jbooker82

That's why you run a 4mill. It allows you to run more agressive porting and pipes while maintaing a decent mid range. A dune port is a perfict match for the banshee. It makes for a strong mid range and top end.You do give up low end in exchange for the mid and top end gain. The Banshee wasn't built for low end, if you need to go slow and lugg it get a 4 stroke. CPI's do what Toomey T5's do only better. I trail ride my dune ported 4 mill with CPI's no problem.

Yea you will be able to get a good mid to top end. That is what a dune port is. CPI's work really well with a dune port. They should work good (much better than stock pipes) on a stock port. I wouldnt suggest running cpi's with a stock port IF you PLAN on NOT PORTING. If your dead set on at least a dune port down the road then I would get the cpi's now instead of get an all around pipe (toomey, fmf, pro circuit, paul turner) then later trying to sell that and buying cpi's.

Pipes $390-490 depending on finish. http://www.cpiracing.com/Products/Yamaha%20ATV/Default.aspx Any builder will be able to get you the domes you need. They are already machined. Stock stroke Build Porting Around $400 Pistons $165 Bore and Hone If needed. $90 Stock stroke build cost. $655 or so. 4mill build. All the above plus Hot Rods 4mill Long Rod stroker crank. $435-450 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78 Noss Cool head $195 (you can also get one from FAST, HJR, Wild Card or maybe others) It is the same Noss Head just engraved with their logo's. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm Coold Head Stroker Domes $80 4mill build $710-760 So the 4 mill will cost you $710-760 dollars more if you do it right now. If you deside to buil a stock stroke now and build a 4 mill later, then you will have paid for both builds, and have to buy an extra pair of cylinders to have ported for the 4 mill. Once you port your stock cylinders for a stock crank and up grade to a 4 mill you usually cant report the cylinders. A stock stroke dune port with cpi's will be a fun ride. I would highly recomend it over a stock port, but if your not going to be satisfied then I would do this. Buy the pipes, and Cool head with stock stroke domes now. Run that and be happy. Then start saving $$$, and buy the parts as you can afford them. Dont buy the pistons. Then when you have the money saved up for Port work, pistons, and stroker domes, send you juggs off. Let the person you have port the cylinders measure the cylinders and determine what size pistons you need, (if you need to bore or not). Thay way you get the right ones. Be aware that the big name people are going to take a 2 months or so to get the work done because they are buisy. Brandon at wild card will probably have a quick turn around time, HJR advertises a 2 week trun around, so if he can get your jugs in. I run a FAST Dune Ported 4 mill and am super happy with it. He ports it for rider weight. A bigger guy will like a little more grunt and give up a few horses on the top end, vs what a light weight guy will like. If you dont see your self building a 4 mill then dont be afraid to port for the stock crank. I wouldnt hold out years saving to build a 4 mill. Talk to the site sponcers get some priecs, see what their turn around time is. Dont turn to ebay because ebay isnt there helping you if you run in to problems. Yea we can help you but it is nice to have a PRO you can call on the phone for help if you need it. josh

Yea you can run wiseco blaster pistons. That is what I ran when I had a 66mm-68mm big bore stock cylinder 4mill long rod. You will need to get a set of domes. Call up noss machine he will get you hooked up with what you need.

That and the vito's cylinders probably come with port timings out of the box that are at least a dune port if not close to a drag port.I would check into it before you buy them.

The only other thing you have to have is a cool head with stroker domes. You don't have to have a longer swing arm, or larger carbs. Besides once the engine is built the rest bolts on. Once you port your cylinders for the stock stroke they cannot be reported for a 4mill.

None. A 4mill stroker is a nice machine. They have more grunt in the midrange. I have a dune ported 4 mill running cpi's and keihin pwk33 carbs. It is a really fun ride.

I believe both the keihin pwk 28mm and the knock off 30's have a flat plate with screws. Keihin pwk 33's and up have the screw on round cap.

Not true. It has to be a motor cycle "wet clutch" oil. The oil you run in your car has friction moddifiers and will cause the clutch to slip. A quart of motorcycle oil and 2 stroke transmission oil are about the same price. Yamaha does it so they didnt have to come up with a 2 stroke transmission oil. It works and gets the job done but there are better alternatives out there.

If you dont MX race then I would have recomended getting a pair of a arms that are not caster adjustable. If you dont get the caster set right then It will be hard to steer went the bars are turned completly and easy downt the middle or vs versa. It is nice to just set the camber and toe and not have to mess with the caster. No one will be able to tell you to turn a cetrian joint 10 times out from fully seated. Your going to have to find that out on you own. I would suggest getting a good angle finder. Here are the specs that LSR recomends. http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

If you got the cash then have your stock cylinders Dune Ported and get a set of CPI's. You could run the cpi's on a stock ported cylinders and be ok if you plan on porting them. If you dont port the cylinders then the T5's would be a better pipe. Pipes and a Port job are the 2 biggest HP gains for the cheapest $$$ per hp gain.

