jbooker82

I think the problem is the tires. Those pure sport fronts are squared off. They look like an old narrow bias ply tire off of a model T. That is why they are digging in the corners. There is a reson why every other mx or genral front tire is rounded. I rode a blaster with those front tires and it drove like crap. I dont know if they were pure sports, or fast treakers but they were bad. I run Duro Hookups on my raptor. They are a 6 ply RADIAL tire. They are a knock off version of the Maxxis I razr. The tread lay out on the Duro Hookup's is a little farther spacing (more agressive.) Duro Hookup's Maxxis I razr's

Long Rod because it puts less side load on the piston skirts. It is a reliability mod.

What size where the wiseco's you took out, and what size are the namura's that you put back in?

They said about 3/4 inch. http://www.bluetraxx.com/forums/yamaha-yfm660r-raptor-2001-2005/57254-will-banshee-axle-fit-raptor-widen-rear.html

the axle will work but it will be extend farther on one side than the other.

Well good luck, and let us know how you come out.

I wasnt trying to be mean. Next week there will be another thread that has to do with ebay's / ebay sellers customer service. People buy first then ask questions later. It just seem like people dont even give the site sponcers a chance. They just turn to ebay to get there parts then want free advice from engine builders / site sponcers. Fast sells a hot rods 4mill crank for 435. Pistons are 82.50 each gasket set is 26.95 Gran Total $626.95 Jeff is actually cheaper than that kit. Dunetire sells there kit with a no name crank for 650. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350267746958&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Its a good thing you didn't do business with a straight shooter. I would hate to give my money to a site sponcer that has good customer service. Jeff at F.A.S.T. sells a hot rods 4mill crank for $435.So how much did you save by going the cheap route? Was it worth it? Some times you get what you pay for. Other times you don't get that. Let us know how it works out. Josh

It is just a knock off crank. Make sure in your paypal claim you point out that he has a hot rods crank pictured and what you received was a knock off no name brand crank.Point out that hot rods say hot rods on the conecting rods, and have a red center section.

The picture in there auction looks like hot rods box. What does the one they sent your crank in look like?

Yamaha actually recomends running Yamalube R2 at 24:1. If yamalube isnt avalable then there is another oil they recomend at 20:1. Thats a lot of oil.

I dont believe that is a hot rod's crank. Hot rods have a red seperator between the crank, yours is black. It will also say hot rods on the conecting rods. Yours looks like a $200 dollar no name crank off of ebay. Look on the sides of your conecting rods. There is just a blank Oval shape. (kind of reminds me of a craftsman wrench). The hot rods dont have that. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78

I would believe your first statement before I would believe your second one.

I dont know if you will be able to find an aftermarket big bore cylinder for mx use. A true mx buil has an emphisis on low end. You can gain a lot of power by porting but it is the wrong kind of power. You dont want a high rpm screamer on an mx track cause it wont have the low end you need to pull out of corners. Since you can gain so much power by porting most aftermarket cylinders come with at least roughly a dune port. If your truely building a mx banshee then I would do a mx ported 4 mill before I would run a stock stroke aftermarket cylinder. Maybe some one will chim in that knows of an aftermarket cylinder that isnt ported verry agressivley. You might talk to Passion Racing Engines. He has built some pretty fast flat track (short track) engines. They need to have a smooth torq down low so they dont spin the tires coming out of the corners. http://www.passionracingengines.com/index.html

That is why I like my 2 pice pro design. I always though your (Noss Machine) heads were one piece. My banshee came with the PD head. If I buy one it would be a Noss Machine head, except it would have to have F.A.S.T. engraved on it. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=183

Here is what the Pistons and Domes look like fresh from being coated. The coating on the skirts is pretty tough. It didnt scrape off when it locked up, it just smudged it. I tried using Tech Line coatings to do my raptor piston my self. I couldnt get it to stick very good. The ceramic would bubble up on the piston head, and so would the dry film coating on the skirt. The stuff they sell to consumers is a water base. The stuff they sell to professional coaters is a solvent base. They wont sell you the solvent base. You have to get the coating applied super thin or it will bubble up. I was using a Passat VL air brush and still couldn't get it. I have used there WSX try powder. That stuff is super slick. I dont know how long it lasts since you just rub it on and dont bake it. Any way here are the pistons. Coated Dome after being ran.

Here is what the cylinders looked like. Just a tiny speck of aluminum transferd from the pistons to the cylinder wall. I just used a hone and cleaned it up. The bore was fine, still with in specification. I installed another set of pistons coated by swain tech. Who knows how long it would have kept running with those pistons if I didnt have to pull a cylinder to replace a base gasket. I had run 55 gallons (1 barel of race fuel) through the engine since break in.

