jbooker82

No it is not. The coushins inside the basket are shot. Your best bet is to get an aftermarket billit basket. It will come with new coushins. You will have to grind the rivits off that hold the pirmary gear on the oem basket. Then you will put that gear with new coushins on the billit basket. Look at the sticky above for the stock to billit basket swap. josh

I to ditched PJ's for PWK's, I havent looked back.

The main intake duration is set by the port highs of the transfer ports. Those are the ports that fill the cylinders. As for changing the port hights of the intake ports I dont know about.

Gas ports are when you drill small holes in the head of the piston down in to the back of the ring land. That way you use the compression of the motor to force the ring out for a better seal. Usually you run low tension rings, and the gas ports force the low tension rings to seal, instead of running a high tension ring.

Here you go. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/typeDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Intake%2FFuel&webTypeId=454&webCatId=16

They allow air and fuel to be drawn in to the engine and crank case. When the piston goes from bottom dead center to top dead center the volume of the crank case increases. That is what draws air and fuel in from the carbs. When the piston traves from top dead center to bottom dead center the volume decreases. So the reeds shut and the crank case gets pressureized, unitl the transfer ports are opeand. The ports in the piston dont have to close because the reed cage is what stops the air and fuel from being blown back out the carburetors.

B8ES since they are non resisted. You could run a projected tip spark plug. It will hang down in the combustion chamber a little more. BP8ES for the non resisted, or BPR8ES for the resisted. B9ES's are not needed unless your running methanol Your best bet is to send all that junk back. Do a search on here for Ricky Stator. I know you said your stuff is RM Stator but there stuff looks just like the Ricky Stator Stuff. The stuff probably comes from the same crap hole 3rd world country in Asia. I went through 3 Ricky Stators, all of them had High RPM misses. It ran real crusty on the top end. I was chasing my jetting all over the place until a slapped an OEM yamaha one on. I also had a RS flywheel. The rivits loosend up one sheared and it took out my pickup coil.

Yea you need to use the correct sealant. Regular form a gasket, rtv, or ultra coper, black sealer wont work. Yambond 4, honda bond, threebond, or permitex Moto Seal. If your looking at a car parts place, Moto Seal is probably goign to be your best bet because it is made by permitex.

Yea I just put some stabil in the fuel tank (3oz). Rock it back and fourth to mix it up. Then fire it up and let it idle a while. I like to let mine load up a little so there is extra oil in the crank case. Dont forget to shut the fuel off.

Here is the link to the gears. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&cat=CLUTCH/TRANSMISSION&offset=0

What about running a different set of primary gears (crank and clutch basket gears) then running a standard banshee transmission. That way if you didnt like it you could aways pop the clutch cover off and change it. They make different ratio's. josh

Any time you buy 5 gallons of race fuel in the metal 5 gallon cans your getting ripped off big time. Your paying for that metal can. You can save big $$$ buying it by the drum. The first time you buy a drum you will have to pay an extra 40 dollars or so for a deposit on the drum. Then you just trade your empty drum for a full one. I get 55 gallons of Turbo Blue (made by sunoco) for 325 or so. That is not figuring in the drum. VP fuel is also very pricy you can save some cash by running other fuels. http://www.turboblue.com http://sunocoinc.com/site/Consumer/RaceFuels/ Go to the local drag strip, or circle track and see where people get there fuel.

Not that I know of. I just used the regular ProDesign o ring kit when I ran big bore domes. They some times were tricky to get to stay on but I found if I done it like above I didnt have to many problems. josh

Coat the o rings with some vasoline. It will melt when you first fire it up. Put the o ring on the dome, then set the dome over the cylinder. Do the same for the other one. Then put the o rings on the shell. Then slide the shell on. Dont try do put the domes in the shell and slide the whole thing on at once.

I would get an OEM Flywheel. Rick Stator's have been known to come appart. I wouldnt run an RM one ethire. If you want a bran new stator then you can get Ricks Motor Sports for a 2 output high wattage or and OEM new stator for the same price 250.00. Here is my Ricky stator flywheel.

Bel Ray Super Clean. It 100% wont fly off if you give it time to dry like the instructions say to. Since it drys it doenst pickup as much dirt and sand ethire. http://www.belray.com/consumer/product.fsp?pid=1296 josh

I agree. Find a big bore and start from that. I have a 720cc raptor. (660 raptor with 102mm piston and a +4mill crank) Hot Cam Stage 2, Kibble White valves, Kenz Cycle Tech ported head. It reves out rather nicely and has way more torque than any of the 450's could dream of. If you run a stage 3 cam it will rev out like the 450's. I wouldnt trade my banshee for a raptor or my raptor for a banshee. You got to have both. It is fun having complete opposite josh

Here are the billit ones. http://cgi.ebay.ca/Billet-Resevoir-Clamp-for-Works-Shocks_W0QQitemZ330362806880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ATV_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ceb286260&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

And jeff at fast has the best prices on keihin pwk's.

I got mine from works. Call them up with the diameter of the rezzi and the frame tube. They do charge an arm and a leg too.

I would bet you forgot to mix the oil, or the crank had junk bearings before I believe the Klotz caused the failure.

I am sure the Klotz oil was the reason why the crank failed. Maxima 927 will seperate at lower temperatures. It is a blend of caster oil and synthetic ester oils. Klotz R50 is a 100% synthetic oil super clean burning. Klotz Supertechniplate is 80% synthetic and 20% Benol Caster oil. It helps ballance the clean burning properties of synthetic oil with the super tough caster oil. It will not seperate at lower temps. It can be blended with methanol as well Klotz Benol is 100% caster oil it offers the maximum protection at the expence of clean burning. Klotz Benol will also seperate at lower temperatures. Benol blends with methanol. Klotz R50's flash point is 555 deg F vs 927's 420 deg F I run the Klotz Supertechniplate. That way you get the best of both worlds.

I would just go with an OEM. I had a Ricky Stator flywheel and one of the rivits sheared off. The rivit stuck to the flywheel and took out the pickup coil on my stator.

While you have a hole in it I would use a slide hammer and pop the dent out. Then make a contured patch and have them weld it over the hole.

Here is my silencers that I fitted some trinity spark arrestors on. I have to have a spark arrestor where I ride and didnt like the looks of the clamp on ones. I also had the silencers pollished. Before the polish After