jbooker82

If your going to buy a bran new crank you might as well go 4 mill. From Jeff at FAST a stock stroke crank is 400 new, 4mill crank is 435. There is added expence of 795 pistons, and cut stroker domes for a cool head.

I dont understand how a 90 deg crank would have a smoother power delivery and build more hp. If it is smoother, more tame wouldnt that feel like a power loss? Just like messing with the flywheel weight. You could put on a heavier flywheel and it would add traction by making for a softer hit.

Yea that is what I would think. Feel like a inline four cylinder only running on 2 cylinders.

You could add water and it wont evaporate, but you will drasticly raise the freezing temp. Especially if your running Engine Ice or any other pre mixed coolant.

I thought with a nikasil cylinger you could wipe down the bore with a type of acid. The acid would remove the aluminum and leave the bore untouched.just remember the cylinders are made of aluminum too so don't get any into the ports. Then once you get al the aluminum off check the nikasil to make sure it doesn't have any pitting. I would also check the bore to make sure it isn't out of round.

If you notice on the new 4 stroke atv's the radiators are mounted down low right in front of the engine. They have front bumpers steering stems, frame tubes and all other kinds of suspension parts in front of them. So it does help to have the scoops. They are not needed when your radiator is mounted right out front like in the Banshee or Raptor. Dirt bikes have them to protect the radiators. You can't just have 2 radiators hanging off the fuel tank like saddle bags. They are designed so if you lay the bike over they don't get crushed. The grills on the front keep branches and stuff from poking a hole in. Of course they are going to be designed to grab as much air as possible.

I guess we will have to wait for the Loco riped me off thread.

I would say you need to try a different gauge then. See if you can barrow a good quality gauge.

Did you ride or coast with the clutch pulled in for a while? That is what usually does it.

What elevation are you at? What compression gauge are you using? Where the ports Chamfered when the cylinders are bored? If you dont chamfer them they will have a sharp edge and scrape the rings.

I run TM Design Works. They are probably the most expensive ones out there. The rear chain slider, or guide has rolers in it so there in as much drag. I think you can get them in blue too.

I tried it then went back to klotz supertechniplate. I just like the klotz better.

The thing with porting a 2 stroke is that when you make the ports larger you change the power delivery. You also need to know the angles of the port as they affect power delivery. With a 2 stroke your not just trying to improve air flow like on a 4 stroke cylinder head. You changing when the air and fuel come in and when the exhaust goes out. It is like the cam shaft of a 4 stroke.

The thing is he could spend his tax return doing all the little bolt on mods or he can port his cylinders. Porting will be a huge step in power compaired to doing all the bolt ons. If I had a tight budget my mods would go in this order. Pipes, Porting (trued and weld crank), Shaved Stock Head.Build the engine solid first, the other stuff bolts on easly later down the road. Pluse it would be a real sleeper.

Your best bet is to take the top end off and send it to the guy that your going to have port the cylinders. Make sure to send the pistons with them. That way they can measure everything to determine if the parts are in spec and what is needed if they are not.

Mine only cost 800-900 bucks because I already had the stuff that a bolt on banshee should have, There is no better time to build a 4mill then when you need to replace a crank. The cost of the build depends on what you already have.

I am a big guy too. I had one on my dune ported 4mill. I had it on there for 1 ride. I didn't like how it felt. It did ref faster but is also fell off the pipe a lot easier. I whish you could get a good quality flywheel that was 16oz or so heavier. That would be awesome for woods riding.

Ethanol is not as corrosive as Methanol. I would think you would be ok letting it set for a weekend riding trip. I would purge it if it is going to sit for a week. You will also need to run a premix that mixes with alachol most premixes dont mix. It is like mixing water and oil.

Yea if you already have the 4mill crank, and assembling the engine deffinatly have the cylinders ported. You might tell the builder what pipes you plan on changing too as well. The pipes just bolt on so they are easly changed later on.

Yep the bottom of the coolant tank goes to the top of the radiator up by the filler neck. The top hose on the rez tank is just a vent. You can put a stub pice of hose on and have it drain down.

You could always mix up a batch at 100:1 for old times sake. It will just help lube the valve train.

My FAST Dune Ported 4 mill is fun to ride.

I would probably go with the Proven's. I dont have any experiance with this style of goggle. I do have the Oakley Crowbar MX Pro Frame's with the black iridium lens. They have the tripple layer foam like the Proven's claim to have. They are super nice and plush. Beats the heack out of the cheaper gogles that are single foam. The last layer that rests on your face is really soft. It almost feels like velvet. Keeping the goggles clean is the biggest part of keeping dirt out of your eyes. You have to wash the foam out other wise dirt builds up and will work its way through the foam. If it gets bad you can always oil the foam up with some air filter oil. That will help seal the dirt out. Acording to Oakley's web page the L frame is 40 bucks and the Provens are 45. WHat are the prices that your buying them at? http://www.oakley.com/category/671

Yea a dune port is a fun engine. A dune port gives up low end in exchange for mid and top end. A drag port gives up all low end and some mid range in exchange for even more top end than the dune port. Porting a 2 stroke is like putting a cam shaft in a 4 stroke engine. The more aggressive you get the less bottom end you have but gain more top end. A dune port is a pretty good balance for a banshee. It has a strong mid range and will rev and pull harder on the top end. Porting is your next biggest jump in HP. Port the cylinders, do the timing plate, and have your stock cylinder head milled. Make sure you talk to Kevin he will steer you in the right direction. He will want to know what kind of fuel you want to run. Pump Premium, or Race Fuel. That way he can shave the head accordingly. You want to shoot for about 150 psi of compression running +4 timing to run pump premium fuel. You shoot for around 185 psi to run straight race fuel. josh

I haven't ever tried to take the ones out of my PWK33's. I have just herd people that have alcohol pwk's say they are non replaceable. That is why it was important to find some one that knows what they are doing. Drill it out to large then your carbs are junk. Or at least the carb body.