jbooker82

Yes I believe so. So you might get away with running it and not having any problems. You will have to run dual regulators and dual circuits to use the full 250 watts.

I have done that twice with ricky stator's. Both were on dune trips from nebraska to little sahara in oklahoma. You cant exactly run back home to get what you need. I was just gald I had an OEM as a backup. I wont run anything but an oem. I shelled out 300 bucks to get a bran spanking new one as a back up. It isnt worth the head ache for me.

If you absolutly need a high out put stator I would run a Ricks Motorsport Electrics stator. The down side is that they are expensive. You get what you pay for. If dont want to break your wallet out then chances are what ever brand of stator you get is going to come from the same place, tiwan or china.

Yea if your head uses standard pro desing style domes jeff probably has the domes you need on the shelf. He is a good guy to deal with and builds some fast engines. I have a dune ported 4 mill from him running cpi's and pwk 33's. It is a very fun machine to ride. Jeff is a good guy.

Gost pipes are ok. The Poltergeist pipes are bad ass though. Kind of like comparing FMF's to Shearers.

I would bet you would get pretty good life out of a Stock OEM banshee clutch running a lockup. I have a Barnett Carbon Fiber clutch kit running a Direct Drive Lockup with OEM Yamaha Springs. It has held up fine but it just makes the oil dark. Like I said if I had it to do all over again it would be a fast clutch.

I would run a FAST clutch over vitos. They hold up, and jeff is a great guy to do business with.

Knock your self out. There is only one way to learn. Most guys that run a non spacer 4 mill run a cool head. That way they can throw a set of stroker domes in and not have to worry about modding the stock head. Get ahold of david noss at noss machine. He can hook you up with what ever custom dome you need. He is a great guy. As for the spacer if you do run one it doesn't leave you with as many options. Say you automatically lower the ports 4mm so the are flush with the piston crown. Then come to find out your transfer ports are to large. Where if you run no spacer, lower the ports 2mm. You have the option to do some work on the top of the port to dial it in with out going over board and making them to large.

Even if they did build pressure you have to enclose the entire carb. Otherwise the pressurized carb won't draw fuel from the bowl. The air pressure will just blow the fuel out of the carb vents.

Deffinatly get a cascade pancake bearing. FAST carries these as well. It replaces the adjuster in the center of the pressure plate. The factory setup relys on a ball bearing runnin on the end of a rod for the clutch disengagement. The pancake bearing uses a flat roller needle bearing. It keeps the ball and rod from welding them selves together.

I would prefer to run a clutch that has cork for a friction material. Most oem clutches use cork. It doesn't contaminate the oil near as much as the aftermarket kevlar and carbon fiber. Kevlar and carbon fiber are also more abrasive than cork. Doesn't sound like a big deal but think about those particles floating around in your oil. If I was in the market for a new clutch I would go with a FAST clutch.I believe his fibers are also cork.

You run 795 series pistons if your running the standard bores 64mm-66.5mm. If your running cylinders that have been resleeved with big bore sleeves then you run blaster pistons. Blaster pistons are avalable from 66mm to 68mm. Just so you know, I have not ever ported nor claim to know exactly what to do. This is just general advice. Most builders don't port 4mills to run a spacer plate. When you use a plate you gain 0mm at top dead center (like a stock stroke). You gain 4mm at bottom dead center. If you run no spacer plate and a cut head you gain 2mm at tdc, and bdc. That way you can start off by lowering your ports down 2mm. Then figure your current durations out and determine. What you need to do. Just remember that your working with an engine that now has +2mm deck hight. To be honest with you I would have some one port the cylinders. You are leaving a good amount of power on the table by doing it your self.

Sorry my good name means more to me than a couple cheap fast bucks. Those sales are not going to last for ever.

YO dude pics are posted on the other web site. You have to join and sign in to see them.

Looks like the forsale add matches the web site. Sick CUSTOM banshee Billit this billit that. Non Ported 4 mill running naumura pistons. 90+ mph Why hasnt this thing sold?

Ethire guy does a great job. Questions like this start a who is better pissing match. Call each one and see who you like. Customer service is part of the port job. I have a dune ported 4mill and it runs great. Jeff does a good job.

You shouldnt wire a kill switch in to the coil's wiring harness. It can be hard on the CDI. If it is a normally opean switch then you hook in to the black with white stripe, then ground the other end. If it is a normally closed switch then you splice it in to the Red with black stripe wire that goes to the key. Even dyna doenst recomend splicing in to the orange coil wire. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/support/dynatek_faq.aspx#610

What bore were your old cylinders on? The ones that kept leaking?

There really isn't a difference. PWK28 have the flat plate with philips screws. Pwk33's and on up have the screw on carb cap. You can't get keihin pwk28's with a screw on cap. Josh

Are those keihin carbs. If so and they were properly set up foe methanol they cannot be switched back to gasoline. When you set up keihins foe methanol you have to drill the dump tubes out. The dump tubes is the part that the needle slides in to and the main jet screw in to. You can replace them on mikuni carbs but on keihins they are non replaceable.

I think your just getting caught up in the talk. They are both hot dune / drag ports. Just one does it better. Kind of like compairing shearer's and cpi's.

I think mod quad is a pirate company and copied noss's head. Any way. 66mm is kind of the turning point. Try your standard bore dome, check the squish clearance. Big bore domes have the o ring grove a little farther out. That way you get a good seal.They don't have a complete grove. The outside lip is missing. It uses the shell to make the grove. If you go to the general banshee discusion forum. Find the "Techline Coating" thread. I posted pics of some domes that were coated and ran. You can see what I am talking about. They are big bore domes.

http://www.swaintech.com/

A cool head is a nice addition, but since you have the engine tore appart I would have had the cylinders ported. There is no better time, and it is the next biggest HP just as much as going from stock pipes to aftermarket, maybe more. It is a way larger gain than uppping the compression. josh

It doesnt take much to cause them to sieze. My raptor started to have one sieze after it was 3 years old. I put new a arms on when it happend. It could pound it out with a hammer. When I installed my new a arms I made sure to coat the entire bolt with antiseize. When you grease the zerk you not getting any grease on the bolt. There is a long sleeve that runs the entire lenght of the a arm. Your greaseing the sleeve and plastic / rubber bushings.