Yes I did spend the time and money to have the pistons coated. The guy that did the bore and hone job knows what he is doing. He is a pretty respected guy that builds banshee engines. I am not going to name his name and thow him under the bus. I had the pistons coated after the cylinders were bored and honed. That is what swain tech recomended. The bore was a little tigh down on the bottom side of the cylinder, below the intake ports. I dont have a bore gauge to check the specs, but I used a feeler gauge. I could get the correct one inbetween the piston and cylinder, it was just a little tight. I didnt have a hone to fix it my self, so I though I would take it easy and see how it goes. I heat cycled it 5 times, then took it easy for a tank of fuel. On my second tank of fuel I warmed it up, and went out for some gravel rode riding. I opeaned it up and ran it through all 6 gears. Then let off the throttle. As the RPMs started coming down it locked up and slid the rear tires. I snaped the clutch to break it loose. I let it idle 5-10min and cool down with the radiator pointing in to the wind. It ran fine after that. Never had another problem of it wanting to lock up. The compression never dropped. It stayed at 180/180. 55 gallons of fuel later. I was trail riding and noticed that I started having a lingering Idle. It seemed lazy. I look down and see the side of the base gasket blown out. I had a cylinder that came loose and the crank case pressure blew the gasket out. I imediatly stoped and got towed back. It only ran like that for 2-3min tops. I get home and pull the jug off to replace the gasket and found this. I took the other cylinder off and it had the same thing. It probably happend when it locked up on me.

I tried to coat my own pistons with tech lines coatings. I couldn't get it to stick.The stuff they sell you and the stuff the pro's use are totaly different. I run pistons and domes coated by swain tech. I have them put the ceramic thermal barier on the piston crowns and domes. The put their PC-9 moly coating on the skirts. I didn't do it for the power, I did it of the reliability. I got pics of some pistons that were coated and the bore was to tight at the bottom.It locked up and slid the rear tires. I hurried up grabed the clutch, and snaped it a couple time to break it loose. I let it idle and with the radiator pointed in to the wind. It ran fine after that. No compression lose, and was the same on both sides 180/180. 55 gallons of fuel later. I had to take the jugs off to replace a base gasket. I will post pics tomarrow. The coating saved my cylinders from needing bored. It does work.

You need a banshee flywheel puller. You can get them for around 15 bucks. Don't use a 3 jaw puller you can bend the flywheel. You just take off the flywheel. Remove the stator. Then put the stator on the new timing plate. Set it at +4 ( you use the seem where the case half's meet as the indicator). Bolt it down, install the flywheel. Set the pickup coil gap between the flywheel nodes and pickup coil. Just use a match book cover or business card. Make sure you check both nodes. One might be slightly taller or shorter. Go off the tallest one. It will make the mid range a little stronger. The same goes for upping the compression. You can run 150 PSI of compression with +4 deg of timing on pump premium fuel. No re jetting required because your not increasing the air flow through the engine. After pipes Porting is the next big step up in power. It is just as big of a difference as going from stock pipes to aftermarket. josh

You need a banshee flywheel puller. You can get them for around 15 bucks. Don't use a 3 jaw puller you can bend the flywheel. You just take off the flywheel. Remove the stator. Then put the stator on the new timing plate. Set it at +4 ( you use the seem where the case half's meet as the indicator). Bolt it down, install the flywheel. Set the pickup coil gap between the flywheel nodes and pickup coil. Just use a match book cover or business card. Make sure you check both nodes. One might be slightly taller or shorter. Go off the tallest one. It will make the mid range a little stronger. The same goes for upping the compression. You can run 150 PSI of compression with +4 deg of timing on pump premium fuel. No re jetting required because your not increasing the air flow through the engine. After pipes Porting is the next big step up in power. It is just as big of a difference as going from stock pipes to aftermarket. josh

So what happens when you need to bore for a rebuild? You have to take the studs out when you do that. The I haven't ever ran a 1 piece head. Dave Noss ( Noss Machine) makes some nice stuff. He is a good guy in general. If you end up getting a noss head, you can order one from FAST, HJR, or Wild Card. They buy heads from Noss and have them engraved with their company logo. Or you can buy it directly from Noss Machine. Noss heads run the standard pro design dome. He makes all kinds of domes to suit your needs as well. I run a Pro Design 2 piece head. I like the 2 piece head because it makes for an easier installation. Grease up all the o rings with some Vaseline, or petroleum jelly. Then put the o ring on the dome. Then set the dome over the cylinder bore. Do the same for the other one. Then put the o rings on the base. Take the elbow off the back of the base. Slide the base over the studs and domes. Then install the top cover and torque down. Then put the elbow in the hose and bolt it back on the head. The 2 piece allows you to easily line up the domes as your sliding the shell on. That way you don't have to try to put the domes in the head and slide the whole assembly on at once. Trying to keep orings from falling out. josh

Is that one of your friend's bikes, with the cut and raised frame to make it a little taller?

Klotz Suptertechniplate at 40:1 It combines the load carying properties of Klotz Benol Caster oil (20%) with the clean buring properties of Klotz Techniplate synthetic oil (80%)

Yea I think it is too. Only the review was done right. Thanks man. Your stock radiator cap should fit. It is just the standard import size cap. The should all be the same.