jbooker82

I would say you need to re adjust your floats and try it. Since your carbs are over flowing it that is proabably the reson why it seems to run rich, and masks the problem of having to lean of a main jet in the lower gears. Then once you opean it up the false rich caused by over flowing carbs cant keep up and the lean condition shows up.

I dont know. Yea it is a good deal but what happens if you cant find parts for it. I would only run a head that uses the standard Pro Design Domes (Pro Design, Noss, Charriot, ect). That way you can get different domes, and find o ring kits.

Get a Chariot Timing Plate. Ricky Stator plates are crappy cast aluminum for 35-40 bucks. Chariot Timing Plates are CNC billit aluminum and cost 50 bucks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-6061-Billet-Adjustable-Stator-Timing-Plate_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414c6b1f09QQitemZ280454962953QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories As for the reeds you wont really feel any power increase. They more or less help improve throttle responce. I would up the compression before you do reeds. You can ethire have your stock head modded, or buy a cool head. A cool head is pretty slick. It uses all o rings to seal instead of a head gasket. They have domes or combustion chambers that you can switch out to change the compression ratio. What elevation do you ride at? You want to shoot for 150 PSI of compression to stay running pump premium fuel. 150 psi of compression and timimg set at +4 on premium pump fuel will be a desent boost in midrange. josh

That and some of the Liberty's that he was granted as an American. A felony takes away your right to vote, and the ability to own or posess a fire arm.

Nothing like sporting a hoodie from a web site where your NO LONGER welcome.

I dont like haveing the dual lines running from the master cylinder. I would rather have the T that you mount to the frame then run the lines from it to each wheel.

I would use a short piece of chain imbeded in to concrete. Then chain it with a kryptonite chain. They make a 14mm hexagonal links, and a 15mm round link https://www.kryptonitelock.com/products/list.aspx?cid=1000&scid=1002

There has been more non union jobs shiped to china than union jobs. Your just as guilty for buying from china, as companies shipping jobs over there. In my eyes, the Junky is just as bad as the Drug Dealer.

Yea I am sure PC wouldnt sand off an original number to stamp it like that. If they did stamp it I am sure they would have one big stamp that would do their whole "globe" logo with one wack of a 3 lb. hammer.

It sounds like you really were going to post some pics. Yea I will give you credit for trying to email them, but what good does that do when some one 2 weeks or 2 years down the road is using the search trying to find some information, and your long gone. This is the statement I have a problem with. Dont play it off like you have had time to post pics. You never had any intension of posting pics.

You would be better off ditching the 2:1 for any other aftermarket exhaust system. Their sound is the only thing they have going for them.

Mine are nice and tight. I spray them with a lite coat of cable life lube. It is designed for cables, and carb slides.

That was originally designed for chain saws and weed wackers. If your a die hard amsoil fan run Dominator it is designed for Racing 2 stroke engines with high hp.

I would just build it now using a cool head with stroker domes. Then look for another pair of cylinders to be sent out to be setup for the 4mill long rod. Chances are that your cylinders wont be able to be reported for a 4mill unless it isnt a very agressive port job.

I wouldnt run it in my banshee. 8oz of oil for 5 gallons of fuel isnt enough for me. 1 quart would treat 20 gallons. I wouldn't go past 50 to 1. I run 40:1 my self.

Porting on a 2 stroke vs. a 4 stroke are completly different. On a 4 stroke your just smothing the castings out to improve flow. On a 2 stroke your rasing the ports, and changing the angle of the ports. When you change the port hight and shape your changing how the engine breaths. Porting on a 2 stroke controls when the exhaust goes out, and the fresh air and fuel come in. It is like putting a cam shaft in a 4 stroke. I wouldn't trust my cylinders to a guy that does general 2 stroke porting, let alone one that doesnt have any experiance. Take them to some one who has there reputation built on building banshee engines. Just cause you have ported a chain saw doesnt mean you know how to port banshee cylinders. You could do the 4 mill, run a cool head with stroker domes, and leave the cylinders not ported. You will be missing out big time though. It will run and you might notice a little gain in power. It wont be near as fast as a stock stroke ported banshee though. josh

Your regulator / rectifier should dump the excess electricity off as heat, before it cooks the battery. Some thing isn't right.

x2

Yea I doubt your going to get any. Click on his screen name it will show when he was last logged on / seen. You know he has read this post. He is just ignoring it, like it isn't even here.

Put it in gear and dump the clutch with the brakes on.

Yep time for a billit basket.

Just drag race him and see who wasted there time and money. When you put a 2mm thick spacer plate under the cylinders your physically raising the cylinders. That in turn causes you to raise all the ports 2mm. So they don't open when they should when compared to degrees of crank shaft rotation. A 4 mill crank will cause the piston to fall 2mm farther down in to the cylinder, and pop up 2mm out of the cylinder. You cant have the pistons hitting the head so you have to space the jugs up off the cases, or run a cylinder head that has been cut. (usually a cool head with stroker domes). So when you put a 2mm thick spacer under the cylinders, the piston now doesn't pop out 2mm out of the top, but it falls 4mm farther down the cylinders. So now the piston falls 2mm farther down below the ports which isn't good for performance. The best way (the way you did it), is to run no spacer plate. Most builders that port for a 4 mill start off by lowering the ports. That way the piston isn fallen 2mm below the transfer and intake ports. Then they don't have to raise the top of the transfer ports very much because they opened them up down wards already. That is why you hear guys say once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank you can't have them reported for a 4 mill. When they port for a stock stroke crank they just raise the top's of the ports. Then when you go to a 4 mill they need to lower the ports back down to they are level with the piston. Now you have transfer ports that are way to big and performance suffers. Yea if you don't have a very aggressive stock stoke port job you might be able to have them reported for a 4 mill, but the builder will have to determine that. josh

I would like to know how you gain power by causing turbulance in the exhaust system. The reason for packing is to keep the exhaust gasses flowing straight out of the silencer. A lot of people think LOUDER is FASTER, that isnt the case. Just pull your pipes clear off and let the exhaust blow directly out of the cylinders. That has to be the loudest and most powerfull.

I had a lightened flywheel, and traded it for a stock one. I didnt like how it felt. Yea it might feel a little snappier but it also fell of and bogged way easier. I weigh 250 so the extra torque feeling of the oem flywheel is what I prefer.

Is it bad when you turn the key and kill switch off and the engine keeps running?