Here is some of snop's info about PC's. His dynosheets dont come up but his comments about each setup is there. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105993&st=0&p=917668&hl=Dyno&fromsearch=1entry917668 josh

So using your school of though then the Single PWK 35mm would have wores bottom end because it would be like running dual PWK 35's since it only breaths once cylinder at a time. This is true acording to your train of though. I havent heard of any one claiming a loss in bottom end with an increase in top end with a 2:1. Most claim a better bottom end with the same or a little better top end over the stock carbs. You could event take this though farther and say that a 2:1 exhaust pipe is just as sweet because it only exhales one cylinder at a time. Here is Snoops Dyno thread where it tested these 3 setups. 2:1 carb with a 2:1 exhaust pipe. 2:1 carb with Dual Pro Circuit Exhaust pipes Dual Mikuni 28mm Flat Slide carbs, and Pro Circuit exhaust pipes. Looks like he has moved the dynosheets so they dont show up in the thread. Maybe he will post them here. His comments about each setup is still there though. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105993&st=0&p=917668&hl=Dyno&fromsearch=1entry917668 josh

Yea you don't have some one that doesn't know what they are doing port your cylinders. If they open the ports up to much or make them the wrong shape or with the wrong angles then your cylinders are junk.

Your original post was 10:53 am. You had it ordered by 3:23 pm the same day. If you wanted more oppinions then you should have waited longer. I would have boughten one off ebay. That way your not out near as much money when you decide it is junk. Its not like your going to come back here and say "you guys are right, it is junk". We will just have to wait for you to ask for jetting advice for another pipe.

That is true, but as rpms increase so does the speeds of the pulses. At some point they have gotten to a point where it is like a constant flow. Now you have 2 cylinders breathing through 1 carb. That is the point where the 2:1 carb costs you horse power. 2 smaller carbs will give you just as good bottom end, and you will have a better top end over the 2:1.

I am not sure. I ran my resleeved big bore cylinders with a 4mill stroker crank. 66mm with the 4mill was 400cc. 68mm would be 421cc. I would have them resleeved by some one who works on banshee's. That way you don't get some goof ball trying to put there majic touch on the port work, tring to get a little more power. Then get your wrecked cylinders back. Talk with wildcard he is a good guy and knows what he is doing.

You might as well go with big bore sleeves and gain some displacement. Go for the 66mm-68mm sleeves. Don't get the huge 68mm-70mm sleeves. The will cut in to the transfer ports and choak them down.

Yea it worked pretty well. They have a real nice glossly look. Like they are wet all the time. I think they made the switch when they switched bulb style. Dont the earlier banshee's use a H3 halogen bulb, and the new ones use a H6M.

Does this keep you awake at night? I believe how the sling shot works is. The channels that the ball bearings are in is a ramp shape. So as the rpms build it forces the balls up the ramp. That causes the lock up to slightly expand and put pressure on the pressure plate. I dont own a sling shot but I bet it can be adjusted by the # and weight of the ball bearings too.

Yea the stock stator will run them fine. They are a 35w bulb just like the factory ones. They are way brighter due to the color of light they produce though. I have them in my Banshee and Raptor and would do it over again. I went with the Original Piaa brand too. There is some people selling a knock off no name brands on ebay. You can get kits at auto parts stores for doing this as well. I just used a Crystal View kit (chrome bag has a big CV on it) on my 91 explorer. They look bran new. The CV kit comes with 2 pieces of 1000 grit, 2 pieces of 2000 or 2500 grit paper, 6 polishing cloths, 2 pouches of plastic polish, 4 pouches of sealer. The ones on my explorer were pretty bad so I bough some 400, 800, and extra 1000 grit paper. I didnt want to wet sand all day with 1000 grit paper. I also used a polishing buff wheel in a 1/4 in angled die grinder for the polishing. The sealer in the kit reminded me of tile floor wax. It was milky color and dried clear. You put 2 coats on each head light with the provided polishing cloths. I would HIGHLY recomend the CV kit. It worked out great. You can get the kit at wal mart for $13 http://www.myheadlight.com/ josh

My last top end I broke in with Quaker State oil from wal mart. Running any oil over another type is purely preferance. The only way your going to lock up an engine due to oil is when you FORGET to put any oil at all in it. I love the post where people claim/blame there engine failure due to what brand of oil they were runnig.

Yep just do a couple heat cycles, re torque the jugs, and head. Take it eazy for the first 5 gallons. Then ride it like you stole it.

At 66mm bore your in the grey area. Your at the end for standard bore domes. I would run 66-68mm big bore domes, that way you will have less sealing problems. Big bore domes move the o ring out slighly, and dont have a full machined gove. The out side lip isnt there so it is like a half of a grove and the shell makes up the other part of the groove. As for cc's that depends on what elevation you ride at, if the engine is ported, and what octane of fuel you want to run. josh

Run what ever oil at what ever ratio you plan on running after break in. Your Yamaha Dealer does realize that R2 is a Semi Synthetic righ?