jbooker82

The finish I have is second to none because I bought them from Cascade Innovations. They get them bare from CPI and have them chrome plated by there plater. The still look this good today. I had to space the front hangers out probably 3/8" other wise they would have rubbed on the cylinder head. I just bought a couple chrome plated 3/8" in. thick spacers at the hardware store. It is pretty common to have to space the front hangers on CPI's and Shearers. In frame drag pipes take a little work to get them to mount up. I am running a boss intake with my PWK33's I had to have the LH carb tilted more running the T5's than I do with the CPI's. They kind of curve out a little to go around the carb cap. As for the outer wear I run a cascade heat sleeve on the LH stinger tube that way I don't melt an outerwear. For the exhaust couplers I run the RIS pipe clamps. They have 4 viton orings that seal the pipe up. The one end screws down tight and swells the o ring for a good seal. I wouldn't trade my CPI's, I am happy with them. I have a pingnel fuel valve and there is no interference there. The spark plugs are not to bad to get to. I just use a 13/16 wrench to change them. I still do plug chops with out burning the crap out of my self. You get use to them.

And blaster pistons are shorter from the wrist pin to piston head.

It is not detonation. Detonation is a rattling sound. It sounds like marbles or ball bearings rattling around in the top end. The back fire is from it being lean. A back fire can trash a set of reeds pretty quickly.

Cpi's do what T5's do but they do it better. They come on harder in the mid to top end and they will allow the banshee's engine to turn more RPM's. If you like the feel of the hit T5's produce then you will probaby like the way CPI's hit and come on the pipe. I trail ride my FAST dune ported 4mill with cpi's and pwk 33's.

What kind of stator was it? OEM Yamaha, Ricky Stator, RM Stator?

That is cool. Good things come to those that wait. I have a dune ported 4 mill from FAST and it hauls the mail. I can deffinatly see jeffs point about the phone call vs email. I couldn't even emagine how many emails he gets. Seriouse people use the phone. How many emails do you think he gets where people ask for prices, and talk builds then end up dissapearing. With email your anonimus the phone makes you more personal.

Maybe something like the straight mod quad one would be better. http://www.modquad.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=408

You could have gotten it from fast for $70. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=146 Here is a pic of my black esr gauge on my raptor. The angle is probably not to thrilling on the banshee.

If I drop one tooth in the front I try to add one or 2 to the rear. A cheap chain will streatch more than a good quality one. Chain and sprockets are not an area to go cheap on. I run a RK GB520 EWX or what ever it is called.

I would drop the main a size down. See if you get a screaming top end. Then lower the needle one clip. Don't do them at the same time. You want to get the main 100% dialed in before you start messing with the needle. That way you don't mis adjust the needle to make up for the wrong main jet.

I usually spray a couple coats of coper coat on the base (under the cylinders) gaskets. I have also used the stuff your talking about. Yamabond, three bond, motoseal.

It all depends on where you mounted the temp sensor. Mine is mounted in the radiator hose right in front of the head. That way you get the hotest reading possible. Savage has his mounted in the lower radiator hose. So the temp he is reading is after the radiator has cooled the coolant. He might be reading 200 on his gauge but the coolant coming out of the head might be 220 deg. With that being said I shut mine down at 225 deg or so. Letting it idle with the radiator pointed into the wind drops temps pretty quicky too. Josh

We know a PORTED stock stroke is faster than a NON Ported 4 mill. You didn't say anything about a ported stock stroke vs ported 4 mill. I bet 10mills are really slow since they add even more stroke than 4mills.

I believe they are the same pipe as regular cpi's. They are probably the chrome blems and flaws that customers have sent back. To help reclaim some money they strip and powder coat them instead of trashing them.

Asphalt dragger I would go with a 4mill cub cylinder. You would be money and speed ahead. Stock cylinders can only go so far. In order to get a stock cylinder to run with a cub you really need to know what your doing. Drop a cub cylinder on your cases with some decent carbs and a set of drag pipes and be at 90 plus hp.

So if your building a drag car then you would weld and regrind your own camshat so you could say you built it your self? Or would you buy one that is already machined.

I would upgrade to a billit basket. It will come with new coushins. You will have to take the gear off the back of your stock basket and bolt it on to the new basket. Fixing a oem basket isnt really worth it. josh

When I first got my keihin pwk's I read duncan's jetting guide at least 2 or 3 times a day. It really explains how the keihin's work and the needle explination is great. I couldnt get it to opean right it is probably just my pc but give it a try. http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

I will break it down for you. First letter is the Taper wich affects the transision from the needed to the main jet. So it has an effect around 3/4 throttle. The C is going to be leaner in that area then the D The second letter is the needle length changing this is like changing the clip position. When you all out of adjustment ethire all the way lean or all the way rich. You put in a shorter or longer needle and reset the clip position to the middle. The G is going to be a longer than the E so it will be leaner wich length effects the entire spectrum that the needle controls The last letter is the diameter. The diameter effects the transition from the pilot circuit to the needle so around 1/4 throttle. The K is a smaller diameter than the L so it is going to be richer than the L. Magic Racing has a pretty good selection of PJ, and PWK needles. josh

The esr's are a nice gauge. I have their black one on my raptor. It might be hard to read on the banshee. You want to mount it in the top hose (front of the head to the top of the radiator.) You could mount it in that hose behind the gas tank shroud. That way you can read the gauge through one of the cut out holes.

I believe cgl's same taper and diameter just but the length is longer. Here is a good write up on keihin jetting. It expains the needles funtion really well. http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

I run cel's in my pwk33's with a fast dune ported 4 mill with cpi pipes. 45 pilot and a 155 main at 2200 ft.

Yea you need some washers. Direct drive put them on mine when I was having problems. My error was using locktight. It will cause the lexan to crack.

Do the 12 bolts have washers? I take the whole billit ring off if I need to. Leaving the lexan bolted to the ring.

Klotz Supertechniplate. It is 80% synthetic and 20% Benol Caster Oil. Combines the clean burning properties of synthetic oil with the super tough protection of caster oil. Klotz Benol and Maxima 927 both seperate at lower temps because they contain a high amount of caster oil. 927 still has some synthetic ester oil blended in with the caster oil, while Klotz Benol is 100% caster oil.