help it last longer. TBC done on the domes and piston heads. http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10963 PC-9 on the skirts. http://www.swaintech.com/store.asp?pid=10964

See if they would just swap you. If they just offered you a refund then they might be back ordered and wouldn't be able to swap you a set right away. You might talk with them and see about swapping them out if you still want them. I know they will re-plate pipes too. When I bought mine the one head pipe looked used. You could tell that it had been ran on a banshee. I called them and asked about it. They said that it was a return, and had a pin hole in it and leaked a little oil. They said they welded it, pressure tested it, stripped and re-plated it. I couldn't tell other than looking down in to the pipe. I couldn't tell you today which one it was LH or RH. Stuff happens to the best of them, how the company handles it is another reason to keep doing or not doing business with them.