jbooker82

TO adjust the idle speed with PJ's you turn the choak knob. Yea you probably have to much carb for your engine. Instead of steping down to stock carbs, port the cylinders. A carb sync tool makes setting the Idles the same really easy. You just hold it up to the bell of the carb and see what # it reads then put it on the other carb and see what # it reads. Then turn the knobs until the are both pulling the same amount of air. Then you can do the same only give it some throttle. I take the thumb throttle cover off and put some thing in there to keep a seady rpm. Then check the carbs. You adjust the carb cables so the carbs are pulling the same air. Now the cables are synced.

I would start out with the air scews 2 turns out. Needle in the middle clip position. If you end up with the air scews under 1 turn out then you need to go up a pilot jet size and reset the air scews at 2 turns out. If you end up at over 3 turns out then you need to go down a pilot jet size. Think of it this way. The pilot jet and air scew work together. Changing the pilot jet is a coarse adjustment. Then you fine tune it with the air scew.

I would start out with a 158 main, and a 50 or 48 pilot jet. Dont run the needles at extreem settings to try to make up for having the wong pilot jet. All that does is cause midrange problems with a better pilot circuit. You can get it close just guessing. After you get it running ok you need to start at the top and work your way down. Starting with the main. Go out for a WOT run see how it feels. It can caugh and spudder getting there but once your at wot you want a clean running machine. After you get the main dialed in then work on the needle. If you end up at the richest needle clip position (all the way at the bottom #5) then you need to swap the needles out for a shorter needle. (CEL). Then reset the clip position to the middle and re tune. After you get the needle sorted out then tune the pilot circuit. This way you dont have a mis adjusted needle to compensate for to large or small of a main, and so you dont have the wrong size of a pilot jet to compensate for a miss adjusted needle. Here is a great keihin jetting guide. Study it well. http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

Your way over jetted. For mains you should be in the 152-160 range. When I was running PJ's they liked a little richer pilot than my pwk's. I would try a #50 pilot. The needles should have 3 letters on them. Like a CEL or CEK, or CGL. There is about 30 different needles keihin makes for them. The needles will have 5 or 6 groves on the blunt end. An E clip goes in one grove. It raises or lowers the needle in the slide. The leanest setting is #1 wich has the needle lowered clear down. It would be in the top grove.

I think the banshee is really sensitive with stators since they don't have a battery to help stabilize the voltage. I think that is why the 4 strokes can get away with running the junk aftermarket stators.

What is your current jetting? Main Pilot What needles What clip position Pilot jet Air screw turns out?

He is talking about Full Flight Racing a arms. I would suggest that you not get them. I had a set of a arms (ASR) that had heim joints. They squeeked and poped after 2 rides. Get an a arm that runs ball joints you will be much happier. If your not a full blown mx racre then I would also look for a set that is NON Caster adjustable. If you dont get it set right then it will be hard to steer.

Is the bearing on the transmission out put shaft nice and tight.

The factory basket is not drilled and taped. I think you would ruin the basket trying to remove the rivits. If your to cheap to buy a billit basket then find a used one that is still good.

With CPI's you usually have to space the front hanger out more times than not no matter what hanger your using. I think that was more your issue. I had to when I was running OEM hangers, and have the same spacers in there for my TM Design Works hangers. Best Hangers Money can buy. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=16267&cat=299&page=1

I would say they are for the front. That is why they come with spacers. If they were for the rear then they wouldnt have spacers. I would put the rubber between the spacer and the hanger.

The Black and Red wires your talking about are for the KEY not the kill switch out on the end of the bar's. You can remove the headlight / kill switch. Then get your a honda cr125 kill switch. It will plug right in to the yamaha wiring harness. The head lights part of the switch will have a big plastic plug. The kill switch is just has 2 bullet conectors, and the wires are black, and a black with a white stripe. When you gound the black white stripe wire it kills the engine. josh

Yea I would not want a floating crank. I would emagine that would really eat up the cases. I run a 4mill crank with standard bearings with o rings in the center. A max load bearing on the flywheel side (has more ball bearings than the standard) and a TZ roller bearing with the stock angled pto gears. I have no fancy razzile dazzile machine work done to the cases. I have never herd of anybody else doing it ethire. Call matoon machine see what they say. They cnc billit cases for 18mill + stroker cranks. I don't think their billit cases have machined o ring groves. Josh

Its not hard you just hog everything out as big as possible.

In that article they rated the itp's over the skat track tires. So that tells you what kind of a review it is, and the quality. So I guess by the review the Sand Sand stars are more favorable still.

I use cable life kit. It comes with the lube and the lube tool. It clamps on the end of the cable and forces the lube through the cable. It works really good. josh

When ever I go to slide the rear end of my banshee around with my Extreem Haulers (Straight Blade) it lifts the front end up and launches me straight. They do what a straight blade paddle tire does best. Going Straight. Yea you can still dune and trail ride with them but for playing and sliding the rear end around the Sand Stars will be beeter. They are a V paddle, the advantage of the v paddle is they turn way better than a straight blade. I have both Sand Stars, and Extreem Haulers. josh

Yea that sound about right. The banshee is a gas hog. Especially when your ported and have larger carbs. If you drop the compression back down you will notice a loss in mid range. I don't even mess with buying race fuel 5 gallons at a time. Buy your self a 55 gallon drum.

Klotz Supertechniplate all the way. Why run a oil that is designed to be used as an injector oil. It is thined down so it will flow at low temperatures. Klotz is thick and pours like honey.

You might have to go up 1 main but probably not. Generally if your jetted corectly then you need to rejet for adding compression, and timing.

I would go with FAST. Great guy to deal with, and does excelent work. josh

It depends on how stuff checks out. Any reputable banshee shop will measure the cylinders, and pistons to see if they are in spec. What all was involved in the rebuild? Did you just put new pistons in the current bore size or did you have it bored, and new pistons put in. josh

I run 20x10x10 9 paddle extreem haulers. If you run to many paddles then it will kill performance. You need to have some wheel speed.

Dont get a deg key they are weak and can shear off. Get an adjustable stator plate instead. Make sure you use the correct flywheel puller. Dont use a 2 or 3 jaw puller it will bend the flywheel. V force reeds dont really ad HP. They will make for a better throttle responce. Most people shoot for 150 psi to run on pump premium fuel. A new top end, with stock porting at sea level is supose to be 130 psi. If your altitude greatly effects the compression your engine generates. If i was you I would take the money you were going to spend on the Vforces and get a noss head, Then just get some replacemt carbon tec reeds for the oem reed cages. josh

Here is the link http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85373 You can see how the black oem coushins are loose and worn out in the pic vs the new red ones that fit tight. josh